zz4camaro1980

I recently installed a Tunnel Mounted UMI Torque Arm after ripping the clamshell bolt right out of the tailshaft. With everyhting installed, torqued and pinion angle set correctly this torque arm makes just as much noise as the car did when the stock torque arm was banging into the floor. Everytime I shift/downshift/hit a bump/jump on the throttle the entire car clunks/bangs (can feel it through the seat). After spending $400+ on this torque arm I certainly dont want to have to save up another $500 for a stock length torque arm and relocation bracket.

Please let me know if anyone has found a solution to this!

And before anyone says it, ive tried a search and from what ive seen im S.O.L. with this torque arm.

UMI Performance

iTrader: (77)

I think after you speak with our technical guy you will not be SOL... we have very good luck with this item.. sounds like it just needs some tweaking.

I replied to your PM with the information needed to contract us.

Thank you,
Ryan

zz4camaro1980

Thanks for the quick reply!

Could reusing the stock bolts (without washers) be creating the problem? Any chance the Rear Torque Arm Hardware Kit will help?

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

I had to reset the PA many times b4 I was happy with it. Now its very smooth and the floor board banging is all but gone. What angle finder are you using and how did you figure your angle? It will never be as quiet as stock since its mounted to the floor but unless im wot I dont get anybanging on the floorboards now and only a small amount sometimes at wot.

zz4camaro1980

not sure what kind of angle finder, my roomate got it when he bought his torque arm.

put the car on a frame machine (keep susp. loaded and made sure it was level) then added the angle on the driveshaft and the angle of the bottom of the torque arm mount.

as Ryan said, I have the tech contact at UMI... I will try to get off of work early some day this week and give them a call when im under the car.

EDIT: Does anyone have an 'ideal' pinion angle for these (directions say 0- -3)

flintwrench69

iTrader: (11)

I just installed mine last week & it doesnt make much noise at all. Actually not much different than stock. I did get the 3pt SFCs so its all connected but sounds like maybe your pinion angle needs more adjusting. I set mine at -2 deg. You dont want to set it at 0 deg, it will eat your u-joints if you do.

ynkssws6

iTrader: (1)

I'm strongly considering this torque arm in chromoloy, but I have so many questions. Mods are in sig. Would this set up be ideal or a full length with a rellocation kit work better? Sorry for the hijack but this post got me worried for a second.

flintwrench69

iTrader: (11)

I got the tunnel mounted mainly cuz it comes with a driveshaft loop & its $120 cheaper than getting the full length. Thats comparing prices with UMI stuff & adjustable torque arm. They say a full length is better for handling & the shorter is better for drag racing.

flintwrench69

iTrader: (11)

I dont get none of what youre speaking of with mine.

ynkssws6

iTrader: (1)

Flint, thanks for the input. The problem is I have QTP's and their y-pipe so the DSL won't even work for that merge.

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

You need to subtract the rear ta mount angle from the Ds angle to get the right measurement, NOT ADD THEM