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Old 03-01-2010, 12:27 AM   #1
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Question Best GLUE for automotive plastics?

Seems like every time I take some plastic part off of my car some little tab breaks off , that being said what is some SUPER glue for plastics, not the walmart super glue, some killer strong glue for automotive type plastics?
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Old 03-01-2010, 01:57 AM   #2
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Don't quote me, but I think when a friend fixed some interior pieces, he used Gorilla that you see at HD all the time. I have a console I should try it out on.
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Old 03-01-2010, 03:03 AM   #3
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gorilla glue expands and even though it gets hard it also gets brittle and snaps just like plastic. I prefer any type of 2 part epoxy that you mix together or jb weld works well also...
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Old 03-02-2010, 08:57 AM   #4
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My preference is 2 part epoxy. You can also reinforce the crack with a piece of fiberglass cloth. You can also use fiberglass cloth with super glue, which is a lot quicker, but more prone to cracking. The fiberglass cloth and epoxy has some give to it whereas the fiberglass cloth and superglue tends to crack instead of flex.
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Old 03-02-2010, 09:02 AM   #5
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I have had great experience with Plastix, which is basically a 2 part epoxy. I have heard of people using fiberglass clothe with great success, however I have never tried it.
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Old 03-02-2010, 09:07 AM   #6
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When i worked at home depot a few years ago i did a couple demo's of 2part epoxy's. There a few different brands that HD has, but they will hold just about anything together
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Old 03-02-2010, 09:19 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G-Body View Post
My preference is 2 part epoxy. You can also reinforce the crack with a piece of fiberglass cloth. You can also use fiberglass cloth with super glue, which is a lot quicker, but more prone to cracking. The fiberglass cloth and epoxy has some give to it whereas the fiberglass cloth and superglue tends to crack instead of flex.
I agree.....
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Old 03-02-2010, 10:40 PM   #8
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i have a plastic welder at work. its amazing. kinda like a soldering iron, use it on the back side and it melts the plastic back into 1 peice
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Old 03-07-2010, 10:57 PM   #9
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On interior parts Hot Glue works great, If you make a backing plate from scrap, and use the Industrial Strength glue, not the normal craft stuff. The heat melts the plastic and then glues it together. I've made many tabs and such and they hold better than new.
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Old 03-11-2010, 09:20 PM   #10
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I used premium grade construction adhesive to glue parts to my stock plastic intake manifold. The parts will not come off. It is urethane based, look for that on the label. It's a completely different formulation from Liquid Nails. It cost twice as much as Liquid Nails, about $4 instead of $2.
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Old 03-11-2010, 10:02 PM   #11
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i vote replace the plastic piece most of them are relatively inexpensive

i know its not what you asked its just my preference now cuz im tired of gluing my fingers to everything im using super glue on
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Old 03-14-2010, 10:47 AM   #12
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Go to a hobby shop, the r/c airplane guys use it alot (i had one when i was a kid).

It's good plus you can buy a spray called accelerator, not sure the exact name, it basically makes it dry even quicker and I think makes it stronger too. You can hear it cracking and tightening up when you spray it, pretty crazy stuff.

The one I used had a blue or purple top, but they make different ones for different stuff. Like the one guy said it makes it warm and helps melt it and yeah dont get it on ur hands. It feels like second skin and will stay on your fingers for days.
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Old 03-14-2010, 12:02 PM   #13
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Depending on what you are trying to do, weatherstrip
adhesive (basically black contact cement) may do the
job; I like it for things like speaker grilles because it
kills the buzzing, and it stays flexible.

If you can find 3M marine adhesive, that stuff won't
let go for anything but a knife. I've seen it in black,
though white is easier to find (tan, you're on your
own - though "Liquid Nails" (construction adhesive)
is close.
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Old 03-17-2010, 11:53 AM   #14
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Well after much reading and since it was under $5 I tried loctite's plastic bonder, its a 2 part kit and so far it seams to work good. After I did the repairs, I went back and used my glue gun to "reinforce" the glue joints, worked for me, YMMV
Click the image to open in full size.
Product specs:
LoctiteŽ All Plastics is an advanced plastic bonding system that repairs any plastic surfaces guaranteed
LoctiteŽ All Plastics works on all hard and soft plastics. It even bonds hard-to-bond polyethylene and polyproplyne materials
All Plastics also bonds plastic to other materials such as metal, wood, paper, and ceramics
All Plastics is easy to use. Simply apply the Activator using the felt-tip applicator, wait 1 minute, and apply the Glue!
LoctiteŽ All Plastics is an advanced adhesive system for super strong rapid bonding. Works on all-plastics/all-materials including hard to bond polyethylene and polypropylene. No mixing required. Simply prime and glue.

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Old 03-26-2010, 03:37 AM   #15
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Cool...my T/A rear bumper had cracked. I ll try on superglue with cloth..
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Old 07-16-2013, 05:25 AM   #16
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I recently had to put a piece of plastic back on my bumper together after it broke. I would always use gorilla glue or crazy glue religiously without thinking about other alternatives. I just figured that is what you suppose to use.

After reading this post I am going to try epoxy. I been reading other places and that type of glue is also recommended.
http://deviceraters.com/top-3-glue-for-plastic/

I going to try buy epoxy and see how it holds up, if not I'll just stick to what I been using before.
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Old 07-16-2013, 05:25 AM
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adhesive, applications, automobile, automotive, car, fiberglass, glue, gluing, grade, hard, hot, industrial, interior, plastic, plastics, weilding


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