zlover129

iTrader: (10)

Alright, this isn't just the normal which one do you guys like the most, im wanting to know which is best for road racing. I would love to buy the unbalanced engineering trq arm but a couple of problems with it...money and a bitch to install. But money is the main issue. So which of the more "main stream" trq arms is the best, and i want a chassis mounted one so that i take some stress off of my tailshaft.

UMI Performance

iTrader: (77)

The problem with the short chassis mounted arms is they can induce brake hop.. excluding the Unbalanced Engineering set-up.

I recommend a standard transmission mounted torque arm #2205 we offer. The longer style arms will help to reduce brake. Here is a link to the item- www.umiperformance.com/2205 Now this item does bolt to the transmission which I don't see being a issue on your set-up. If you do want to remove it from the transmission you can always use a torque arm relocation kit- http://www.umiperformance.com/produc...ategory_id=131

If you have any questions please ask and I am glad to help.

Thank you!
Ryan

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

Are you talking about the decoupled torque arm? I recently looked into this. Seems like under accelleration it acts like a short torque arm and under decel it acts like a long one so that you don't get brake hop.

My racing requires launching and then turning. I'm wondering if this is the best torque arm for my situation.

zlover129

iTrader: (10)

That's exactly what i was looking at from you guys since all the chassis mounted trq arms severely reduce ground clearance and are almost always geared towards drag racing. If i can save for the unbalanced Trq arm it would be great, but again it's hard to justify $800 especially since this isn't a pure track car. You don't think that the tranny mounted trq arm will be an issue? Again i don't drag race and if i do it will probably never be on any kind of radial just really for the hell of it. But i do bang gears, quite often actually.

Shockwave179

iTrader: (7)

Pick up a used LG one.

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

Hello, for a road race application you should use a full length torque arm. The shorter style torque arms work better for a drag race application. We offer two different styles of full length arms, non adjustable and adjustable. I would recommend the adjustable version TA001 and the torque arm relocation bracket. We offer a relocation bracket to fit any transmission/vehicle combination. Here is a link to our page and a couple of pics. If you have any questions please give us a call our tech dept is open MON-FRI 8:30AM-6:00PM EST.

http://www.bmrfabrication.com/F-bodySuspension.htm

UMI Performance

iTrader: (77)

I think the transmission mounted arm would be just fine, the issues with tail shafts happen but are not a every day thing. If the vehicle is not seeing hard launches you will be good, but you can always add a relocation kit to the vehicle at a later date which will mount this torque arm off the transmission.

Let me know if I can help anymore. Thank you!
Ryan

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

I have thought about getting one but I don't know if I need one. I don't have any wheel hop but do have wheel spin. My Firehawk is more about handling. I have strano/koni's at the moment.

I was going to get LCA's but Sam talked me out of it.

I am wanting something that will put more down force on the rear tires.

Thanks.

BMR Tech

iTrader: (9)

The only way to put more down force on the rear tires is with control arm relocation brackets. The relocation brackets change what is called anti squat in the car which directly correlates with down force applied to the rear tires.

00 Trans Ram

iTrader: (5)

Please take another look at the UE de-coupled arm. I know it's expensive, but it's worth it. I contacted Jason (at UE) about it a couple years ago, and deicided that it was just too much. So, I bought the BMR non-adjustable TA. It worked fine (in fact, it held up to a lot of abuse). However, I eventually broke the tailshaft of my transmission (there's another post here with my pics in it). So, after spending that money on the BMR bar, I had to get a UE arm anyway. Sure, I could have gotten the remote mount, but brake hop was what destroyed my stock mount, and a remote mount won't help that much.

If you absolutely can't get the UE arm, then at least get a mount that takes the arm off the tranny tailshaft. I got lucky, and it just broke the mounting boss off the tailshaft, and didn't break the seal or anything. But, it could've gone the other way easily.

BTW, do you have brake hop as a problem?

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Without too much debate, I'll just say I use a full length one on my car--and I win autocrosses with it even over cars with fancy-dancy things like decoupling ones. In fact I even ran a decoupling one for a while, and then took it off.

If you want the TA off the tranny, that's simply done with a TA Relocation bracket. And FWIW, no TA can guarantee you no brake hop. In fact I got brake hop with a Herb Adams arm, and while driving two cars with UE arms. Not any better or worse than any other setup can be. Solid axles are prone to brake hop, and it's not something a TA can stop. It can help, but can't stop it. Witness the fact last year @ Watkins Glen both Steward and Gordon (Jeff) brake hopped into turn 1 and spun out of the lead. And Cup cars don't have torque arms, decoupled or otherwise.

I have next to no brake hop issues with my car, using a standard length, still tranny mounted TA. It can happen from time to time, but is only a flutter and doesn't try and spin the car like it did stock.

And keep in mind brake hop is influenced by many things other than TA's. The ABS, shocks, unsprung weight, springs, LCA bushings/arms.... just to name a few.

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

In my case, I need to launch on a crappy road surface against a car beside me and beat him in 1 lap around a short 1/3 mile banked oval track. We also have a 100 treadwear tire restriction... I have Nitto 555r's which are probably the optimal tire

How much would a decoupled torque arm really benefit me?

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Good question. I can't answer it. I have seen cars with long TA's outlaunch short TA cars. I'm not sure that's a make or break thing.

00 Trans Ram

iTrader: (5)

Oh - I'd like to second Sam. I've got a de-coupled unit. It's made my brake hop MUCH more manageable. But, I still get it about 6-7 times per race. I can feel it coming on, so I can let up on the brakes just a tad. But, there is no "fix-it-all".

Also, one other thing. Something that works on my car, or Sam's car, may not work on yours. I don't know if it's build tolerances, driving styles, or some mechanical gremlins - but no one seems to have the same problems, much less the same solution.