welder
05-12-2005, 10:22 PM
#1
Flossin' twin turbos
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welder i thinking about purchasing this one http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=91811
would work for doing subframe connectors and other things of that thickness.what else would i need and would it work with a household outlets?
would work for doing subframe connectors and other things of that thickness.what else would i need and would it work with a household outlets?
05-13-2005, 09:44 AM
#2
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shoot, if that thing works even halfway good that's a decent deal....you'll need 220 power though.....i don't know a lot about those smaller portable welders, but if 90 amps is the most you are gonna get for stick and 130 for tig, it kinda limits you on what you can do.......the similar lincolns and millers cost way more, but i think you can use regular outlets and 220 and they have a much wider range of output amps and options...
you would need to get the gas/bottle/valve for the welder itself and then obviously electrodes/filler/helmet/gloves ect to actually weld anything....
you would need to get the gas/bottle/valve for the welder itself and then obviously electrodes/filler/helmet/gloves ect to actually weld anything....
12-06-2005, 06:09 AM
#5
i think some of the turbomustang guys got that, it worked, they built headers with it wo it might do what you want it to do, just have to worry will it hold up (but then your only out $300 not over $1000)
and you cant weld aluminum, so if you just need to do steel.
and you cant weld aluminum, so if you just need to do steel.
12-09-2005, 02:56 PM
#7
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Did you get it? I'm interested in it also. I plan on getting myself a TIG for christmas. So, I can build my turbo this winter. I wonder if it'll do stainless?
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12-15-2005, 04:25 AM
#9
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dude, I finished my Subframe Connector install with my 100 amp Easy MIG.
bought it from Harbor Freight
its a flux-wire type.
I will say that I accidently touched a fuel line for half a second.
So you better put something over the fuel lines and be VERY careful!!
you have to have the suspension fully loaded.
you need to know alot about electricity to be safe.
use the pulling technique with a MIG.
bought it from Harbor Freight
its a flux-wire type.
I will say that I accidently touched a fuel line for half a second.
So you better put something over the fuel lines and be VERY careful!!
you have to have the suspension fully loaded.
you need to know alot about electricity to be safe.
use the pulling technique with a MIG.
12-15-2005, 08:43 AM
#11
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Originally Posted by ezrollin
dude, I finished my Subframe Connector install with my 100 amp Easy MIG.
bought it from Harbor Freight
its a flux-wire type.
I will say that I accidently touched a fuel line for half a second.
So you better put something over the fuel lines and be VERY careful!!
you have to have the suspension fully loaded.
you need to know alot about electricity to be safe.
use the pulling technique with a MIG.
bought it from Harbor Freight
its a flux-wire type.
I will say that I accidently touched a fuel line for half a second.
So you better put something over the fuel lines and be VERY careful!!
you have to have the suspension fully loaded.
you need to know alot about electricity to be safe.
use the pulling technique with a MIG.
Im new to welding..so i read a lot of the posts to learn...what is suspension?? is that something with the welder..or the actual suspesion on the car..
Thanks
12-15-2005, 04:29 PM
#12
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if you accidently touch the fuel lines, it will burn through
welding torches get above 5000*F!
BIG badda boom!!
by suspension, i mean, all 4 wheels have to be level, and loaded.
i've got instructions from UMI on installing them, if you'd like to see.
it sucks being under a car when all that welding flux-wire is burning
through your clothes then through your skin.
leather clothes are good.
use a drag pulling technique on your pool of weld.
welding torches get above 5000*F!
BIG badda boom!!
by suspension, i mean, all 4 wheels have to be level, and loaded.
i've got instructions from UMI on installing them, if you'd like to see.
it sucks being under a car when all that welding flux-wire is burning
through your clothes then through your skin.
leather clothes are good.
use a drag pulling technique on your pool of weld.
12-15-2005, 04:51 PM
#13
Why would you want such a low quality welder? I weld for a living and no way i would run a lowtech china welder. When it comes to welding dont play around run top quality stuff. I perosonaly own a milller dynasty 200dx. I SMAW my subframe connectors with 6011. If you are seirous about welding get yourself a quality welder. You can get yourself a good lincoln electric MGAW machine for around 500. And a ac/dc 200 amp SMAW welder for around 500 as well.The lincoln and Miller machines last many years with quality peformance. Our main SMAW machine is been used for 20 years and still going.
Take care
Take care
Last edited by LS1FIRE; 12-16-2005 at 03:57 AM.
12-15-2005, 08:02 PM
#16
Launching!
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yup, it was made in china by charlie.
the American type name is fooling
that is funny in an ironic way
this is my second 1. the first was working
fine, until I turned up the power.
I saw a bright flash, and it was fried, I guess. (of course I took it back)
the American type name is fooling
that is funny in an ironic way
this is my second 1. the first was working
fine, until I turned up the power.
I saw a bright flash, and it was fried, I guess. (of course I took it back)
12-16-2005, 04:19 AM
#17
Couple people i know bought simmilar units and they also failed. I know somone who paid a little more for a forigen one that worked out okay dont know the company. Most places that sell Miller and Lincoln products have a warranty and repair places that specilaze in repairing them localy and parts are easly available. Quality and service is good.
12-21-2005, 12:16 PM
#18
Launching!
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i bought the lincoln 3200HD. does its a flux-core/mig welder with gas hookup. ive welded on subframes and it does a great job. also used it on headers. it will weld up to 5/16.
bought it from home depot for $450
bought it from home depot for $450
