Lca popping/clunking
08-12-2008, 02:48 PM
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Lca popping/clunking Hey guys, installed subframes,Lca`s and relo. brackets beginning of the year. last couple trips out ive noticed a popping/clunking sound. I can actually feel the popping when I manually compress the suspension. I have diagnosed it to the right side LCA. Tore it apart and re-assembled, regreased, retorqued and damn thing still doing it. any tips or info would be great.
08-12-2008, 11:39 PM
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Yes I sure did, checked it all. after I unbolted the shock (thought the shock was bad) I had the ol lady compress the susepnsion while I was under car, 10 minutes later as I had my hand on the control arm to pull myself to the back of car I could feel the pop thru the control arm itself. I unbolted the control arm from front hole and the popping stopped. Re-lubed sides before I reinstalled with the supplied lube, re-torqued the bolt and damn thing still popping. any Ideas?
08-13-2008, 12:00 AM
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is the weight of the car sitting on the rear end or are the jack stands sitting only under the frame.
the difference is it the jack stands are only under the frame and not under the rear end only... that will cause binding in the bushings.
I suggest you jack your car up, take the rear wheels off, put the jack stands under the rear end housing(make sure its still high enough to work on), lower the rear end on the jack stands so that the suspension is loaded(make sure the rear suspension is compressed), then tighten all the bolts to torque spec, and use loctite.
I bet you won't have any more problems
the difference is it the jack stands are only under the frame and not under the rear end only... that will cause binding in the bushings.
I suggest you jack your car up, take the rear wheels off, put the jack stands under the rear end housing(make sure its still high enough to work on), lower the rear end on the jack stands so that the suspension is loaded(make sure the rear suspension is compressed), then tighten all the bolts to torque spec, and use loctite.
I bet you won't have any more problems
08-13-2008, 08:31 PM
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is the weight of the car sitting on the rear end or are the jack stands sitting only under the frame.
the difference is it the jack stands are only under the frame and not under the rear end only... that will cause binding in the bushings.
I suggest you jack your car up, take the rear wheels off, put the jack stands under the rear end housing(make sure its still high enough to work on), lower the rear end on the jack stands so that the suspension is loaded(make sure the rear suspension is compressed), then tighten all the bolts to torque spec, and use loctite.
I bet you won't have any more problems
the difference is it the jack stands are only under the frame and not under the rear end only... that will cause binding in the bushings.
I suggest you jack your car up, take the rear wheels off, put the jack stands under the rear end housing(make sure its still high enough to work on), lower the rear end on the jack stands so that the suspension is loaded(make sure the rear suspension is compressed), then tighten all the bolts to torque spec, and use loctite.
I bet you won't have any more problems
08-13-2008, 11:19 PM
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taking the wheels off only makes it easier. so the jack stands are on the ground, the rear end housing is sitting on the jack stands, and the rest of the car is sitting down on the rear end and not being held up? If that's the case then I don't know what to say. One of them could be faulty. Did you buy them new or used?
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08-14-2008, 07:51 AM
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08-14-2008, 03:53 PM
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taking the wheels off only makes it easier. so the jack stands are on the ground, the rear end housing is sitting on the jack stands, and the rest of the car is sitting down on the rear end and not being held up? If that's the case then I don't know what to say. One of them could be faulty. Did you buy them new or used?
08-14-2008, 10:21 PM
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ill try that. Its odd that this happened out of the blue and only on one side. all the suspension has been on for awhile now. Im just gonna re-torque everything. the thing that gets me, with right LCA in place and tight, if you grab the control arm you can actually feel the pop/clunk. when control is off at the front mount you feel or hear nothing.
08-17-2008, 01:04 PM
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http://www.umiperformance.com/2016?category_id=119 these are the ones I bought, poly/rod. Lubed the ends up with suggested Lube before installation, greased zerks before car touched ground. Be nice if UMI would answer pms.
08-17-2008, 01:34 PM
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if you do it to there torq specs it will pop! Rod ends have been know to pop! Thats why im going to get the adjustable ones with polly ends on both sides 
UMI $161.00 at byunspeed has them for $169.00 but im sure www.ws6store.com with match it im sure.
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...1683e19895d5ff
Last edited by SIC LSX; 08-17-2008 at 01:46 PM.
08-17-2008, 02:02 PM
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if you do it to there torq specs it will pop! Rod ends have been know to pop! Thats why im going to get the adjustable ones with polly ends on both sides UMI $161.00 at byunspeed has them for $169.00 but im sure www.ws6store.com with match it im sure.
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...1683e19895d5ff
08-17-2008, 06:33 PM
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When you are under the car moving the LCAs. What is moving? The Whole rod end? The bearing in the race? or the bushings on either side of the bearing? If the later try some washers on both sides to remove the slop of the bushings. Worked for me on some Spohns poly/rodend I had. And a set of SLPs LCAs. Did this on the axle and at the subframe connector. And as for rodend lube-WD-40 or any water displacing spray lube will work. And also check the jamnut, make sure its tightend against the LCA and not the rodend.