Can anyone post a parts list & guide to convert 220V AC arc welder to DC
10-22-2015, 08:10 PM
#1
Can anyone post a parts list & guide to convert 220V AC arc welder to DC Searched the internet & found multiple ways to convert cheap Harbor freight AC to DC w/gas. Am not looking for that. Would like a parts list & guide to build something like the "DC cheater" 220V AC to DC converter box. Would buy theirs, but, out of stock & they don't know when the kit will become available. Can't find any other sources for a pre-built converter or converter parts kit. Will buy if there are other converters available. So, a link would be extremely helpful.
If no pre-organized parts kits or assembled converters are available, will need exact part numbers & manufacturer names. Suggestions like "just buy a capacitor" or "hook it up to a buzz box" don't mean anything to me. Thanks in advance.
If no pre-organized parts kits or assembled converters are available, will need exact part numbers & manufacturer names. Suggestions like "just buy a capacitor" or "hook it up to a buzz box" don't mean anything to me. Thanks in advance.
11-08-2015, 12:49 PM
#2
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Not having done this, but knowing some stuff about
electricity, I'd say to go looking for four stud-mount
high current dectifiers (big-*** diodes) of something
like 100V, 200A rating (depending on your buzz box's
max current). Put each diode on its own chunk of
aluminum heat sink (look for surplus, finned, maybe
4x4") and mount them all to an insulating structure
with fins facing in against each other, that a muffin
fan can blow across through the interior "fin tunnel".
Wire the rectifiers in full wave bridge configuration
with fat-*** cable.
Rect1 anode=AC hot cathode=DC neg
Rect2 anode=AC gnd cathode=DC neg
Rect3 cathode=AC hot anode=DC pos
Rect4 cathode=AC gnd anode=DC pos
http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...20AGI-ND/50976
is a reasonably proced ($25 ea) stud mount rectifier
that might do.
A full wave bridge rectifier module may be cheaper but
not as easy to find in big current:
http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...20G-ND/1920344
this would tend to want better heat sinking since you
will concentrate heat more densely at its source. For
any kind of duty cycle, the thermal assembly is going to
be the big deal.
electricity, I'd say to go looking for four stud-mount
high current dectifiers (big-*** diodes) of something
like 100V, 200A rating (depending on your buzz box's
max current). Put each diode on its own chunk of
aluminum heat sink (look for surplus, finned, maybe
4x4") and mount them all to an insulating structure
with fins facing in against each other, that a muffin
fan can blow across through the interior "fin tunnel".
Wire the rectifiers in full wave bridge configuration
with fat-*** cable.
Rect1 anode=AC hot cathode=DC neg
Rect2 anode=AC gnd cathode=DC neg
Rect3 cathode=AC hot anode=DC pos
Rect4 cathode=AC gnd anode=DC pos
http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...20AGI-ND/50976
is a reasonably proced ($25 ea) stud mount rectifier
that might do.
A full wave bridge rectifier module may be cheaper but
not as easy to find in big current:
http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...20G-ND/1920344
this would tend to want better heat sinking since you
will concentrate heat more densely at its source. For
any kind of duty cycle, the thermal assembly is going to
be the big deal.
11-08-2015, 06:32 PM
#3
Not having done this, but knowing some stuff about
electricity, I'd say to go looking for four stud-mount
high current dectifiers (big-*** diodes) of something
like 100V, 200A rating (depending on your buzz box's
max current). Put each diode on its own chunk of
aluminum heat sink (look for surplus, finned, maybe
4x4") and mount them all to an insulating structure
with fins facing in against each other, that a muffin
fan can blow across through the interior "fin tunnel".
Wire the rectifiers in full wave bridge configuration
with fat-*** cable.
Rect1 anode=AC hot cathode=DC neg
Rect2 anode=AC gnd cathode=DC neg
Rect3 cathode=AC hot anode=DC pos
Rect4 cathode=AC gnd anode=DC pos
http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...20AGI-ND/50976
is a reasonably proced ($25 ea) stud mount rectifier
that might do.
A full wave bridge rectifier module may be cheaper but
not as easy to find in big current:
http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...20G-ND/1920344
this would tend to want better heat sinking since you
will concentrate heat more densely at its source. For
any kind of duty cycle, the thermal assembly is going to
be the big deal.
electricity, I'd say to go looking for four stud-mount
high current dectifiers (big-*** diodes) of something
like 100V, 200A rating (depending on your buzz box's
max current). Put each diode on its own chunk of
aluminum heat sink (look for surplus, finned, maybe
4x4") and mount them all to an insulating structure
with fins facing in against each other, that a muffin
fan can blow across through the interior "fin tunnel".
Wire the rectifiers in full wave bridge configuration
with fat-*** cable.
Rect1 anode=AC hot cathode=DC neg
Rect2 anode=AC gnd cathode=DC neg
Rect3 cathode=AC hot anode=DC pos
Rect4 cathode=AC gnd anode=DC pos
http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...20AGI-ND/50976
is a reasonably proced ($25 ea) stud mount rectifier
that might do.
A full wave bridge rectifier module may be cheaper but
not as easy to find in big current:
http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...20G-ND/1920344
this would tend to want better heat sinking since you
will concentrate heat more densely at its source. For
any kind of duty cycle, the thermal assembly is going to
be the big deal.
Thanks for the reply. Hadn't been able to find "how to, including parts" info. prior to your post, so bought an inverter DC arc welder late last week. Have a lot of aluminum parts designed & cut, awaiting welding so that we can get 'em on the car before it gets too cold.
Thanks again, I appreciate your time & effort.
