s-10ls1

iTrader: (4)

Well I'm looking into building a shop pretty soon and I wanted some opinions. I'm looking to build a 40x50 with a ten foot lean to so the slab will be 50x50. I have looked into metal and pole barns. I'm leaning more towards a pole barn because of the price.
So I'm wanting opinions on metal vs wood and who do you recommend?

speedcrazy2

iTrader: (1)

I recommend metal. Either way if you use tubing or I beam as long as it and the foundation are done correctly it will last a long time

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (25)

I'm wanting a 30x40 shop myself. The more I go to a friends house that has a 30x50, the extra space is very very hard to not go for. I will be going with metal. No worry about rotting wood.

ggriffin59

iTrader: (7)

I just did a 40x60x12(eave) with 22x60 lean-to, metal bldg, 3/12 pitch on roof, 2-12x10 roll-up doors & 2-walk-in doors, insulated. The bldg. kit from Mueller was about $21k, $8k to erect. Add for dirt work, slab, plumbing, wiring, lighting, etc.

The engineered kit building, erected, was a better price than all of the "weld-up" quotes I got, and is a cleaner look, so be sure to check going this route.

I'm finishing out about 400sf for man-cave / brewing kitchen too

edub80

iTrader: (2)

Check the compnay called "Rigid" out... They sale pre fabbed metal buildings... It all bolts up... No welding

94fixerTA

iTrader: (5)

I know a few guys that build in the north DFW area if anyone is interested.

s-10ls1

iTrader: (4)

I called them two days ago and I'm waiting on a quote from them.

s-10ls1

iTrader: (4)

Do they do metal or wood? Got a name and #?

edub80

iTrader: (2)

Pm me the quote if u don't mind.. I'm curious to how much they are... I'm on a job in a refinery that I'm hanging the iron from rigid.. The building is 100x200 lol

s-10ls1

iTrader: (4)

Ok I'll let you know

1965GP

iTrader: (2)

Go as big as you can. I added a 22 x 40 with a 10 x 40 carport to our existing three car garage. Thought for sure it would be plenty.

Now with a few lifts and more projects I am running out if room.

One major suggestion- roll up doors. Roll up doors are cheap and you can gain great airflow by putting them around the shop (think icehouse ?) it really cools the shop down. The builder suggested this and it is my favorite part of the shop.

s-10ls1

iTrader: (4)

Yeah I was going to do just a 30x40. After talking to a lot of my friends, I bumped the size up and added a lean to. Also where I live I can build up to a 2400 square foot shop. I emailed two other places that build pole barns.

1965GP

iTrader: (2)

Not sure if you are planning on lifts, but if you are make sure you get strong enough concrete (at least where you want lift) to mount a two post.

Check out the forums (especially gallery) at www.garagejournal.com for some ideas. Totally changed how I planned my shop out.

I ended up breaking mine into two sections- one decked out with memorabilia for the cleaned up ready to go cars (and minor repairs) and another with the bigger tools and room to leave cars disassembled for long term projects and not look like crap.

thunderwagen

iTrader: (3)

I did a 40x40 with 15 foot side walls out of metal and I love it. If I had it to do over again I would have added a 10 foot covered area to the side and added more roll up doors for air flow. I have kicked around getting them to come out and add another roll up door in mine cause that joker gets hot in the summer.

s-10ls1

iTrader: (4)

Who did you use to build your shop?

thunderwagen

iTrader: (3)

I used Danhauer construction out of spring town and Wrights concrete connection for the flat work.

01WS6/tamu

iTrader: (37)

Spray foam and a 5 ton RTU will fix that problem. That's what I did on mine at house but I went 7.5 due to having 3 phase and tall ceilings and it's 2 stage carrier so when it needs both stages I have them and when it doesn't need them it loafs along on single stage.

imma_stocker

iTrader: (19)

Metal, hands down. I'm in Houston too and have commercial references if needed. Do your research before signing a contract! You don't want them to disappear halfway through or leave you with incoming liens.

Then attach plywood to the inner side of the frame and shove insulation batting in between. Two reasons, first it helps insulate a little but mainly makes it very difficult for a would-be thief to cut your wall out.

I rent and sell all the tools used to cut through any wall. NO TOOL AND BLADE can cut through all 3 with any sort of stealth or quickness. You want a gap longer than a sawzall can reach. 30 years doing business in Acres Homes teaches you a few things about theft prevention LOL

s-10ls1

iTrader: (4)

I think I'm going to do a pole barn. I have gotten a few bids in and still waiting on a few more.