AlwaysThinkin

iTrader: (1)

Sorry if this has been asked elsewhere but my search isn't finding the answer.

What parts go on the front shock. My guess is the two large washers and two nuts in one sack belong to the front assembly. Is this correct?

The other sack has rubber gromments, rolled (ends are bent) washers, and 4 nuts. These are for the rear shocks right?

Jeez, the instructions with these are terrible! I hate when they throw a few sketches in a box and tell you they are instructions!

Edit: Also, does anyone have the torque numbers for everything I'm putting back together? I remember someone had a link to correct torque for everything on a f-body, but I don't remember which thread......

hpjunky98

iTrader: (3)

Yes the package with the rolled washers / rubber grommets etc. are for the rear. Each side uses 2 nuts to secure the shocks, just tighten the first one, then hand tighten the second one... thats what i did. I was just searching for the torque specs too but i couldn't find them. If it makes you feel any better, I just made them tight as i thought they should be and have had no issues for the months ive been running them. Not recommended for sure, but it worked...

AlwaysThinkin

iTrader: (1)

Thanks again!

Yeah, I just went ahead and used the large heavy washer on the front but was holding off actually putting it back in the car until I heard something from someone with some knowledge. I'm headed outside now and will give a post when done. (Unless I end up with more questions first!)

hpjunky98

iTrader: (3)

good luck with the fronts. The bolt on top of the shock on the passenger side is often rusted.

AlwaysThinkin

iTrader: (1)

Go figure, mine was exactly the opposite. I started with the passenger side after reading about the rust on that side (prefer doing the worst thing first) and it was practically pristine. The driver side, however, looks like the ones in the write-ups. It's soaking in some pb blaster overnight and I hope it helps.

Otherwise, I'm not sure what to do next. Tried taking a hacksaw to the center post and it just acted like a dog on ice!

If anyone has suggestions......

dmart

iTrader: (3)

I just used a skilsaw with a carbide metal cutting blade and cut the old shock, those damn bolts would NOT come off.

MTN_Z

iTrader: (7)

Yep. Both of the bolts were rusted on mine. Turned a pretty easy job into a damn hard one.

vatechguy3

iTrader: (4)

i just bought two new mounts from strano, and then bought the lower isulator and upper isulator from gm.

tony

LS699TA

get someone to use a pair of vicegrips to hold the bar (piston) that the nut screws on too. you might have to cut that plastic cup thing thats inbetween the spring and the shock, but once you do you can easily stick some pliers through there to get a good hold on the "piston" thing. once tightly gripped, you can easily unscrew that nut.

this is where i had to call in help to hold the strut while i tried to unscrew the nut. much easier with one person holding the strut and the vicegrips(holding the piston) and you on the nut

dmart

iTrader: (3)

I tried this and ended up ripping the metal apart, that nut was NOT coming off...don't be afraid to cut that old crappy shock...the bare metal part not the orange shock body

hpjunky98

iTrader: (3)

I finally uploaded a picture of the rear setup showing the bolt orientation. Dunno if you finished or not but hope it helps someone.

vatechguy3

iTrader: (4)

wow, i've only got 3 or 4 threads showing above the double nuts on the rear konis that i just installed.

maybe i should tighten them some more?!?!

i only have a small amount of deflection in the bushing.

tony

hpjunky98

iTrader: (3)

Haven't had any issues with the way i have it, but you might be fine.