Need THIN Brake Pads
05-19-2008, 08:31 PM
#1
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Need THIN Brake Pads I had to grind a LOT off of my calipers to get my Prostars to fit. I'm pretty sure new brake pads would make the caliper rub on the inside of the wheel but the pads on the car are almost gone.
I know this is a long shot but do any of you know of a pad that is a little thinner than normal when new?
I know this is a long shot but do any of you know of a pad that is a little thinner than normal when new?
05-19-2008, 08:38 PM
#2
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man i had to grind a lot on mine then i put new pads on and had to grind some more
if you dnt wana grind anymore you may have to get a spacer
i have been working on cars for 9yr and im ase l1 cert i have never seen a thin pad like that but im not saying theres not one
if you dnt wana grind anymore you may have to get a spacer
i have been working on cars for 9yr and im ase l1 cert i have never seen a thin pad like that but im not saying theres not one
05-20-2008, 12:20 AM
#3
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Grind the calipers and run a .25 spacer...Aerospace and Strange both offer front and rear kits to eliminate the spacer, but they're pricey. They also state they're for racing applications only.
05-20-2008, 12:29 PM
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I just don't like the idea of running a spacer. I should be between 800-900rwhp with the setup I'm putting together. A lot of stress on the studs. I'm a 22 year old ford tech. I've only been in the field for a couple years and seen a handfull of different name brands of pads. Figured I would ask.
05-20-2008, 12:43 PM
#5
Man I just happen to have a set of Hawk pads that are probably 70% good. I ran into the same problem you did and just wasn't comfortable grinding that far after putting new pads on. When I put the new pads on it locked the wheel up. I went with race brakes and saved these.
If you know someone here in Houston that can pick them up, you can have them.
If you know someone here in Houston that can pick them up, you can have them.
05-20-2008, 01:00 PM
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why would you need thin brake pads when you grind the out side of the caliper that stay in one location and dosnt move. you push the piston in to the the caliper, you dont push the caliper back. this makes no since to me at all.
05-20-2008, 01:07 PM
#7
Put LT1 rear calipers on and call it done 
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05-20-2008, 04:19 PM
#8
I know it may be a bit too late for you since you already purchased your wheels (this is not an I told you so post)...for the others reading this post, our Bogart wheels would not have the issues that the poster is running into. Customers will also have saved ~50lbs of converted mass by using our wheels instead of the prostars. There may be other wheel options but they all are heavier then the prostars...I"d suggest out of any, these are a good economy buy.
To help you out, if you are running spacers as well, you WILL need 3.25" studs to be safe using the prostars. Pads and rotor thickness will vary between brands. Though a bandaid, you could also take the outside pads to a belt sander. The only concern (if money was your reasoning for purchasing the wheels over our designs) is you'll have to replace the pads more often obviously.
You could consider running drag brakes which will solve your problem. LT1 brakes as scoggin would also help though you will still have to grind the fins from the rears and have to run a spacer for the fronts. Do not remove the hardened spring steel piece from those calipers.
Good luck.
To help you out, if you are running spacers as well, you WILL need 3.25" studs to be safe using the prostars. Pads and rotor thickness will vary between brands. Though a bandaid, you could also take the outside pads to a belt sander. The only concern (if money was your reasoning for purchasing the wheels over our designs) is you'll have to replace the pads more often obviously.
You could consider running drag brakes which will solve your problem. LT1 brakes as scoggin would also help though you will still have to grind the fins from the rears and have to run a spacer for the fronts. Do not remove the hardened spring steel piece from those calipers.
Good luck.
05-20-2008, 09:18 PM
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Man I just happen to have a set of Hawk pads that are probably 70% good. I ran into the same problem you did and just wasn't comfortable grinding that far after putting new pads on. When I put the new pads on it locked the wheel up. I went with race brakes and saved these.
If you know someone here in Houston that can pick them up, you can have them.
If you know someone here in Houston that can pick them up, you can have them.
I know it may be a bit too late for you since you already purchased your wheels (this is not an I told you so post)...for the others reading this post, our Bogart wheels would not have the issues that the poster is running into. Customers will also have saved ~50lbs of converted mass by using our wheels instead of the prostars. There may be other wheel options but they all are heavier then the prostars...I"d suggest out of any, these are a good economy buy.
To help you out, if you are running spacers as well, you WILL need 3.25" studs to be safe using the prostars. Pads and rotor thickness will vary between brands. Though a bandaid, you could also take the outside pads to a belt sander. The only concern (if money was your reasoning for purchasing the wheels over our designs) is you'll have to replace the pads more often obviously.
You could consider running drag brakes which will solve your problem. LT1 brakes as scoggin would also help though you will still have to grind the fins from the rears and have to run a spacer for the fronts. Do not remove the hardened spring steel piece from those calipers.
Good luck.
To help you out, if you are running spacers as well, you WILL need 3.25" studs to be safe using the prostars. Pads and rotor thickness will vary between brands. Though a bandaid, you could also take the outside pads to a belt sander. The only concern (if money was your reasoning for purchasing the wheels over our designs) is you'll have to replace the pads more often obviously.
You could consider running drag brakes which will solve your problem. LT1 brakes as scoggin would also help though you will still have to grind the fins from the rears and have to run a spacer for the fronts. Do not remove the hardened spring steel piece from those calipers.
Good luck.
05-20-2008, 10:54 PM
#11
Black,
You can make them work; they are a good economy lightweight wheel. Unfortunately they are not made for your car. They are a one-size fits some wheel. Unlike how we setup our Bogart wheels. You'll have to take the good with the bad I suppose.
When I point out why our wheels have advantages over competitors products between fit, finish, weight advantages etc…some people feel I am putting them down their choices. I am not downplaying other products, there are just better choices in my opinion whereas I show why our Bogart products are worth the money and do have benefits over other drag wheel setups.
Once again, I do wish you luck.
You can make them work; they are a good economy lightweight wheel. Unfortunately they are not made for your car. They are a one-size fits some wheel. Unlike how we setup our Bogart wheels. You'll have to take the good with the bad I suppose.
When I point out why our wheels have advantages over competitors products between fit, finish, weight advantages etc…some people feel I am putting them down their choices. I am not downplaying other products, there are just better choices in my opinion whereas I show why our Bogart products are worth the money and do have benefits over other drag wheel setups.
Once again, I do wish you luck.
05-26-2008, 11:46 AM
#13
You'll still need to grind the fins but it's much easier to fit. The LT1 calipers are heavier and do not have as good braking power and brake fade. You don't re-use your LS1 backing plates, you need LT1 mounts.
05-26-2008, 12:05 PM
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Why dont any ever consider running a rear brake setup off of a Explorer? If you want to run disk that is. They are a good size rotor for the street and wont need grinding. The race setups are just that. That way you can run a wheel for the street. These brakes with a ceramic pad will offer decent stopping power with a drag setup. If you are running an ABS delete like SJM offers,it comes with a porportioning valve to dail in the bias front to rear.
