SINISTER build (update 2/8/13)
04-26-2012, 11:30 PM
#1
Project Rotten Z28. i posted this in the appearance section, but i figured i'd show some love for you texas pals.
So after a eight or so month build on my lt1 motor after a head gasket blew, as soon as it was broken in, there was just so much more to be had, so after a a lot of consideration with either throwing H/C/I at the lt1 or going with an ls platform, I decided to part ways with the freshly rebuilt lt1, and stick with something in the ls family.
Here's my old build thread from how it all started.
just to start a couple of the car before i started this particular build.
Now that the car is not a daily driver, the plans for it are more aimed toward show, and function. More modding! I will mainly road race and autocross the car.
I picked up a unknown mileage 03 lq4 truck motor in disassembled long block form for $350 a couple of hours away, ended up selling the internals for $100, and the 317 heads for $100, so I recouped a lot of the cost in selling just the parts I wouldn't be using off of the motor. I had the motor bored .030" over as well as all necessary cleaning and honing needed to get the block in pristine condition for the new rotating assembly.
I sold the fresh lt1, and lt1 style t56 locally, and ended up purchasing a fully forged rotating assembly from Texas speed soon after. I chose to go with a 370 instead of a 408 solely for the longevity of a non stroker motor, and since I knew I would be staying strictly NA I decided some budget eagle forged components would suffice just perfect. I went with forged eagle H beam rods, forged stock stroke eagle ls1 crankshaft 24x, and a nice set of forged aluminum wiseco flat top pistons with -3.2cc valve reliefs. While I was at it I figured that I might as well get all the strength I can out of my setup, and went ahead with a set of ARP main studs to button up the rotating assembly.
Before the rotating assembly arrived I chose to clean up and paint the engine block as well as put an old popular sbc oil drain back trick on the internals of the block with a nice coat of glyptal red enamel. (for those who are skeptical, do a search).
by that time the rotating assembly showed up at my door, and before I knew it I almost had an assembled short block.
Slugs in the holes..
I got my custom pat g spec'd camshaft, so in conjunction with a tsp ported ls6 oil pump, yank HD timing chain, and ls1 timing gear setup and stabbed it all in with arp everything holding it together for peice of mind. I also picked up a little oil pump tube girdle from a member here for extra insurance, even know it was far from likely to fail with the single bolt desigh, oh well.
I picked up a set of covers for the motor as well as an fbody oil pan, pick up tube and windage tray and sent the covers and pan to powder-coat so I can seal up the bottom end from the elements. and it of course was all buttoned up with arp 12 point black oxide hardware.
In the mean time I found a badass deal on a fast 102mm intake manifold and pulled the trigger, and shortly had it sent off to powder pro for a makeover. I also scored a deal on a set of nasty performance billet anodized black valve covers, and a merziere billet anodized black street electric water pump.
I then picked up a trick billet alternator bracket, and idler pulley from jason at Alper motor sports. Being the perfectionist I am, I also bought practically every bolt on the motor in ARP 12pt black oxide to finish it all off and matching. Shortly after I ended up picking up a lightly used set of kooks 1 7/8" long tube headers for a deal I couldn't pass up and an ls6 valley cover was a must to keep the 102 clean on the inside.. Then started doing a lot of research on what heads I wants to run on the motor, and after struggling to decide between the budget prc stage 2.5 ls6 heads, and the trick flow as cast 220's I stumbled up a deal on a set of hand ported and flowed and reworked valve setup set of TFS as cast 220's at a pretty good price, and immediately after picking them up I dropped them off at the machine shop to get them at them milled to 60cc chambers to bump up my compression to 11.7:1. I found a killer deal on a package of ARP head studs bnib for less than the ARP head bolts. So said, oh well. Why not, and threw those on along with my set of cometic 4.035" bore x .040" thickness mls head gaskets, and smacked the heads onto make a nearly complete long block at this point.
before i slapped the pretty heads on the block i dropped in a set of new ls7 lifters and I picked up knock sensors, poly motor mounts and clamshells that i painted wrinkle coat, a stock set of rocker arms, Shims for the TFS heads, and a trunion bearing upgrade and bolted all those on at the same time. it's just missing pushrods for the valve train to becomplete.
I got the manifold back from the powderpro, and mocked it and my kooks up on the motor.. it's starting to look more like a motor than a rusty ole block.
at this point i had been on the lookout for some dressup items as well as fuctioning accessories for the motor, and ended up grabbing a black anodized billet tensioner from a vender on ebay, and several cool products from jason at alper motorsports. his billet powersteering bump bracket and billey powersteering and tensioner pulley he had sourced from wazee's. I also snagged a set of black anodized billet fuel rails for the 102 from torrent and paired them with a set of 42lb injectors from fuel injector connection to feed this baby fuel. i custom plumbed the setup with black nylon braided fuel line, and -6an fittings for the crossover and rear connection to the rest of the fuel plumbing since torrent didn't provide this with the kit. i then picked up a dipstick and tube as well as a nick williams 102 throttle body about the same time. it was really starting to come together now.
