landonew

Need help buying a Mig and all the accessories that go with it. I have ZERO welding experience but am a fast learner. I plan to spend a few weeks learning how to weld on scraps and then move on to some practice projects such as a work bench and a cart for the welder.

Ultimately, I would like to be able to use this welder to mini-tub my trans-am, but I won't torch on the car until I am confident with my ability.

I am leaning toward the Hobart Handler 140 Welder. I like this welder because it is relatively cheap, has decent power, and will run off 110v. From what I have read, this is a decent mig to start out on.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/webapp/...stingPage=true

What else do I need besides the physical welder?

(1) What shielding Gas do I need and where should I get it? Is it recommonded to buy your own tank or rent?

(2) Safety stuff.... apron, helmet with a dark face plate, and gloves right? Where should I buy this stuff on the cheap? HF?

(3) Consumables.... Flux wire, tips... Is there a kit yall recommend to get started with... preferably on the cheap?

(4) Anything else???


Finally, Do yall think this is a practical way to learn to weld? I would eventually like to get into rollbar fabrication (not for a living, just hobby), ext... but I would like some experience before I go out and buy $2000+ tig welders, plasma cutters, as well as tube benders/notchers, chop saws and all the other crap you need.

z28mccrory

iTrader: (7)

Hobarts are good welders for the money.

1) I use 75/25 argon mix for just about everything

2) Just get a good pair of gloves, and an auto-darkening helmet.

3) Buy the largest spool of wire that you welder will take, as its always the best value. You wont go through tips very often unless you mess up a lot. Im still on the same tip that came in mine. Buy a can of the anti-stick stuff that they sell, and keep the tip and the inside of the cone sprayed, it will keep things from sticking and keep everything looking like new.



The best way to learn is to just practice. Have someone experiences come help you get your welder settings about where they need to be, then go from there. Go to a fabrication shop and see if you can buy some scrap. Practice welding around round tubing, square... stick some stuff together and come up with different scenarios, etc. Once you get that then try some thinner stuff and see if you can weld it without melting through it, etc.

Other than the welder, i would just pick up a cheap chop-saw. That should get you started and let you do some simple projects.

99345hp

most of your advice is pretty good, but you do want to essencially melt through all metal when welding it together. If it isn't completely penetrated, then it isn't properly welded.

Once you weld something together try to destroy the weld. That will tell you where you need work. Most of the time with a mig welder it looks like a good strong weld, but there is no penetration. Make sure you have plenty of good practice before welding something structural or important on a car.

landonew

Do yall think it would be better to just take a welding course at the local community college before going out and buying a welder?

BADD SS

iTrader: (4)

Yes, because most people wont critique their own welds properly..... There was A guy I had working for me, who thought he could weld, and would defy you to this day that he could. His bead didnt look that bad, he had practice, but never got penetration. Always welded cold.... and once I tried to tell him otherwise he got quite upset. Point is if you pass the class at the the community college, at least they should have a handle on showing you how to make a decent weld, and prep, which is the most important part in my mind. I have never gone to a community college for welding classes so i would not know how good they are. I know hobart, and lincoln both offer excellent classes, but they are fairly expensive. Sometimes, even your local welding supply store will have classes once a month for $100 I havent gone to those either but I can imagine its better then shooting from the hip. Good Luck

z28mccrory

iTrader: (7)

There is a huge difference between penetration, and melting a hole in something.

94zgreenmachine

iTrader: (2)

Miller 211.
http://millerwelds.com/products/mig/...c_211_autoset/

Believe it or not the auto set feature is close. I was skeptical. On stainless it was fairly close but for mild steel, I was impressed. You can also get a spool gun so aluminum is also possible.

Here is a good link to a website for fairly cheap.
http://cyberweld.com/
I got the machine, shipped to me and a $75 dollar rebate for $975. They aren't going to get much better than a Miller.

99345hp

depends on the size of the hole. I would rather struggle a little welding across a joint using too much heat, than weld to cold and be able to break the weld easily.

BusDriver

I think he means blowing through, that you do want to avoid.

the 140 is a top notch machine for the cost. It'll serve well for many years.

Get the C25 gas (75/25 Argon mix) and solid wire, flux core is great in it's place but welding thin auto sheet metal is NOT it's place.

Buy a tank, the largest you can get. Cost to refill isn't much more for a 160CF tank versus a 40 or 80, but you get a LOT more gas, and when you own it you don't pay rent if it's not being used for awhile.

Get TIG gloves (thinner and easier to maneuver in) and an auto dark helmet. Doing automotive you probably don't need thick gloves, aprons and jackets. You aren't doing things that throw tons of big sparks and drop hot slag. Just wear a good long sleeve work shirt you don't mind getting damaged from sparks.

One thing I do recommend that I don't see above, is one of the silly looking welders caps. They have a thin bill and can be worn any way to protect your ears and such when welding in odd positions, plus they keep sparks from burning your tender scalp when they hop over the welding helmet. This is distracting, at the least.

Also, ALWAYS wear safety glasses and IMO earplugs (even if you just wear them loosely), sparks suck.

i love mine.

99345hp

All of the advice he gave you is good. All of the safety gear is especially helpful in keeping your skin from getting burnt. Sparks in your ears sucks really bad. I know from experience.

JD Race Cars

The Hobart welder is almost a carbon copy of the Miller welders, most of the parts interchange. We have two Miller 180s and a Miller 210 and the 180s have been in service every day for the past eight years. The only issues have been normal maintnance such as triggers, liners and such. If you plan on doing any chassis work at all later down the road purchase the 230v version. People who do garage work will swear to you they can weld a chassis car with a 110, but the truth is it does not have the sufficiant ampherage to penetrate properly and they will fail due to this fact. Definately check out Cyberweld.com and when you start learning check out Millerwelds.com they have very good help sections that are easy to understand! Good luck, you will not regret the investment!

jetlag

iTrader: (32)

I was going to get a Hobart Handler 140, but decided to just go ahead and get the HH187.

At first, I was using fluxcore til the spool ran out then the switch was made to C25. Maybe it's just me, but fluxcore is easier than MIG...haha maybe because I'm still learning.

I made a 220v extension cord and just unplug my dryer and use that outlet when welding.

www.weldingweb.com is a great source of information also.

Derek@BPP

They interchange because Miller now owns Hobart....

Starting out it's a good welder for the money. You will know when you are ready to step up to a better machine. At that point look into a Miller or Lincoln.