BMR K-member broke
07-28-2008, 02:08 PM
#1
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BMR K-member broke - and shade-tree fix Figured it was a matter of when, not if, but damn... backed
into my driveway, heard a "bang!" and now the car will barely
move in reverse, straight ahead is OK enough to get it up on
the ramps.
Looks like the welds are tough but the base metallurgy is
McFukt after welding. Also can see that most of the crack, had
been done for some time (judging by the rust) and the swale
edge bump just finished the job. Handling had felt a little
twitchy recently. Lucky I didn't hit a bump 40 miles from home,
huh?
Going to try and fix it myself, let y'alls know how that goes.
At least it's a clean break to line things back up.
into my driveway, heard a "bang!" and now the car will barely
move in reverse, straight ahead is OK enough to get it up on
the ramps.
Looks like the welds are tough but the base metallurgy is
McFukt after welding. Also can see that most of the crack, had
been done for some time (judging by the rust) and the swale
edge bump just finished the job. Handling had felt a little
twitchy recently. Lucky I didn't hit a bump 40 miles from home,
huh?
Going to try and fix it myself, let y'alls know how that goes.
At least it's a clean break to line things back up.
Last edited by jimmyblue; 08-03-2008 at 11:40 AM.
07-28-2008, 02:15 PM
#2
Wow how long has it been in your car? Glad I'm not planning on ordering one, I will be getting a K member but not from BMR
I personally wouldn't fix a part like that, but it might be ok if you put some gussets in there too.
I personally wouldn't fix a part like that, but it might be ok if you put some gussets in there too.
07-28-2008, 02:52 PM
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Figured it was a matter of when, not if, but damn... backed
into my driveway, heard a "bang!" and now the car will barely
move in reverse, straight ahead is OK enough to get it up on
the ramps.
Looks like the welds are tough but the base metallurgy is
McFukt after welding. Also can see that most of the crack, had
been done for some time (judging by the rust) and the swale
edge bump just finished the job. Handling had felt a little
twitchy recently. Lucky I didn't hit a bump 40 miles from home,
huh?
Going to try and fix it myself, let y'alls know how that goes.
At least it's a clean break to line things back up.
into my driveway, heard a "bang!" and now the car will barely
move in reverse, straight ahead is OK enough to get it up on
the ramps.
Looks like the welds are tough but the base metallurgy is
McFukt after welding. Also can see that most of the crack, had
been done for some time (judging by the rust) and the swale
edge bump just finished the job. Handling had felt a little
twitchy recently. Lucky I didn't hit a bump 40 miles from home,
huh?
Going to try and fix it myself, let y'alls know how that goes.
At least it's a clean break to line things back up.
Last edited by BMR Tech; 07-28-2008 at 03:12 PM.
07-28-2008, 03:20 PM
#4
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It's been on there since about 2003, it's the one that was said
to be street duty at the time though that claim went away later.
Always babied it over bumps etc.
I've been keeping an eye on it when undercar and the last time it
all looked good (oil change, maybe 6 months ago?).
I'm thinking a couple of plates and some 3/4" threaded rod through
the tube ought to keep things together, and weld on some L-straps
for luck. Probably add a couple pounds of metal and a half a pint of
ugly but I can get it back together I think.
It might help you (BMR) to point out whatever improvements you've
made, The "T" weld always looked like a weak point to me though
I expected the weld to lift, not to take a chunk of the base with it.
I got 4-5 years of service out of a hot rod part, I figure that's just
how the game goes.
to be street duty at the time though that claim went away later.
Always babied it over bumps etc.
I've been keeping an eye on it when undercar and the last time it
all looked good (oil change, maybe 6 months ago?).
I'm thinking a couple of plates and some 3/4" threaded rod through
the tube ought to keep things together, and weld on some L-straps
for luck. Probably add a couple pounds of metal and a half a pint of
ugly but I can get it back together I think.
It might help you (BMR) to point out whatever improvements you've
made, The "T" weld always looked like a weak point to me though
I expected the weld to lift, not to take a chunk of the base with it.
I got 4-5 years of service out of a hot rod part, I figure that's just
how the game goes.
