Anyone rebuild the craftsman jack?
07-14-2009, 08:26 PM
#2
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i would also like to know this as i have a larin jack that likes to creep down. Its an aluminum racing jack so it seems to nice to just pitch, when i can prolly just change a seal or two.
07-15-2009, 06:20 PM
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I searched and was unable to find any replacement-part info
for my big floor jack, even called Sears repair centers and
parts operations. I guess if the O-rings are generic enough
you could get them at Ace or something. But if anyone has
a source or P/N info that'd be a step forward. My 3-ton got
submerged in a flood and hasn't worked since.
for my big floor jack, even called Sears repair centers and
parts operations. I guess if the O-rings are generic enough
you could get them at Ace or something. But if anyone has
a source or P/N info that'd be a step forward. My 3-ton got
submerged in a flood and hasn't worked since.
07-15-2009, 08:07 PM
#7
I searched and was unable to find any replacement-part info
for my big floor jack, even called Sears repair centers and
parts operations. I guess if the O-rings are generic enough
you could get them at Ace or something. But if anyone has
a source or P/N info that'd be a step forward. My 3-ton got
submerged in a flood and hasn't worked since.
for my big floor jack, even called Sears repair centers and
parts operations. I guess if the O-rings are generic enough
you could get them at Ace or something. But if anyone has
a source or P/N info that'd be a step forward. My 3-ton got
submerged in a flood and hasn't worked since.
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07-16-2009, 12:22 AM
#8
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A neigbor threw out a like new 3 ton jack last year. It wasn't a sears but a good brand, but chinese made. I took it home and checked the fluid. Plenty but it wouldn't stay up. When I took apart the valve I found the problem.
When you tighten the release valve the screw pushes on a ball bearing, which shuts off the bypass hole.The screw was such poor metal it had worn against the ball bearing and so could no longer hold it tight.
I carefully migged a spot of weld on the end of it and now the jack works perfect.
When you tighten the release valve the screw pushes on a ball bearing, which shuts off the bypass hole.The screw was such poor metal it had worn against the ball bearing and so could no longer hold it tight.
I carefully migged a spot of weld on the end of it and now the jack works perfect.
07-17-2009, 06:25 PM
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I guess it could have been my fault as the jack was only rated and 1 1/2 tons. and i jacked up the whole front end of my 87 4x4 chevy p.u. with it. after that it never worked good again. truck weighed 5,000 but i didn't think the front would weigh over 3,000 ya know?
07-17-2009, 11:48 PM
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i have a the craftsman aluminum jack too. it doesn't mind my nova but my ford F350 not so much. i have had no frigen luck with jacks. i have a wallmart small jack here and it wont lift more then half way. i have tried to put fluid in it and i just made a mess on my floor i am at a loss
07-18-2009, 12:09 AM
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I have a Craftsman steel jack that just quit one day, no external leaks or anything. I have a generic o-ring assortment so I'll give it a shot. What kind of hydraulic oil does the jack use and where can I get it?
07-18-2009, 03:35 PM
#13
My jack works, but put any weight on it and it doesn't hold seemd like I was having puddles but couldn't see where.
Well the hyraulic actuator was easy... 4 bolts and a cotter pin to get out. The Bypass valve, just has a steel ball that seats and seals the jack so it holds. I have a feeling this is find, and if it isn't, not sure what I can do.
BUT I think I might have found a culprit... there is a screw with an o-ring on it on top of the main cylinder. Open it and you can see inside. If this were to leak, then jack woudl not hold pressure, I could potentially pump it, but, it wouldn't hold pressure. Since the oring it outside and exposed to the elements and hell was painted over so a little brittle. Maybe its the cause?
I am hopeing it is because I am sure there are 2 more internal seals but I don't have the tools to get it off. Looks like I need a 1" 1/4 or something(bigger then 1") deep socket. My 1" deep socket woudl fit but just does go over the nut on the handle side of the jack. the Jack side is huge, I have a way oversized set of channel locks, I put them on it and was spinning my vice even locked down, hit the bump stop and I was pushing hard and I was worried I was going to pull my vice out of the table so I stopped.
I might just replace the 2 seals I got to, mainly the one on top of the main cylinder and fill it up and see what happens. It would have been a cool safety device if ti was designed to blow this seal out instead of an internal one.
Well the hyraulic actuator was easy... 4 bolts and a cotter pin to get out. The Bypass valve, just has a steel ball that seats and seals the jack so it holds. I have a feeling this is find, and if it isn't, not sure what I can do.
BUT I think I might have found a culprit... there is a screw with an o-ring on it on top of the main cylinder. Open it and you can see inside. If this were to leak, then jack woudl not hold pressure, I could potentially pump it, but, it wouldn't hold pressure. Since the oring it outside and exposed to the elements and hell was painted over so a little brittle. Maybe its the cause?
I am hopeing it is because I am sure there are 2 more internal seals but I don't have the tools to get it off. Looks like I need a 1" 1/4 or something(bigger then 1") deep socket. My 1" deep socket woudl fit but just does go over the nut on the handle side of the jack. the Jack side is huge, I have a way oversized set of channel locks, I put them on it and was spinning my vice even locked down, hit the bump stop and I was pushing hard and I was worried I was going to pull my vice out of the table so I stopped.
I might just replace the 2 seals I got to, mainly the one on top of the main cylinder and fill it up and see what happens. It would have been a cool safety device if ti was designed to blow this seal out instead of an internal one.
