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new suspension, what to adjust first?

Old 07-17-2008, 12:40 PM
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Default new suspension, what to adjust first?

okay, i have new shocks, strano springs, panhard bar, lca's, torque arm, etc. i am putting all of this stuff on at the same time. in what order do i go about making adjustments? all of these parts are adjustable and i didn't know what i needed to adjust first, second, third, etc.
Old 07-18-2008, 05:56 PM
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What kind of shocks did you get?

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Old 07-18-2008, 06:21 PM
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I would get the shocks and springs in first, then get the LCAs adjusted, and get the rear axle "square" in the car. Then I'd adjust the PHB, and get the rear axle "centered" in the car. Next would be the torque arm, and getting the pinion angle correct. Then drive the car a little, let the suspension "settle in" and get the front end aligned.



BTW, how many miles on the car? Are the ball joints and front control arm bushings OK? If not, now would be a good time to get everything 100%, and you'll be good for a long time....
Old 07-19-2008, 12:28 AM
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i just got agx shocks. i realize they aren't the best, but they will do what i need.

how do you know when the axle is square and centered? i understand that it needs to be done but i am not sure the best way to go about doing it....

the car has 70K miles on it. i am getting new upper ball joints. i didn't touch the lower a-arms or the tie rods. they seem to be ok but i will inspect them closer to make sure.
Old 07-19-2008, 05:44 AM
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Adjust the shocks 1st, then after a little driving adj.the pinion angle 2nd, panhard bar 3rd, and 4th the control arms; only if needed on 2,3,4.
Old 07-19-2008, 07:30 AM
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Originally Posted by cals400ex
....how do you know when the axle is square and centered? i understand that it needs to be done but i am not sure the best way to go about doing it....

the car has 70K miles on it. i am getting new upper ball joints. i didn't touch the lower a-arms or the tie rods. they seem to be ok but i will inspect them closer to make sure.
For a baseline, I would adjust the LCAs to the length of the original arms. Set one of your OE arms on the floor, with the bolts through it, and set the new ones on top. Adjust the length of the new ones to slip over the bolts of the old ones. It may not be the best method, but a lot of people then compare the distance between the tire tread and the front of the rear wheel opening, and equalizing them on each side. A more accurate way is to get the car on a GOOD wheel alignment rack, and use the readouts from the alignment heads. This will get you "square".

For centering, get either two plumb bobs with about 12-14 inches of line on them, or get two pieces of fishing line that long, and tie a couple of big hex nuts on one end of each line (Poor boy plumb bob). Using masking tape to secure them, place the plumb bobs down the rear fenders, centering the line over the center of the wheels. Then measure from the line inward, to the hub caps on your wheels. Do this on both sides, and if necessary, adjust the PHB until both sides are equal. Then you're "centered". If, by chance, you know a GOOD front end man, and he's willing to take the time, this can also be done on the alignment rack....
Old 07-19-2008, 11:25 AM
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I agree, except for the order. I would do the shocks first, the PHB second, and then the control arms. I would want my rear centered left to right (PHB), and then get a 4 wheel alignment (adjusting the control arms), knowing that it is already trued left to right. The torque arm is independent, since it is mainly used to adjust the pinion angle. And when adjusting things, drive it a bit to allow the suspension to settle, as suggested. Then check again, things may change slighty.
JMHO.


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