fantastixvoyage

Hey guys need some input. Got a full suspension package planned for the winter but looking for input on what to do to get the most out of an upcoming (and my first) track day on a road course.

I have a '99 Z28 with a totally stock suspension with 60k miles that quite honestly handles like total crap. Anyways looking for ways to tighten up the body roll so I can at least get the most out of the day. I am on a budget as this is just for the one day and the final street days before the car gets put up for the winter.

Need input on reasonable parts as well as maintenance items (what wears most on these cars?)

Here are my thoughts right now:

Sway bars with new bushings
Alignment
Replace rear brakes (fronts done)
Bleed brakes
Bleed clutch (fresh LS7)


Any other thoughts on best bang for the buck/time???? (no strano or konis - those are winter items )

hpjunky98

iTrader: (3)

If Konis arn't an option before the race...

Grippy (but not full race) Tires / Bleed Brakes / Alignment / Poly Bushings (everything you can see... motor mounts would be good, but would be very time consuming) / Front Bar

redbadss

iTrader: (4)

i would add some subframe connectors, they were an immediate improvement in handling to my brothers t/a.

fantastixvoyage

thanks for the input! Was just going over the car today and totally forgot about the worn nitto drag radials in the back. Possible they have weak sidewalls and that is leading to some of the sloppiness? I'm hoping to pick up a track set of wheels/tires for the rear before track day.

Car did come equipped with subframe connectors but I will be doing adjustable LCAs and a hollow front sway bar.

Any other input large or small is appreciated. I not only want the car to come back in one piece but I want to enjoy the day as well.

Killer_Bluebird

iTrader: (23)

Where are you taking it to for the trackday?

What you have on your list is good. Are the brakes in the front Hawk HP+? I would say that is the minimum for a trackday. The rears you can put crappy raybestos or something like that, as a gripy pad could induce some brake hop on hard braking. Maybe tires as mentioned before. But I would not worry about mods. Seat time is the best mod. You are not going to be setting any track records on your first out. You'll be mostly just learning the track in the am and then getting comfortable in the afternoon. If you can ride with other more experienced guys so you can see how they approach the track and get the feel for it.

fantastixvoyage

Waterford hills.

I agree experience is key. I'm actually doing two sundays now, first I think is a private rental and there are staff available to assist in ride-alongs which would be handy as the track will be new to me. I'm not looking to set any records (not this year anyways...) but I do want to get the most out of the days. The car is absolutely sloppy on highway ramps, etc. Car was street raced alot so I will be going thru it this weekend to make sure nothing was done in the name of staight line performance at a cost to handling.

Big thing now is tires. Anyone know if the Nitto drag radials are a waste on a road course? They do act sticky but if the sidewalls can't hold up I'd rather just put on some standard radials.

Looks like I'll have a UMI torque arm and LCAs plus a 35mm sway bar. I'll have to look into hawk pads as they are jus the std. pads now. I think they are the same front to back so I'll move them to the rear (under 50miles on 'em).

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?showtopic=12012

Good info here from those who have traveled this exact road.

Good luck and have fun.

A word of caution ... don't go mod-crazy till you really can diagnose what your car is doing. Different is not always better and the butt-o-meter is not an accurate measuring device.

kmspruill242

Flush any and all fluid. Tires area a HUGE thing. It's ok if the car leans right now. It would just help if it also sticks. But on any car I've roadraced if allways driven it stock first (with good tires and brake pads) than bushings, braces, sways, shocks, springs. It helps to do it in that order and not all at once.

Just bring some extra front rotors, you are going to chew up either rotors or pads. Just get some plain rotors from any autoparts store. DO NOT!!! waste your money with those fancy drilled and slotted crap.

Have fun and work on tightening that nut behind the wheel....

Killer_Bluebird

iTrader: (23)

That is a really fun track. But it is hard on the brakes. When I made the trip down I had stock brake pads too by the 4 or 5 lap they where really soft and I had to brake really early. I did fine for the rest of the day but I couln't really push the car as much. That is why I asked. Nitto dragradials willl be fine if you already have them, they have the same sidewall as the Nitto R II. However I do not recomend having different tires brands and compounds as that can screw up the handling. Ideally you should have all 4 tires the same compund and brand. That way you can feel the car and make adjustment from there. It doesn't have to be a supper high performance tire. When I was there I was running and all season high performance tires and pulling 1.02g in some corners.

If I where to prioritize this is the order:

1. Brakes
2. Tires
3. Swaybars

Leave the torque arm alone for now. It will not add anything to the hadling but if in the rush to put it in you set the wrong pinion angle you can have issues at the track. My .02

fantastixvoyage

Thanks again for all the input. Problem is I never know when to keep well enough alone...and I don't do stock!!!

Picked up a UMI tunnel mount torque arm, and adj PH and LCAs are on their way. Plan to run the drag radials (thanks for the input on the sidewalls). A front sway bar would be nice but I'm holding off to get a strano hollow bar set over the winter.

Front alignment and inspection planned, as well as bleeding the clutch, flushing the brake and coolant and installing hawk pads up front.

That should get me thru the day!

trexbob

iTrader: (1)

Depending how high in the RPM range you are and for how long, your PS fluid could boil. It is common on these cars in autocross and road courses. Run some quality PS fluid or you may find yourself replacing your pump afterwards. I think a PS cooler was an option on 99 models, so unless you're lucky, you probably don't have one. They're an easy add on and can be found cheap usually. I picked one up on ebay for under $40.

rcracer4430

iTrader: (1)

I have not used the nitto drag tires but I autocross using the Nitto NT555RII tires. Them do bettery than any soft "street" tire I have used but not as good as a Hoosier A6. Although they are over $100 cheaper!

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

The biggest things you'd want to check first is make sure your fluids are new and filled and make sure your brakes can handle the track day.

Definitely get fresh oil in there. Your power steering may whine after a short amount of time if you have old fluid. Just put in some redline PS fluid... that took care of it for me for almost 2 years now. You'll probably want to change some other things like trans oil, gear oil, coolant.

I don't know out of experience but I heard brake pads like HPS or lower won't be up for the road race task. Getting good brake fluid is essential. Make sure its clean and bubble free. I know some road race guys who don't like ATE for the heavy duty racing. I think they lose their high boiling point faster than the more expensive fluids like Motul and stuff. Safety comes first when you're going that fast. Do not use cross drilled rotors!

I autoxed on nitto 555r drag radials all around for a year or two. They will work fine like many street tires. Just make sure the pressure is set in a good range. Really you don't need much, but fluids and brakes is pretty important.

SIK02SS

iTrader: (11)

do these:
Alignment
Replace rear brakes (fronts done)
Bleed brakes
Bleed clutch (fresh LS7)

and then just get seat time. you dont really need to worry about mods and the setup if this is your 1st event. i'm assuming its your 1st going in general. even if its not though, its good to feel how the car acts and handles before you start modding it