Need Some Advice With My LS1..
12-18-2007, 11:49 PM
#1
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Need Some Advice With My LS1.. Well I plan on throwing a couple of more mods into my car pretty soon. As of now, All I have planned is a Pro 5.0 shifter, drag radials or maybe even slicks (since my Dad bought a new car trailer), SLP smooth bellow, SLP mass air flow, and I also plan on getting it dyno tuned late Jan. Would it make a difference if I go away with the EGR and AIR? I wanna keep it streetable considering it's my daily driver, but yet I wanna go to the tracks and break a 12. If I have to, I'll throw a shot on it. I ain't scared, haha. The previous owner told me he never ran it at the tracks, but he would spank his buddy's 5.0 'Stang that was supercharged by a car length or so on the street (w/the mods in my sig except cut-out and LS7 clutch). Claimed his buddy would run a 12.9 in the quarter in the stang. I have no idea how true it is, but thats what he claimed. Basically I just wanna know if the mods I have planned are worth the $ and if not, what would make a big difference performance wise. Thanks for the help, Ryan.
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12-19-2007, 01:50 AM
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How'd you like the clutch?
Do some reading... smooth bellows are a waste of time and money, and they like to crack air boxes. They typically do not produce a notable power increase.
I have the SLP MAF sensor. I have zero complaints, and I feel it made a noticeable difference in power when I installed it.
Be careful... sticky tires with a 7.5" rear end and an M6 are precursors to drivetrain disaster. I'm waiting for mine to break again with street tires.
Invest in an LS6 intake, ported TB, and gears (preferably in a Moser 9" rear). Sorry, if you've done any of this, but I can't see sigs right now.
After getting my UMI Chassis Mounted Torque Arm, I'd recommend it to you. It made an amzing difference, but be prepared for a bit of interior vibration and noise. And if I could do it again, I'd cough up the extra for chromoly.
Definitely delete the EGR and AIR. You may want to do it at the same time as your tune, to avoid the SES light. If you would have seen all the gunk that the EGR left in my intake, you would have already gotten rid of it. Don't forget to find and remove all associated valves, tubing, and pumps (for the slight weight reduction, and better underhood looks). I just did this, and wish I would have a long time ago.
Do some reading... smooth bellows are a waste of time and money, and they like to crack air boxes. They typically do not produce a notable power increase.
I have the SLP MAF sensor. I have zero complaints, and I feel it made a noticeable difference in power when I installed it.
Be careful... sticky tires with a 7.5" rear end and an M6 are precursors to drivetrain disaster. I'm waiting for mine to break again with street tires.
Invest in an LS6 intake, ported TB, and gears (preferably in a Moser 9" rear). Sorry, if you've done any of this, but I can't see sigs right now.
After getting my UMI Chassis Mounted Torque Arm, I'd recommend it to you. It made an amzing difference, but be prepared for a bit of interior vibration and noise. And if I could do it again, I'd cough up the extra for chromoly.
Definitely delete the EGR and AIR. You may want to do it at the same time as your tune, to avoid the SES light. If you would have seen all the gunk that the EGR left in my intake, you would have already gotten rid of it. Don't forget to find and remove all associated valves, tubing, and pumps (for the slight weight reduction, and better underhood looks). I just did this, and wish I would have a long time ago.
12-19-2007, 12:27 PM
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Yeah... if you're strapped for cash, then just get a short stick (UMI, WS6 store, or Lou's short stick).
It's probably the factory rubber in the stick that's making you miss shifts. Assuming that you have the factory Hurst. If not, I've got a factory Hurst that I'll sell cheap.
It's probably the factory rubber in the stick that's making you miss shifts. Assuming that you have the factory Hurst. If not, I've got a factory Hurst that I'll sell cheap.