twitchtwice

iTrader: (12)

My bushing are going out in my rear control arms and bothering the **** out of me. and i figure instead of wasting 40$ on some bushings,so im going to just order some new lower control arms from UMI Performance. If i plan on lowering my car in the future would it be in my best interest to get the adjustable ones or get just the standard?

koolaid_kid

iTrader: (21)

I recommend the single adjustable, rod/poly units. At the very least they allow for a true 4 wheel alignment. And the poly end won't be noisy like so many rod ends can be.

twitchtwice

iTrader: (12)

yea ill probably end up getting these

http://umiperformance.com/2016?category_id=119

instead of buying bushing for 40, ill spend the extra 160 and just do it right.

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

While those are some premium aftermarket arms, bear in mind that it's not necessarily an upgrade, unless:

1. You're really doing some serious racing (either strip, or road course racing).
2. Your stock LCA's are really bent out of whack (very few I've seen are).

Really, I've replaced those stock worn "fluted" bushings with the Moog/1LE "solid" rubber bushings and actually for much of my AX and HPDE, they more than sufficed. I couldn't really tell the difference in performance and/or comfort between them and even double rod-ended aftermarket LCA's (until the rod-ends got worn, which I'll mention below).

With concerns to the rod-ends on those arms, they're definitely premium, but depending on climate and road conditions, they do wear out within 6 months to almost two years and when they do, they'll start to make a weird "baby-rattle" or "tin can filled with marbles" sound. At that point they'll be dangerous to drive on. Their cost will be about 29 USD for each. The poly bushings will also need to be kept greased, otherwise lots of bind will be introduced.

Another thing I should mention with the Poly/rod is that when it comes to adjusting thrust angle, the rod end's will need to be disconnected in order to adjust, which can take more time and a slight bit more headache. This is why I opted for my DIY "double-adjustible" with a modified "Howe" rubber bushing on one end, and a rod-end on the other.

With all that I've mentioned, I do prefer running rod-ends, even with a daily-driver and part-time track vehicle, but I just wanted to type out this experience since "there is no such thing as a free lunch" with mods like these.

94'BLKBRD

iTrader: (76)

Same ones I installed yesterday .....don't forget the relocation brackets

twitchtwice

iTrader: (12)

did you get those because you plan on lowering your car in the future?

94'BLKBRD

iTrader: (76)

They're recommended for lowered cars and stock height cars. Without the relocation brackets new lower crontrol arms are pointless. Unless your old ones are bent or the bushings are gone.

twitchtwice

iTrader: (12)

yeah my bushings are gone. thats why i wanted to get new LCA's so i dont have to worry about buying bushings anymore. im probably going to get strano/koni in the future so it would be in my best interest to get the adjustable ones correct?

94'BLKBRD

iTrader: (76)

Yes, adjustable is the way to go, but you need the relocation brackets to get rid of wheelhop.

I installed the poly/rod adjustable LCA's and the bolt-in relocation brackets Friday. Easy job, and the car launches alot better now. No more wheel hop

twitchtwice

iTrader: (12)

do i have the get the relocation brackets now, or do i get them when i lower the car with the stano springs and put the koni shocks in?

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

Relocation brackets can do more harm to handling than good. Many have lowered vehicles around here that don't use them because it can screw up their rear suspension geometry and really cause for some really whacky handling.

Since you already plan to get Strano springs and Koni's, you ought to give him a call and discuss your goals before doing aftermarket LCA's or even relocations brackets. And FWIW, I believe he's won most of his championships with stock LCA's refitted with the Moog/1LE bushings and no relocation brackets, but if you decide to buy those arms you mention, he's a UMI dealer himself, since he's established a solid business relationship with them.

And FWIW, you'll wear out the rod-ends on the LCA's way before you even wear out 1LE bushings in stock arms. Poly bushings don't last longer either since they not only need to be lubricated, but also suffer from creep, or what's sometimes referred to as "cold-flow" (the poly bushings become stretched and loosened over a period of time and usually need replacing as well). I speak this from complete experience as other's around who do AX and some who do HPDE, and these activities are several times rougher than most people drive on public roads.

cjb

[QUOTE=Foxxtron;9515263]While those are some premium aftermarket arms, bear in mind that it's not necessarily an upgrade...

Well put about LCA but what is ..."DIY "double-adjustible" with a modified "Howe" rubber bushing on one end, and a rod-end on the other" Any picts?

twitchtwice

iTrader: (12)

all good points. but i dont race, drag, or auto x my car. its not even daily driven. does this still happen?

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

Yes. It's inherent in the rod-end and poly bushing design, but if it's rarely driver, then why spend all of that money for practically no noticable improvement in performance and a possible loss of ride quality? Remember, with these mods, "there is no such thing as a free lunch." It's a compromise that can be based upon personal preference, but it should never be considered a complete upgrade with no compromise.

twitchtwice

iTrader: (12)

so the 1le bushing it is then. how much do they run?

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

http://www.jonaadland.com/Z28/Mods/L...minumLCAs.html

This is where is got started, but there's more detail about it over at www.frrax.com.

You'll have to do an exhaustive search for it. Also, if you have apprehensions about using the pre-made T6-6061 arms, then you could opt for some mild steel versions from elsewhere. Just pay attention to the directions, and you can have some decent LCA's, though I still hold the opinion that the Moog/1LE is already quite enough.

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

Depends pretty much on who you get them from. They're usually in stock from most auto parts store, but they're usually sold under the "Moog chassis parts brand", TRW brand, NAPA auto parts brand, and several other, but they're exactly what the 1LE bushings are.

Here's an example of what they look like from another thread:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/842240-fbody-street-suspension-setup-review.html

Scroll through the thread to see Sam Strano's posts as he will comment that he runs them on his car and he'll also mention a price, though I'm not too sure if the price is still the same. He mentions that they're 55 USD, but I'm not too sure if that's for all four or not (I think they are but you ought to call him to be sure).

Here's a link to the Pic with the 1LE up top and the "fluted" old factory bushing at the bottom:

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...lebushings.jpg

doesn't look like much of a difference but it's usually significant enough to improve the handling and rid a lot of wheel hop cases that's inherent with the "fluted" bushings.

twitchtwice

iTrader: (12)

all right, looks like im going to stick with the stock control arms and just get some 1le bushings. thanks for all the help guys.

94'BLKBRD

iTrader: (76)

Found some 1le bushings on ebay...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/4-OEM...spagenameZWD1V

BobDoLe

iTrader: (11)

poly bushings can be a pain in the ***, but i wouldn't have it any other way.
i just keep a grease gun (with hose attachment) in my trunk. if my lca's start making noise, it takes about a minute to get them greased up again... now if only my swaybar mounts had zerk fittings.