Last edited by MustangEater82; 07-18-2009 at 03:41 PM.
Didn't realize that I could just get it at Sears.
07-19-2009, 08:50 AM
#17
Alright, here is what I did... Kind of half assed
Symptoms, jack would pump, and jack up. Even hold small weight but anything substantial woudl crap out.
I pulled the hydraulic actuator out. (I really wish I could just buy an upgraded remanfactured one from Craftsman for like $50, would make life easier and just throw it in the frame)
I didn't have a socket big enough to pull the fitting on the pump side, so I left it. Its larger then 1 in and likely metric(note made in China sticker, and other stuff was metric)
I tired to pull off the end on the actuator side but overpowered the lock on my vice, then when I hit the bumpspot I was starting to rip it out of the table so said screw it it.
There is a fill screw on the top, o-ring on the screw was kind of screwed up. Little dried out and had paint on it from manufacturing. I replaced this o-ring, and put teflon tape on the threads of the screw.
THIS COULD BE THE PROBLEM I HAD, I will see, I mean if the seal leaked here the main actuator would not hold, it would just leak out the top.
I pulled the relief valve, o-ring looked fine, and its just a screw with a ball bearing. I highly doubt the issue is here because that means the fluid is getting by the ball bearing, if thats happening no real fix for it.
I "might" have fluid coming out of the pump side. maybe it leaks slowly and just fluid loss makes it crap? I dumped most the hyrualic fluid(looked like ***) and put more in with "stopleak, and seal conditionor" Might have helped a little. I made sure to get all air out, and after 2-3 pumps/releases, thing works great.
Either way in the end... Think pumps better then I ever remembering. Testing how well it holds now. Jacked up the wifes car a little and letting it sit for 30 min. To see how it does under pressure.
THE PROBLEM
This was think was the problem on mine.
Where the relief valve is.
lifting the wheel off the ground testing it.
Symptoms, jack would pump, and jack up. Even hold small weight but anything substantial woudl crap out.
I pulled the hydraulic actuator out. (I really wish I could just buy an upgraded remanfactured one from Craftsman for like $50, would make life easier and just throw it in the frame)
I didn't have a socket big enough to pull the fitting on the pump side, so I left it. Its larger then 1 in and likely metric(note made in China sticker, and other stuff was metric)
I tired to pull off the end on the actuator side but overpowered the lock on my vice, then when I hit the bumpspot I was starting to rip it out of the table so said screw it it.
There is a fill screw on the top, o-ring on the screw was kind of screwed up. Little dried out and had paint on it from manufacturing. I replaced this o-ring, and put teflon tape on the threads of the screw.
THIS COULD BE THE PROBLEM I HAD, I will see, I mean if the seal leaked here the main actuator would not hold, it would just leak out the top.
I pulled the relief valve, o-ring looked fine, and its just a screw with a ball bearing. I highly doubt the issue is here because that means the fluid is getting by the ball bearing, if thats happening no real fix for it.
I "might" have fluid coming out of the pump side. maybe it leaks slowly and just fluid loss makes it crap? I dumped most the hyrualic fluid(looked like ***) and put more in with "stopleak, and seal conditionor" Might have helped a little. I made sure to get all air out, and after 2-3 pumps/releases, thing works great.
Either way in the end... Think pumps better then I ever remembering. Testing how well it holds now. Jacked up the wifes car a little and letting it sit for 30 min. To see how it does under pressure.
THE PROBLEM
This was think was the problem on mine.
Where the relief valve is.
lifting the wheel off the ground testing it.
07-19-2009, 08:58 AM
#18
Conclusion...
Not really leaking, maybe a tiny amount. Held wifes Cavalier up, can't tell but wheel is just off ground, for just over 30 minutes.
My Crapsman gave out on me like 2 years ago, I already bought a US general (blue aluminum race jack from harbour freight) that is holding up and working just fine.
Don't know why I never just chucked my Crapsman, but its good to see it in service again. Will always use jackstands(always did), and will use my other one as my primary jack. But it might come in handy in the future for doing something like lifting a rear axle assembly or something. I used it even in its broken conditon to help center an empty gas tank.
Probably the single most disapointed in any "tool" or tool like product I have ever bought or used in my life. Wish I researched first but thought I was good with craftsman. Lesson learned.
Not really leaking, maybe a tiny amount. Held wifes Cavalier up, can't tell but wheel is just off ground, for just over 30 minutes.
My Crapsman gave out on me like 2 years ago, I already bought a US general (blue aluminum race jack from harbour freight) that is holding up and working just fine.
Don't know why I never just chucked my Crapsman, but its good to see it in service again. Will always use jackstands(always did), and will use my other one as my primary jack. But it might come in handy in the future for doing something like lifting a rear axle assembly or something. I used it even in its broken conditon to help center an empty gas tank.
Probably the single most disapointed in any "tool" or tool like product I have ever bought or used in my life. Wish I researched first but thought I was good with craftsman. Lesson learned.
07-19-2009, 10:47 AM
#20
posted this on some others boards. On a local import board prodominantly import, replaced same ring I did on the top of the main cylinder. Fixed his.
If you are willing to wiggle around a little you can get to it without taking the entire assembly out of the jack. I suggest dumping it and refilling it.
If you are willing to wiggle around a little you can get to it without taking the entire assembly out of the jack. I suggest dumping it and refilling it.