07-28-2008, 03:52 PM
#5
Maybe I should keep my mouth shut, BUT........ Possibly a replacement part, at "wholesale", would go a LONG way toward good customer relations, as well as keeping your stellar reputation intact.....
Jimmy, I absolutely have to admire your attitude...."I got 4-5 years out of a hot rod part..."
Jimmy, I absolutely have to admire your attitude...."I got 4-5 years out of a hot rod part..."
07-28-2008, 06:21 PM
#6
I'm not here to comment or judge any of the involved parties, but fixing that seems unwise IMO. It has already shown to be a poor design, and whatever fix you do seems like it will either a) fail again or b) fail some where else.
The consequences of failure are too high to risk running this piece anymore (what if it had failed at speed).
The consequences of failure are too high to risk running this piece anymore (what if it had failed at speed).
07-28-2008, 07:08 PM
#7
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All the failures I've seen, are at that point (or its opposite side).
I'm pretty confident I can fix that one, even with my welding skills.
Just more metal and some redundancy.
Have you (or anybody out there) seen failures on this design at
other points? I'm kind of interested in saving it, since the swap
was not something I'd repeat for fun.
I'm pretty confident I can fix that one, even with my welding skills.
Just more metal and some redundancy.
Have you (or anybody out there) seen failures on this design at
other points? I'm kind of interested in saving it, since the swap
was not something I'd repeat for fun.
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07-28-2008, 07:15 PM
#8
In before the swingers ...
Pick one ...
You must've done something to cause that
There are millions of them out there. A single failure is expected
I have one, no issues, so there is no problem /thread
Makes great parts, wouldn't hesitate to buy again
Race parts don't belong on a street car. not designed for 70 mph and an occasional speed bump
didn't you ever change the oil?
Pick one ...
You must've done something to cause that
There are millions of them out there. A single failure is expected
I have one, no issues, so there is no problem /thread
Makes great parts, wouldn't hesitate to buy again
Race parts don't belong on a street car. not designed for 70 mph and an occasional speed bump
didn't you ever change the oil?
07-30-2008, 11:43 AM
#10
I believe Jimmy is voicing his concerns well. I commend him. Quite often I’ve seen people post on boards in attempt to strong-arm a manufacture/vendor. Road racing or drag racing places high stress on components. Close to 5 years is quite a bit of life out of any street/strip duty component. Many of these aftermarket pieces are designed for weight reduction to increase racing performance.
BMR mentioned they've implemented changes just as any manufacture can/does do as they progress in time. I commend them as well for seeing an area of opportunity and implementing changes needed to build a more durable component. BMR has mentioned they are willing to help him. This does not mean that for the life of a product a consumer should be compensated for new free replacement pieces. If a discount is given for inconveniences...that's a plus but would be at the discretion of the manufacture.
The above mentioned is no different from GM nor other manufacture...where' you're probably spending tens of thousands of dollars on the car. This is why there are warranty statements and periods. This safeguards the consumer during this time but does not last forever. Some give opportunity for purchasing extended warranties for free replacement or repairs. How many OEM rear-ends are replaced or even given at reduced rates when they break and are past a warranty period?
Many competent welders can repair the piece rather easily. Gussets could help as well.
BMR mentioned they've implemented changes just as any manufacture can/does do as they progress in time. I commend them as well for seeing an area of opportunity and implementing changes needed to build a more durable component. BMR has mentioned they are willing to help him. This does not mean that for the life of a product a consumer should be compensated for new free replacement pieces. If a discount is given for inconveniences...that's a plus but would be at the discretion of the manufacture.
The above mentioned is no different from GM nor other manufacture...where' you're probably spending tens of thousands of dollars on the car. This is why there are warranty statements and periods. This safeguards the consumer during this time but does not last forever. Some give opportunity for purchasing extended warranties for free replacement or repairs. How many OEM rear-ends are replaced or even given at reduced rates when they break and are past a warranty period?
Many competent welders can repair the piece rather easily. Gussets could help as well.
07-31-2008, 04:46 PM
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get the UMI one w/ the extra bracing for road-racing.
