high mph braking=tail out
09-05-2008, 03:03 PM
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high mph braking=tail out Well I got in a roll race with some idiot in a bmw a couple days ago. I beat him pretty badly, and as soon as i shut down i nailed the brakes pretty hard at 110-120. To my suprise the rear end of my car flicked out and i had to make a bit of effort to correct it.
I was just reading a thread in here about the new watts link available for our cars, and i thought that maby what had caused the slide was that when the weight of the car transitioned forward, pulling the nose down and the rear end up, my PHB started changing geometry enough that at such high speeds it kicked out the rear end.
Could this be it or does this involve too many variables to be such a simple solution?
I was just reading a thread in here about the new watts link available for our cars, and i thought that maby what had caused the slide was that when the weight of the car transitioned forward, pulling the nose down and the rear end up, my PHB started changing geometry enough that at such high speeds it kicked out the rear end.
Could this be it or does this involve too many variables to be such a simple solution?
09-05-2008, 03:31 PM
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its not a good idea to slam the brakes right when ur off the throttle. its not surprising how the rear end wanted to wonder around, the sudden change in suspension load made it do that.
09-05-2008, 11:27 PM
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Yea, your not alone with the tail kicking out after braking hard. When I first got my car, I took one of my friends out, hit about 130 when up a head, someone was pulling out of there driveway. Got on the brakes hard, and scared the **** out of my friend. I still get reminded about that everytime I see him.
09-06-2008, 09:48 AM
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does anyone think the watts link could be a possible solution to this problem? It seems to me like maby the PHB flicks the rear end out when the rear suspension decompresses.
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09-06-2008, 03:13 PM
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If the PHR is in good working order, it is not the cause of your symptom, therefore just installing a Watt's link will not solve the issue for you. This issue could be related to rear rebound damping vs spring rate, front bump damping vs. spring rate, rear brake bias, alignment, etc...
Please list out all your suspension and brake mods, and lets see if we can help you with set up.
Please list out all your suspension and brake mods, and lets see if we can help you with set up.
09-06-2008, 04:26 PM
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haha ok, unfortunately this is going to be a bit vague as the 1st of 3rd owners was the one to do the suspension work.
Its supposedly got an "SLP stage 1 kit" which i could not find any info on. The kit should compose of lowered eibachs, SLP spec bilsteins, and a front sway. On top of that its also got SCFs and solid motor mounts. For brakes its stock but very fresh rotors and pads with duracrap (please dont hate me...) calipers. I think thats it, the cars rolling on 18" C6 Z06 rims with 275s that are just about toast.
Its supposedly got an "SLP stage 1 kit" which i could not find any info on. The kit should compose of lowered eibachs, SLP spec bilsteins, and a front sway. On top of that its also got SCFs and solid motor mounts. For brakes its stock but very fresh rotors and pads with duracrap (please dont hate me...) calipers. I think thats it, the cars rolling on 18" C6 Z06 rims with 275s that are just about toast.
09-06-2008, 05:07 PM
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How many miles are on the car? More importantly, can you guess how many miles might be on the stage 1 kit. If the components are in good working order than I doubt it's these parts, I think we should focus on the brakes:
Do you know what pads are in the front and rear? The calipers, do you mean to say that you are running re-mans from autozone? These cars have too much rear brake from the factory, so I wonder if the balance has been affected the wrong way...
One other thing that needs to be looked at: Check for play in the front end. Raise the front off the ground then try to rock the wheel in and out at the 12:00 and 6:00 position. Repeat this check at the 9:00 and 3:00 position.
Do you know what pads are in the front and rear? The calipers, do you mean to say that you are running re-mans from autozone? These cars have too much rear brake from the factory, so I wonder if the balance has been affected the wrong way...
One other thing that needs to be looked at: Check for play in the front end. Raise the front off the ground then try to rock the wheel in and out at the 12:00 and 6:00 position. Repeat this check at the 9:00 and 3:00 position.
09-06-2008, 05:59 PM
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160,000 miles on the car, around 80,000 on the SLP kit but bushings and shocks were replaced at some point in between there.
Im not totally sure what pads are front and rear but i think they might be oem.
When you say these cars have too much rear brake (bias i assume) what would this lead to and how severe is the problem?
Im not totally sure what pads are front and rear but i think they might be oem.
When you say these cars have too much rear brake (bias i assume) what would this lead to and how severe is the problem?
09-06-2008, 06:10 PM
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Well, when on a road course or an autocross course, too much rear bias usually causes some real bad axle tramp under hard breaking. It could also cause the rear to come loose at high speeds, just like what happened to you.
I tried a set of manufactured calipers on the front of my car and it turned out they were defective. I couldn't generate enough clamping force on the rotors, so I couldn't get the car to decelerate quick enough when entering turns. I but my stock calipers back on and the issue went away. Therefore I never recommend re-mans anymore.
With such high millage on the car, I would really recommend inspecting all your suspension bushings and ball joints for wear before spending any money on new parts.
I tried a set of manufactured calipers on the front of my car and it turned out they were defective. I couldn't generate enough clamping force on the rotors, so I couldn't get the car to decelerate quick enough when entering turns. I but my stock calipers back on and the issue went away. Therefore I never recommend re-mans anymore.
With such high millage on the car, I would really recommend inspecting all your suspension bushings and ball joints for wear before spending any money on new parts.
