I looking at the kits from 84 Lumber and plan to build it myself (with help from friends)... 38' wide by 30' deep with two 16' x9' doors. Plan to have a 12' ceiling height for future installation of a lift.
Right now I am getting estimates on pouring and forming the concrete slab.
Has anyone else built a garage themselves and if so do you have any suggestions, ie. layout, any pitfalls, or foresight for future additions to the garage.
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the only thing i could see that would be a major concern atleast to me is the garage doors because depending on the kind you get you might not be able to use your lift with the door open. thats a pain out here in oklahoma during the summer when its about 100 or more outside. i'm planning on trying to build a shop out of metal one of these days i know that the way to save money on metal buildings is to make sure you to know what sizes the material comes in that way you save time cutting by making the building a little taller or shorter. since you talk about a kit i assume that the cutting is done already which is nice and easy. how much is the kit goin to cost you.
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As your building inspector checks your design, ask them if they have any suggestions, or comments.
Study the window and doorway locations and ask yourself if these would work better in a different location than the one shown on your drawing. In my own case, I ended up moving a door to the other side of my garage for security purposes.
Let's see..you'll probably want at least a dual 8 gauge wire to accommodate 220v electrical. Then, a few pair of shielded phone line for future use. A cable coax (who doesn't like TV?) I used 2" PVC pipe to contain all of these wires. The 2" pipe wasn't large enough to make easy installation. Next time, I'd go for the larger size pipe.
You mentioned that you'll be adding trusses(later on?). Each town has a limit on the square footage, and height on additional buildings. These limits are based on existing land size, and your new building's proximity to your land boundries. Verify how high you'll be able to go with a truss, especially if you want to walk completely upright.
Finally, get a concrete guy that has a great reputation. Foundation is everything. I had mine install 8 inches of stone which was hammered flat. He thought I was a nut (and I might just be!), but there is not even one spider crack in the entire foundation six years later. Good luck! Glenn
Sounds like fun. I bought one of their kits a few years ago for a 30x28 garage. It worked out nice. Make sure your walls come with plywood and not just the insulation board on the outside. And make sure you get windows big enough to fit an AC unit in if you want later on. They are pretty flexible with additions and customizing it to your needs. And the kit is very complete, nails, shingles, paper for roof, siding, etc. Oh, and make sure you have quite a few friends to help out. Can be a bit much at times.... Good luck!!
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I would go big on the concrete, especially if you want to use a
2-post lift. And watch those concrete guys, I had a somewhat
shady crew form & pour a side drive and those weasels made
the forms 3" deep and called it (and wrote the bill for) 4".
I got out there the night before the pour & scraped out the extra
inch of dirt with the flat shovel. The truck was a little
short but it was not my problem.
Still cracked, though. Road mesh and 4" slab is only good for
light duty. 6" and rebar, baby.
When I made my shed I poured it 6" in the flat and made 12"
I know a guy I used to work with had one built, he planned
ahead for the lift and got one that lets him store one car
overhead and park another underneath. Good if your
overhead car doesn't drip a lot of oil, I guess....
An overhead girder for a shop trolley crane would be
Those industrial doors that roll up won't bind your overhead
space as much as a residential garage door. You might be
able to find surplus.
Sorry to be a pest, but I wanted to reiterate the point of laying down a solid, vibrated base UNDER your slab. An extra six inches of the proper stone is the difference between strong and weak concrete. My contractor claimed he laid down 5 inches of concrete to insure that I received enough. After he had carved out the area, I measured/checked level all around to insure the amount.
if i built myself a garage even similar to that id have no wife as I'd never be inside with her Id always be working on my car nice work...when i finally move out of jersey I plan on building something similar to that...metal garage 3 bays 1 w/ lift...laying concrete can be alot of money but if you know people that know people you can get it laid on the cheap...we did mine for less than a grand its like a 20X20 slab 8inches deep 6 inches of stone plus mesh...not bad when youve got connections hehe.
I built a 3 bay 2 story garage afew years back. Got the plans from Lowe's. It was not too hard at all. Here are a few things to look for that aren't necessarily in the plans in most cases. When you pour the floor, be sure to make your highest point in the floor inside from where the garage doors are to shut. This is especially important if you plan on putting floor drains in the garage. Every time it rains now I have a little water that runs under the garage door to get to the drain from outside because I sloped it up from the drain to just outside the door. I could have probably helped to remedy this problem when I poured the approach, but at that time it hadn't rained at all for months and there were no doors on the garage yet. Other things I really like about my garage... Urinal, Heater, Insulation, Old House stereo w/ surround sound, Enough electrical to power ANY welder, Air Compressor , or anything else I would ever need to use probably all at the same time. I have an outlet every 6' and plenty of workbench space. I would reccommend storage shelves, and racks galore to keep all the clutter that WILL end up in the garage somewhat organised. Lifts are great, and with a 12' ceiling you should be good there, A/C is awesome, even if it's just a cheap fedders window unit mounted in the wall, nice to stay cool. do not put a brushed finish on the concrete floor, you'll wish you hadn't. Another thing to look at with the concrete. if you are planning on putting a lift in one of the bays eventually, I would reccommend that you do a little lift shopping now and pick out a couple you like and get some dimensions. Use those dimensions to plan where the bases of the lift will meet the floor and form the concrete a little deeper in those areas so as to make a thick *** pad to set the lift on and bolt it down to as you don't want to crack the floor, and cutting your floor to rebuild under the lift I'm sure would be no fun. Hmmmm I think that's all I can come up with off the top of my head. Oh one more thing. If you do drywall it by chance, paint the walls white and use a lot of lights. Nice to be able to see.
Just make sure you have some good reinforcement and enough of the RIGHT kind of concrete where the lift will be... This is sooooo very important, it's cannot be reitereated and repeated and empasized enough....
Glad to hear you'r building one! Wish I had the land to do it too!