blu98ta

iTrader: (4)

Im posting this for Jim aka y2khawk05. He told me he posted this, but I searched and cant find it. He is planning for this summer to do a iron block low compression 421, with the HPE stage 3 heads and cam that he already has and a procharger D1SC. What do yall think? Any suggestions? Is that cam a good blower cam, or does he need to switch to a different cam? Any ideas on power? Let me know what yall think.

Brandon

blu98ta

iTrader: (4)

Oh by the way this is the cam he has: Comp 236/238 112 LC.

SSilverSSurfer

iTrader: (8)

yeha not gonna work, cam would work better if chaged to a 114 or better, thats too much motor for that blower, same thing a bunch of us told him in his thread, he needs to keep the cubes down bigger is not necessarily better with a D1

Y2kHawk05

iTrader: (1)

Thanks guys! I saw the recommendation for a FR1 Supercharger and on a 408 based cubic inch motor. Does ATI make the FR1 and how can I find any information on this supoercharger. I did the search in the Forced Induction section as well and cannot seem to come up with anything. Thanks again for any help.

BigBronco

iTrader: (2)

The blower is an *F1-R*

Mike2kZ

iTrader: (3)

Personally I'd turbo the bish, but that's just me.

Wrong cam for FI. He is doing the fuel system right? You're not giving us much info here. A HPE stage 3 head means squat to me.

SSilverSSurfer

iTrader: (8)

id turbo that bish also maybe somethng laong the lines of an 88 or a 76mm.........the way it looks with the set up he has now, i think he might have to pretty much start all over, needs bigger injectors, fuel pump(s), new cam, NOT a 421, and then the blower, i know theres some stuff im leaving out

Y2kHawk05

iTrader: (1)

Here are the spec's

ETP Heads Port Volume 230CC Chamber 64CC at Valve life 600" Intake 320 Exhaust 222

Comp C cam 236 /238 112 LC Fast LSX 90 MM Nick WIlliams 90 MM
SLP LT 1 3/4 headers, gutted cats, slp cat back exhaust.
MTI Lid, LS6 MAF, Smooth Bellow
Lightweight Steel Billit Flywheel. Stock 346 bottom end.
The car has 93K miles on it.
made 434 rwhp on Mustang dyno

Rebuilding/reinforcing 10 bolt with all new parts & adding 3.73 gears. Ordered and installing UMI Box Syled Weld In Sub Frame Connectors.
Researching for the best clutch and then planning a bottom end.

Based on where I am at I have to consider I really only want this to be a NASTY Street car that I can take to the track and have fun. I plan to buy a tube chassis race car soon. So, Here's my dilimma.

Build a Forged 421 and just go for brut Motor HP or Forge the 346 and stick a Supercharger on it. I don't want to go turbo because I don't want to cut a hole in the front end of the car.

What are your thoughts?

I'm thinking either way I can get into the high 500's or 600 rwhp and not have a car that will be fallling apart in two years.

Again, asking for thoughts?

SSilverSSurfer

iTrader: (8)

do a 370, slap a d1 on it, crank up the boost, and abracadabra theres your 700...it'll be a monster....you wont have to cut a hole in the front of the car for a turbo, also a 421 nitrous monster would be crazy fast, but, hell even a low compression 408 with an F1 like a fellow member is doing, you would be knocking on the door of 1000hp probably

Y2kHawk05

iTrader: (1)

All 3 are excellent reccomendations, but what will be the best set up to last the longest? Also, What will it take to build it so the body won't break to pieces? Will a 6 point roll cage suffice? or do I need to build up the chassis further? I'm an older LS1 techer (38 years old) just really getting serious about racing. All I have heard recently is our F-body's are not that great to building up to 1000 rwhp without spending major $$$$ on chassis stuff. Believe me, I have the $$$$ and want as much hp, but should I save the Firehawk as a street car and build a race car? I'm talking a serious race car to compete in the 10 1/5 events.

Elite_Hot_Rod

Man you need to do alot of research, if your planning on doing a project like that your asking to many beginner questions, sorry but you really need to do some more home work first, then ask more educated questions.

Y2kHawk05

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, but that is exactly why I'm asking the questions. Basic or not I would like to know. That being being said - I believe forums are for the purpose of asking questions. Have you ever heard there are no stupid questions. I am doing my research. The person building my car builds 1400 + race cars. He is keeping me in line with my Firehawk being a "street car" and going for a different car to be a race car because the sub frame F-body's being not a good car to build more than 600 rwhp with sub frame connectors or not. That's the reason for the 6 point question. Not being defensive, only attempting to explain where I am at.