From my understanding, the BMR products are great for drag only... there seems to have been many PHR + K-member failure on street or roadracing.
:dunno: good luck.
Hope there is no damage to the engine.
From my understanding, the BMR products are great for drag only... there seems to have been many PHR + K-member failure on street or roadracing.
:dunno: good luck.
Hope there is no damage to the engine.
08-02-2008, 08:07 PM
#14
we use BMR in our customers cars our personal cars (especially mine) which is a true driven street car with some track duty,(all BMR) we have never had any k frame issues
and 5 years out of a race/street part is really good
clean that area up reweld it add a little to it and move on
08-03-2008, 10:51 AM
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Got done with the welding today, I have spent a couple of
evenings at it.
The primary fix was to use some 4x4x1/4" angle to make a
pair of clamshell braces. I cut them to 3" lengths and bobbed
one end to 2-1/2" high. This fit snug inside the "box" where
the break was. I marked & drilled holes for threaded rod, and
for a secondary crossbar to bolt up. I made the crossbar out
1" box stock with some slugs of 1/4" plate in there to tap
for standard bolts.
I used a ball burr to broach holes in the ends of the tube /
box face for the threaded rod. The rod was able to be inserted
since the tube was cocked down at an angle. The brackets slip
over the ends and I used them plus a bottle jack & crowbar to
line back up the tube to the break-collar on the box, and used
the threaded rod to draw it all back together tight.
Used the wire-gun to tack the brackets to the inside of the
box and ran one long bead along the bracket & tube to get
it connected up well. I put a bead where I could reach on the
break collar but it's really the brackets, rod and long bead that
hold it all together now.
Bolted up the secondary crossbar, and it's done. I am going to
let my buddy who's a better welder look it over and maybe
beef it up some more with the real MIG but it seems plenty solid
to me.
I estimate about 5lb of metal went back onto the nose.
evenings at it.
The primary fix was to use some 4x4x1/4" angle to make a
pair of clamshell braces. I cut them to 3" lengths and bobbed
one end to 2-1/2" high. This fit snug inside the "box" where
the break was. I marked & drilled holes for threaded rod, and
for a secondary crossbar to bolt up. I made the crossbar out
1" box stock with some slugs of 1/4" plate in there to tap
for standard bolts.
I used a ball burr to broach holes in the ends of the tube /
box face for the threaded rod. The rod was able to be inserted
since the tube was cocked down at an angle. The brackets slip
over the ends and I used them plus a bottle jack & crowbar to
line back up the tube to the break-collar on the box, and used
the threaded rod to draw it all back together tight.
Used the wire-gun to tack the brackets to the inside of the
box and ran one long bead along the bracket & tube to get
it connected up well. I put a bead where I could reach on the
break collar but it's really the brackets, rod and long bead that
hold it all together now.
Bolted up the secondary crossbar, and it's done. I am going to
let my buddy who's a better welder look it over and maybe
beef it up some more with the real MIG but it seems plenty solid
to me.
I estimate about 5lb of metal went back onto the nose.
08-03-2008, 06:33 PM
#19
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I know my welding is ugly at best, which is why the
5/8" threaded rod down the middle. Even if I used
peanut butter for welding, the front end would still
be held together with more steel cross-section
than the original, and virgin (not heat affected)
steel at that.
It does feel a lot more solid up front, now. Ever
since the K swap the front was a little more "floppy"
than with the stock setup. I chalk the improvement
up to the second crossbar.
Another plus, my steering wheel doesn't point to
2 o'clock anymore when I'm going straight. I got
my alignment back
Too bad the last few months of driving crooked
ate the remaining tread off my expensive tires
5/8" threaded rod down the middle. Even if I used
peanut butter for welding, the front end would still
be held together with more steel cross-section
than the original, and virgin (not heat affected)
steel at that.
It does feel a lot more solid up front, now. Ever
since the K swap the front was a little more "floppy"
than with the stock setup. I chalk the improvement
up to the second crossbar.
Another plus, my steering wheel doesn't point to
2 o'clock anymore when I'm going straight. I got
my alignment back
Too bad the last few months of driving crooked
ate the remaining tread off my expensive tires