Flywheel locking tool?
#1
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Flywheel locking tool?
Hello yall i am looking for a good flywheel locking tool. I am getting ready for a cam swap soon. Does anybody know were i can get a good one from? Will this one work well? http://www.jegs.com//cgi-bin/ncommer...96&prmenbr=361
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog
Which one should i get our could somone tell me were to get a better one?
Thanks
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog
Which one should i get our could somone tell me were to get a better one?
Thanks
#2
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The Kent Moore is the best but you have to buy it straight throught them (check acouple of threads down). They are kind of pricey and I was going to buy one but I've heard of a few people using that Jeg's tool so I'm trying that one first. Although, I'm not sure if it actually locks onto the teeth or you have to have someone hold it.
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Just my opinion... I wouldn't suggest buying a locking tool (especially if it still requires someone to hold it under the car). I did the same thing last weekend. I used one of my smaller prybars (about 10" long) and used it as a wedge in the flexplate. The prybar has a nice wide edge, so it won't slide out of the flexplate teeth. A buddy pulled the bolt loose with a 1/2" breaker bar. Not much effort at all. The money is probably better spent on a good valvespring tool.
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i have to agree. both before and after i had air tools, i used a small 1/2 extension. 1/2 is the thickest (yes i know theres larger, talkin about what most people have in garage) and the shorter the stronger in this kinda regard. ive used it in both the flex plate and the pulley, granted it may not be the best, but ive never had one break, infact i once broke a breaker bar (haha) on the crank bolt and the extension was just fine where it was. however i cant think of a way off hand to get the asp pulley off without some sort of tool or impact.
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My crank bolt was in very tight. I needed a 4-foot lead pipe and a long 1/2 breaker bar and still had trouble.... My M6 factory clutch held, however.
Make sure this is very tight when you finish. My motor squeeked for months after and I kept thinking it was a bad pulley. Turns out, it was a crank bolt that was not tight to factory specs (200lbs????).
Make sure this is very tight when you finish. My motor squeeked for months after and I kept thinking it was a bad pulley. Turns out, it was a crank bolt that was not tight to factory specs (200lbs????).
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Originally Posted by robertbartsch
My crank bolt was in very tight. I needed a 4-foot lead pipe and a long 1/2 breaker bar and still had trouble.... My M6 factory clutch held, however.
Make sure this is very tight when you finish. My motor squeeked for months after and I kept thinking it was a bad pulley. Turns out, it was a crank bolt that was not tight to factory specs (200lbs????).
Make sure this is very tight when you finish. My motor squeeked for months after and I kept thinking it was a bad pulley. Turns out, it was a crank bolt that was not tight to factory specs (200lbs????).
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I use my buddies who is a GM tech at a local dealer. It bolts in where the starter goes and has teeth that lock into the flywheel. I am sure it's a dealer issued tool or something, but it's the best I have come across.
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Originally Posted by Derek98z
I use my buddies who is a GM tech at a local dealer. It bolts in where the starter goes and has teeth that lock into the flywheel. I am sure it's a dealer issued tool or something, but it's the best I have come across.
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Originally Posted by Derek98z
I use my buddies who is a GM tech at a local dealer. It bolts in where the starter goes and has teeth that lock into the flywheel. I am sure it's a dealer issued tool or something, but it's the best I have come across.