Thank you for your response.

cyphur

iTrader: (10)

I agree with Elite_Hot_Rod, but here's my advice....


for a street car anything over 600rwhp is just stupid. do a 370 and a D1 and call it a day. from the sound of it you need to call a shop like SQR, HPE, TSP, LGM, W2W, someone, and have them build you a setup. An undertaking like this should not be tackled by someone who isn't 100% sure what they're doing. I would have thought your "builder" would have steered you in the right direction.

SSilverSSurfer

iTrader: (8)

if you want a 10.5 car then you want a race car...not a street car... the set up i gave you was for a street monster, if you want a race car you need to be looking in to an F2.....you really need to decide what exactly it is you want. street car or race car? if i were you i would use the hawk as a streeter and look into building a race car. your gonna want to start from the ground up and not the motor down. figure out your goal and build a chassis that can sustain it. then look into what requirements will be needed to compete in a certain class. hope this leads you in a good direction

Y2kHawk05

iTrader: (1)

Thank you ^^^^ & ^^^^. My builder is doing just that. He has said time & time again. Keep it in perspective. Build a 10.5 race car if you want to write the check. And I will do just that. I want the meanest, baddest "street car" possible that will last a long time. The latter being the more important. I undertand there will always be a faster car. I've seen it too many times. I am looking for suggestions to really make the best decision. Everyone has been nice in sharing opinions and I appreciate it.

Elite_Hot_Rod

Sometimes there's a fine line between a mean street car and a 10.5 race car. Personally I don't think I'd build a street car with a blower, to many problems with them on the street. If I were going to build a street monster I'd try and keep it as simple a possible. I'd probably go with a bigger cubed motor 422 or a 427 that can run on pump gas, make good power on motor and be reliable, then if that wasn't enough power you could always throw a small shot nitrous at it. You do know that when you start making that kind of power your gonna have some traction issues on the street. That's just my opinion though, whatever makes you happy man.

SSilverSSurfer

iTrader: (8)

im assuming this is just a weekend toy.... 10.5 race car and a mean *** street car are on 2 different maps. if you build a street car upwards of 800-1000hp its really gonna be useless unless yuor doing roll races from 100..lol...with power on that level traction is your key isue on the street...ive yet to see a blower car encounter a problem...maybe i dont know enuff ppl that have them but i spend quite sometime in the FI section. theres a reason FI is the new fad, its power on tap that you wont have to refill every now and then(well except change the oil if you go with a procharger) like cyphur said a 370 with a D1 will a damn monster, try to pick a hp goal and then go from there on what to build

cyphur

iTrader: (10)

Personally I think you would be more than happy with a high compression 402 or 408 running a monster cam and some badass heads. You'll make 550, do it a hell of a lot cheaper than what you're proposing, and you'll be 2-3x more reliable.

Blowers can be very reliable on the street, but the further you push them, the less reliable they can get. You'll run into belt slip, bleeding boost, fuel problems, etc. D1SCs are great for up to about 15lbs of boost, beyond that just go to the F1 IMHO.

You REALLY have to decide what you're shooting for. Either way you're going to need a moser/strange 9" to hold this kind of power. That rebuilt 10bolt won't hold up for crap. I won't even launch mine with only 400rwhp.

Y2kHawk05

iTrader: (1)

All are giving excellent advice and it's definitely appreciated. I am leaning toward the built 421 / 422 and just going for reliability. A D-1sc sounds exciting & all, but i really don't want the additional head ache. I should get my car back with the rebuilt rear end (stronger axles, 3.73's, welded axle tubes and aluminum cover), the new clutch, and new rocker arms (jesels). in a week or two.

What are you r receommendations as far as a clutch? Spec 3, Centerforce Dual Disk, McLeod Dual disk, or C6 Z06 Clutch? I am asking this question because I would like to know if anyone has had a bad experience with any of the above mentioned or if one really outshines the other.

Here's a stupdi question, but who makes the F1 blower? I have attempted many searches and have not found anything.

SSilverSSurfer

iTrader: (8)

procharger makes the F1, i think you can only buy the head unit...im sure you will be just as happy with an all motor or motor/nitrous combo