...to be continued.
So after a eight or so month build on my lt1 motor after a head gasket blew, as soon as it was broken in, there was just so much more to be had, so after a a lot of consideration with either throwing H/C/I at the lt1 or going with an ls platform, I decided to part ways with the freshly rebuilt lt1, and stick with something in the ls family.
Here's my old build thread from how it all started.
just to start a couple of the car before i started this particular build.
Now that the car is not a daily driver, the plans for it are more aimed toward show, and function. More modding! I will mainly road race and autocross the car.
I picked up a unknown mileage 03 lq4 truck motor in disassembled long block form for $350 a couple of hours away, ended up selling the internals for $100, and the 317 heads for $100, so I recouped a lot of the cost in selling just the parts I wouldn't be using off of the motor. I had the motor bored .030" over as well as all necessary cleaning and honing needed to get the block in pristine condition for the new rotating assembly.
I sold the fresh lt1, and lt1 style t56 locally, and ended up purchasing a fully forged rotating assembly from Texas speed soon after. I chose to go with a 370 instead of a 408 solely for the longevity of a non stroker motor, and since I knew I would be staying strictly NA I decided some budget eagle forged components would suffice just perfect. I went with forged eagle H beam rods, forged stock stroke eagle ls1 crankshaft 24x, and a nice set of forged aluminum wiseco flat top pistons with -3.2cc valve reliefs. While I was at it I figured that I might as well get all the strength I can out of my setup, and went ahead with a set of ARP main studs to button up the rotating assembly.
Before the rotating assembly arrived I chose to clean up and paint the engine block as well as put an old popular sbc oil drain back trick on the internals of the block with a nice coat of glyptal red enamel. (for those who are skeptical, do a search).
by that time the rotating assembly showed up at my door, and before I knew it I almost had an assembled short block.
Slugs in the holes..
I got my custom pat g spec'd camshaft, so in conjunction with a tsp ported ls6 oil pump, yank HD timing chain, and ls1 timing gear setup and stabbed it all in with arp everything holding it together for peice of mind. I also picked up a little oil pump tube girdle from a member here for extra insurance, even know it was far from likely to fail with the single bolt desigh, oh well.
I picked up a set of covers for the motor as well as an fbody oil pan, pick up tube and windage tray and sent the covers and pan to powder-coat so I can seal up the bottom end from the elements. and it of course was all buttoned up with arp 12 point black oxide hardware.
In the mean time I found a badass deal on a fast 102mm intake manifold and pulled the trigger, and shortly had it sent off to powder pro for a makeover. I also scored a deal on a set of nasty performance billet anodized black valve covers, and a merziere billet anodized black street electric water pump.
I then picked up a trick billet alternator bracket, and idler pulley from jason at Alper motor sports. Being the perfectionist I am, I also bought practically every bolt on the motor in ARP 12pt black oxide to finish it all off and matching. Shortly after I ended up picking up a lightly used set of kooks 1 7/8" long tube headers for a deal I couldn't pass up and an ls6 valley cover was a must to keep the 102 clean on the inside.. Then started doing a lot of research on what heads I wants to run on the motor, and after struggling to decide between the budget prc stage 2.5 ls6 heads, and the trick flow as cast 220's I stumbled up a deal on a set of hand ported and flowed and reworked valve setup set of TFS as cast 220's at a pretty good price, and immediately after picking them up I dropped them off at the machine shop to get them at them milled to 60cc chambers to bump up my compression to 11.7:1. I found a killer deal on a package of ARP head studs bnib for less than the ARP head bolts. So said, oh well. Why not, and threw those on along with my set of cometic 4.035" bore x .040" thickness mls head gaskets, and smacked the heads onto make a nearly complete long block at this point.
before i slapped the pretty heads on the block i dropped in a set of new ls7 lifters and I picked up knock sensors, poly motor mounts and clamshells that i painted wrinkle coat, a stock set of rocker arms, Shims for the TFS heads, and a trunion bearing upgrade and bolted all those on at the same time. it's just missing pushrods for the valve train to becomplete.
