How can I tell if brake bleeding is complete?
06-08-2008, 06:54 PM
#1
How can I tell if brake bleeding is complete? Installed new Stainless Steel lines, Hawk HPS pads, and Baer Eradispeed drilled/slotted rotors. I spent about an hour bleeding the four calipers with my father, and was getting clean fluid and no bubbles out of the clear vinyl tubing I was connecting to the bleeder valves. I finally put the car back together this afternoon, and drove it around a little. It seemed to brake alright, but I can still push the brake pedal all the way to the floor, and I don't have a very firm feel in the pedal. Also, the parking brake seems to not engage unless I yank it all the way up. Help?
06-08-2008, 09:04 PM
#3
I have yet to bleed the brakes by myself, however I read you can tap the calipers lightly with a rubber hammer and it will get rid of some of the stuck air bubbles in the calipers. Also when you bleed you should bleed the passenger rear, pass driver, front pass, front driver.
06-08-2008, 09:28 PM
#4
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^^ya do it in that order, not sure about the caliper thing though. When i did my brakes i bled them and had the same issue, so i went out on the road and locked up the ABS then came back and bled them again and that fixed it.
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06-08-2008, 11:09 PM
#9
What are you working on?
The parking brake is not effected by the hydrualics at all. It's a simple drum/shoe controlled by a cable.
I've bled brakes three times in the past year. I always keep the master full and swap parts while fluid drips out. Then open the bleeder and let gravity bleed the brakes. Sometimes I use a mityvac to speed up the process but I never let the master get air in it and I never pump the pedal with the bleeders open.
I wait til theres a steady flow of fluid, close the bleeder and then pump the pedal, and open the bleeder one more time, maybe tap the caliper.
It's worked every time for me. Not only on the last three, they were LS1 camaros, but every vehicle I've ever done, I've done like this.
I've heard if the pedal gets bottomed out it can ruin the piston in the master, but I've never had that problem.
The parking brake is not effected by the hydrualics at all. It's a simple drum/shoe controlled by a cable.
I've bled brakes three times in the past year. I always keep the master full and swap parts while fluid drips out. Then open the bleeder and let gravity bleed the brakes. Sometimes I use a mityvac to speed up the process but I never let the master get air in it and I never pump the pedal with the bleeders open.
I wait til theres a steady flow of fluid, close the bleeder and then pump the pedal, and open the bleeder one more time, maybe tap the caliper.
It's worked every time for me. Not only on the last three, they were LS1 camaros, but every vehicle I've ever done, I've done like this.
I've heard if the pedal gets bottomed out it can ruin the piston in the master, but I've never had that problem.
