SERIALPIMP

iTrader: (4)

Lets here what you guys have to say about this:

I am now getting PAID! Serious increase in income and my car is paid off,
so I am ready to start doing some more serious mods. I bought the car new, and plan on keeping it forever. I know cars, and worked as a Dealership Tech, and know racing, but I have not kept up with all the brands, parts, and models of stuff out there, so this is where I need yalls help. I will do all the work myself, if I can find the time. If not, (I travel for my new job) then I might consider paying a place, but only if they are the right place.

CURRENT SETUP:
2002 Camaro Z28
6 Speed
3.42 Rear End, w/TCS
Corbeau CR1 Seats,
No Back Seat,
MTI Lid
BMR Strut Tower Brace,
BMR Subframe Connectors Bolted & Welded,
Fan Control Switch Kit
LG Lower Control Arms w/rod ends
LG Torque Arm
Cutout
Chrome ZR-1s

I CURRENTLY HAVE THE FOLLOWING PARTS IN THE GARAGE:
Full Set of Bilsteen HD's
Strano 35mm Front Sway Bar

PLANS:
I plan to purchase the following over the next 3 months
9" Rear End
DriveShaft
Driveshaft Loop
Oil Pressure & Fuel Pressure & Water Temp Gauges in Pillar Post
Clutch
Headers
Exhaust
Heads & Cam Kit
6 Point Wolfe Weld in Chromoly Cage
Weld Pro Star XP's w/Tires


What else am I missing to make a nice Sat Night Street Car?
Any suggestions on brands to buy or stay away from?
Any suggestions on who has some of the best deals on these items?
What have you paid for your parts and how happy have you been?
Have similar stuff, or a similar car, share your knowledge and experiences!
Can I get in the 11's with this?

9" Rear End - Figured I could buy direct from Mosier or from just about any sponsor, maybe save some shipping by picking one up from someone in TX, I know 9" is alot stronger than 12bolt, and while I am not fast enough to break one now, If this turns into an 8 second car in 5 or 6 years, I won't have to change rear ends again.

Clutch - guys at MTI recomended an LS6 Clutch

Driveshaft - Figured that I should upgrade to a the larger yoke on the rear end and larger U-Joint and a stronger Driveshaft, while upgrading to the stronger rear end.

Headers - Figured Hookers, liked my last two sets of Hooker Headers.

Exhaust - figured True Duals, Dumped with a Bullet Style Muffler, or maybe a single 4" Pipe with a Mufflex Kit if Ground Clearance should be a concern. Does anyone still use Mufflex ?

Heads & Cam Kit - Figured I would go with an MTI, HPE or Thunder Racing Kit, and find a tuner in Houston, Austin or DFW.

Which Weld Pro Stars do I need? Backspacing, etc. Part Numbers?
Any I don't have to grind Calipers for?

stevensLS1

iTrader: (2)

you will be in the 11s with this setup. clutches go with a spec or mcleoud (sp). if you get 16 in wheels you wont have to grind on the calipers but 15s you will. check out the wheels and tire section ( make sure you use the search) for backspacing. Good luck.

oh btw you can always put on a 150 shot of nitrous for that extra punch.

67Ranger

iTrader: (16)

you're going to need something more than the LS6 clutch, and you may wanna get a different intake. Not too sure about the other stuff, but thats what I can add.

408WS6

iTrader: (1)

Instead of the prostars, get some bogarts if you can afford them. They cost only $500 more than the prostars and you don't have to grind the calipers. They look much more classy than the prostars, weigh less, etc. Well worth the extra money IMHO.

Here is a link:

http://www.bogartracingwheels.com/

Elite_Hot_Rod

Stock back spacing is 7 1/2". If you are going to narrow the 9" then the back spacing will change according to how much the rear is narrowed. For the headers I'd go with Kooks 1 7/8's. I wouldn't bother with an aftermarket front sway bar, infact I'd take the stock sway bar off the car it helps with weight transfer. I'd also take the STB off, just addes weight.

SERIALPIMP

iTrader: (4)

I was suprised MTI recomended an LS6 Clutch,
I thought all 01 and 02 LS1's came with the Z06 aka LS6 Clutch & Hydraulics, but they told me that I should buy a new Slave and recomended the LS6 Clutch.

Elite_Hot_Rod

Also get either a good ported T/B or a good aftermarket T/B.

SHINER

iTrader: (18)

Hookers are good headers, i have SLPs and they are not what everyone raves about...QTP, and Kooks are real nice....my choice i would go with kooks

SERIALPIMP

iTrader: (4)

Thanks yall,

What TB does everyone like?
and when does an FAST Intake become necessary?
I assume the FAST TB is best with the FAST Intake.

kornfreak_401

iTrader: (77)

what ever you do, do it right. spend ur money right and have fun !! WOOO WOOOOOOO!!!

SERIALPIMP

iTrader: (4)

That is what I plan to do.

I don't want to drop $7K on my car, and then 6 months later want to redo it,
I want to drop $7K on my car, and 3 years later redo it bigger and badder, that would be better.

TchargedLS1TA

iTrader: (9)

We can port your stock throttle body if you choose..

Elite_Hot_Rod

On a 2002 LS1 you should have an LS6 intake manifold which is sufficient for the power you will be making so I'd say stay with that. I've had a Mark Shaner S3 ported stock T/B mounted on an LS6 intake which worked great. I also had a BBK 85MM T/B it was good also. I had a fast 90MM T/B with a fast intake and now I'm running an Accufab carb style T/B. Alot of guys are running the Nick Willaims T/B with good results.