I got the manifold back from the powderpro, and mocked it and my kooks up on the motor.. it's starting to look more like a motor than a rusty ole block.
at this point i had been on the lookout for some dressup items as well as fuctioning accessories for the motor, and ended up grabbing a black anodized billet tensioner from a vender on ebay, and several cool products from jason at alper motorsports. his billet powersteering bump bracket and billey powersteering and tensioner pulley he had sourced from wazee's. I also snagged a set of black anodized billet fuel rails for the 102 from torrent and paired them with a set of 42lb injectors from fuel injector connection to feed this baby fuel. i custom plumbed the setup with black nylon braided fuel line, and -6an fittings for the crossover and rear connection to the rest of the fuel plumbing since torrent didn't provide this with the kit. i then picked up a dipstick and tube as well as a nick williams 102 throttle body about the same time. it was really starting to come together now.
...to be continued.
Last edited by scj; 01-03-2014 at 10:47 PM.
04-26-2012, 11:31 PM
#2
But don't worry, the chassis wasn't just sitting around not getting any love while all this work is getting done to the motor...
The body was practically stripped of all wiring for a custom wiring harness with everything hidden behind the dash and out of the engine bay.
The dash was also pulled in order to finish up the sound deadening a full layer of deadening as well as a full layer of ensolite on every square inch of the interior of the car, doors, floor, roof, hatch, sails, trunk, etc. along with the whole interior removed for something a lot more desireable...The battery was already moved to the trunk, the undercarriage was stripped, rear end dropped, fuel tank pulled, walbro 255 from racetronix installed, full stainless braided line routed, as well as installation of the c5 filter/regulator. Anything and everything was stripped, painted, or coated and reinstalled under the car along with a new set of umi tubular 3pt subframe connectors, tubular lower control arms, and founders lca relocation brackets. but don't quite have pictures of everything.. sorry.
The lt1 front end was sold and all the front end parts were replaced with an ls1 style setup including a set of oem headlights I whistler modded (which will later get hid projector retrofits), and a Sunoco cowl induction hood to top it off. i also did a little cutting on the front end.. including a custom vertical radiator.
While I loved my old cheap zr1's I had to do something different, and unique. so I had a set of c5 dd wheels 18"x10.5" front and rear powdercoated gloss black for a really sinister look, and a near ccw look. I had my rears wrapped in a set of 315/30/18 falken azenis 615ks, but have yet to purchase a set of front tires. They will be 295/35/18 kdw's most likely though possibly 315's all around though.. we'll see if they fit.
and mocked up on the front and rear for viewing pleasure.
04-26-2012, 11:34 PM
#3
In the mean time of all of this work the interior also received some attention I snagged some accmats black molded carpet, a trans am dash assembly, most ebony interior panels( which i sem painted satin black) and a black powder coated Wolfe bolt in 6pt cage which I installed/ mocked up in the interior for some much needed love. also installed some remote battery terminals.
i changed the front cover to a polished unit, picked up an ATI super damper, tps and iac sensors, and a fumuto quick oil drain valve to keep oil off this thing as much as possible on the outside, and tubular front end setup(upper and lower A arms, and tubular k-member set up with my qa1 coil-overs, and got all that installed with the motor sitting on a furniture dolly.
I'm to the point now where there's not a whole lot I can do outside the car. I'm gonna be running a custom wiring harness with the PCM behind the dash, and most of the wiring harness tucked away and hidden as much as possible, as well as coil relocation behind the dash, so everything will pretty much need to be pre fitted and measured. The same goes for the custom an fitting and braided radiator hoses and fuel line routing. Don't worry guys. It'll come back out and the engine bay will be completely filled/shaved and painted before the motor goes in again.
i changed the front cover to a polished unit, picked up an ATI super damper, tps and iac sensors, and a fumuto quick oil drain valve to keep oil off this thing as much as possible on the outside, and tubular front end setup(upper and lower A arms, and tubular k-member set up with my qa1 coil-overs, and got all that installed with the motor sitting on a furniture dolly.
I'm to the point now where there's not a whole lot I can do outside the car. I'm gonna be running a custom wiring harness with the PCM behind the dash, and most of the wiring harness tucked away and hidden as much as possible, as well as coil relocation behind the dash, so everything will pretty much need to be pre fitted and measured. The same goes for the custom an fitting and braided radiator hoses and fuel line routing. Don't worry guys. It'll come back out and the engine bay will be completely filled/shaved and painted before the motor goes in again.
! 
04-27-2012, 10:25 PM
#19
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (64)
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 3,612
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Damn Seth, I'm impressed bro. That car is going to be sick, and it looks like no corners have been cut. I definately want to check it out when it's done. That thing has came a long way!
04-28-2012, 12:23 AM
#20
currently they are rubbing on my spindles mounted on the front, but they don't have any brake rotors on them, so i think that alone will clear up that problem.. i may have to run a tiny spacer, i doubt it though.
hell yeah man, i wanna check out that zo"sick" with those ccw's too bro.
feel free to check it out anytime you're free busy man, i'm just right down the street, lol.
feel free to check it out anytime you're free busy man, i'm just right down the street, lol.