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anyone ever fab they're own lca's?

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Old 09-29-2008, 09:45 PM
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Default anyone ever fab they're own lca's?

I'm kinda broke but I have access to a shop and am decent at fabricating.

any one ever fab they're own lca's and reloc. brackets?

It doesn't seem that hard to me but I would like to know how bad I could **** things up.
Old 09-30-2008, 05:26 AM
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Coleman make threaded control arms on the cheap.

I build aluminum LCAs and PHBs with good Aurora rod ends. Costs about $250 for everything. The hard part is finding the spacers.
Old 09-30-2008, 06:48 AM
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I, along with a little help from the guys at work, fabbed a pair of LCAs for the rear. I used round DOM tubing, and sized them to use replacement rubber bushings, so I don't have any squeeks, rattles, or binding issues. They are, however, a lot stronger than stock.

I also did a round tubing panhard bar, a LONG time ago.
Old 09-30-2008, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by mitchntx
Coleman make threaded control arms on the cheap.

I build aluminum LCAs and PHBs with good Aurora rod ends. Costs about $250 for everything. The hard part is finding the spacers.
those adjustable? what spacers r u talking about?
sorry if I sound like a noob I just haven't really got under there and looked very closely at the rear suspension.
Old 09-30-2008, 04:46 PM
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they are adj on the car
spacers are needed for the rod ends so they fit the bracket and articulate as designed

you can do the same for a phr
Old 09-30-2008, 09:32 PM
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as far as lca's, you can just box the stock ones and put in some new bushings for like $30.

don't know if you want adjustability but that'd be the easiest route.
Old 09-30-2008, 09:39 PM
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how would you box them? just wonderin
Old 09-30-2008, 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by mitchntx
Costs about $250 for everything.
Which makes it sound like it would make more sense to just buy some
Old 10-01-2008, 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by dirtybird00
how would you box them? just wonderin

You weld a strip of 1/8" steel to the bottom, or open side, of the stock LCA. That creates a closed "box", instead of a "U" channel.
Old 10-01-2008, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by leadfoot4
You weld a strip of 1/8" steel to the bottom, or open side, of the stock LCA. That creates a closed "box", instead of a "U" channel.
Hopefully if people do that, they are also swapping to poly bushings, or at least solid moog bushings. Otherwise I would think that star shaped stock bushings would still present the weak point.
Old 10-01-2008, 11:55 AM
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i built mine. i got some really dense rubber on the chassis side and somerod ends on the rear end.

skim through lefthanderchasis.com/ jegs/ and sponsers. youll find many possibilities.

or sign up for frax.com and do a search and youll pull up some how to articles.
Old 10-01-2008, 12:07 PM
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If you are hell bent on building some and have the time to do it (both putting them together and sourcing parts), great. Have at it.

But considering you can buy arms ranging from $109/pair for non-adjustable to $249/pair (and the $249 is for the big, bad double rod-ended ones that are powdercoated, have billet spacers for the rod-ends and made of Chrome-Moly..... What's your time worth?
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Old 10-01-2008, 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Sam Strano
If you are hell bent on building some and have the time to do it (both putting them together and sourcing parts), great. Have at it.

But considering you can buy arms ranging from $109/pair for non-adjustable to $249/pair (and the $249 is for the big, bad double rod-ended ones that are powdercoated, have billet spacers for the rod-ends and made of Chrome-Moly..... What's your time worth?

GOOD POINT!


I did mine for two reasons. One, "just for the hell of it", and I had access to the Bridegport and lathe that the job required; two, because the aftermarket arms won't accept the OE sized, solid rubber bushings. My car is 100% street driven, and while I value "heavy duty" parts, I don't want/need the harshness of "solid" components, especialy on the roads I have to drive on.
Old 10-01-2008, 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by mitchntx
Coleman make threaded control arms on the cheap.

I build aluminum LCAs and PHBs with good Aurora rod ends. Costs about $250 for everything. The hard part is finding the spacers.
that is alot. i built my set for way under that. (way under)
Old 10-01-2008, 01:33 PM
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I built and sold control arms on ebay for a while. If you have a welder and a little fabricating ability, its not a big deal. I dont think it would be worth it for just one pair though.
Old 10-01-2008, 03:16 PM
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I like doing things myself. How long would it take? get some thick walled pipe, weld caps on the ends, drill and tap em, find some threaded ends and use a lock nut. that's pretty much it right?
Old 10-01-2008, 03:40 PM
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1 1/4" OD, .095 wall, 1024 or similar mild steel tubing is common, so is 1 1/4 OD, .083 wall chromoly tubing is also common.

If you go to chassisshop.com you can find any rod end, alum spacer, tube end, etc, that you need. They also sell small quanities of tubing cut to length if you dont have access to a cutting device.
Old 10-04-2008, 12:01 PM
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I wish one of the sponsor would use some rebuildable, and greaseable mount end like this:
Old 10-04-2008, 12:40 PM
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I think you'd probly be better off just buying a set of LCA's. We have offset LCA's for about 235 plus shipping. We are also a dealer for BMR. They have LCA's w/ poly bushings.
Old 10-04-2008, 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by 99Bluz28
I wish one of the sponsor would use some rebuildable, and greaseable mount end like this:



If you were to take the joint as it's shown in the LH picture, and obtain 2 pcs. of 1 5/8" OD, thick walled DOM steel tubing, "fish mouth" the tubing to fit the sleeve of the mount end, and make it 17.250" from the apex of the fish eyes, you'd have an LCA with articulating joints. I would have done that myself, but the roads where I am are too rough for a "solid" joint like that.


Quick Reply: anyone ever fab they're own lca's?



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