Tig welders
02-18-2006, 08:59 PM
#1
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Tig welders looking to pick up a tig welder to mess around with welding chromoly tubing and some aluminum.
came arcross the Miller MAXSTAR 150 STL, TIG/STICK, 120-230VAC
has anyone used one of theese? or should i be looking for something different?
came arcross the Miller MAXSTAR 150 STL, TIG/STICK, 120-230VAC
has anyone used one of theese? or should i be looking for something different?
02-18-2006, 09:01 PM
#2
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02-19-2006, 01:11 AM
#4
i'd definately get a AC machine, and with high frequency start. scratch start tends to become a real pain if your stopping and starting alot. every 3 starts you have to resharpen the tungsten....gets old.
Im looking for one also. Im looking at either the lincoln precision 185 or the miller syncrowave 200. I wouldnt recomend anything smaller. I borrowed my freinds maxstar the little carry one in a suitcase. its ok to do something small (real small), but i used it to do a roll cage. It heated up extremely fast. it seemed more like a toy.
Im looking for one also. Im looking at either the lincoln precision 185 or the miller syncrowave 200. I wouldnt recomend anything smaller. I borrowed my freinds maxstar the little carry one in a suitcase. its ok to do something small (real small), but i used it to do a roll cage. It heated up extremely fast. it seemed more like a toy.
02-19-2006, 01:17 AM
#5
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Dynasty or nothing at all!!! I have been building racecars, professionally, for 5 years, and I would suggest the Miller Dynasty 200DX Inverter for several reasons... It has AC and DC outputs, pulse-weld capability, and it will accept 100-500VAC single or 3 phase. It is lightweight(45lbs.) and substantially smaller than a transformer-type unit.
I paid around $3700 for my setup, but I made that investment back in 5 months. If you are serious about welding, the Dynasty is the only way to go. It has the most features for the money.
Short of that, the Miller Syncrowave 200 is a nice unit for around $2500. I used one for 2 years.
Either way, you will be able to make some great welds.
I paid around $3700 for my setup, but I made that investment back in 5 months. If you are serious about welding, the Dynasty is the only way to go. It has the most features for the money.
Short of that, the Miller Syncrowave 200 is a nice unit for around $2500. I used one for 2 years.
Either way, you will be able to make some great welds.
02-19-2006, 03:50 PM
#6
GenIIINova, have you ever had a problem with the HF start on your Dynasts 200DX? I have a Dynasty 300 DX and lately the HF start only works when the machine has been off all night...if it's on for more than 5 minutes I have to scratch start it...I'm getting sick of it...guess it's time to send it in for service.
02-19-2006, 08:13 PM
#7
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HF start The only problem I have wigh HF start is in the tip. I use HF 90% of the time, but I sometimes have to tap the electrode on the work piece to clear slag off of the electrode tip. If I have to do this, the work is usually in need of cleaning. Try touching the tip to the part, as if to start an arc(SMAW) just before you begin the pass. Otherwise, the "scratch start" works quite well.
By the way, might I ask what you paid for the setup? And have used a comparable TIG Welder of another brand?
By the way, might I ask what you paid for the setup? And have used a comparable TIG Welder of another brand?
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02-19-2006, 09:17 PM
#8
I should clarify...it isn't mine, I run the machine shop at an engineering school and it's the schools...the only other TIG I've spent significant time welding with is an old Miller Synchrowave 250...I've used a bunch, but I only have actual welding time on the synchrowave and the dynasty...seems the old synchrowave HF start is just more robust or something.
02-20-2006, 03:59 PM
#9
I just got some price quotes today on welders. the miller syncrowave 180 is last years model.. they gave me price of $1650 w/ running gear and all accesories. the syncrowave 200 is 2006 model replaces the 180. has a few more options, pulse control, thats about it. it goes for $1834. with everything.
Lincolns version of the same size is the precision 185 wich is also $1650 with the wheels and accesories. and this has the same options as the snyncrowave 200.
Im going to start a new thread with pros and cons on what welder is better. I need to know.
but these welders are good for what you would want, anything less would be a toy and anything more would be for more options that most people never use and for bigger amperage machines.
Lincolns version of the same size is the precision 185 wich is also $1650 with the wheels and accesories. and this has the same options as the snyncrowave 200.
Im going to start a new thread with pros and cons on what welder is better. I need to know.
but these welders are good for what you would want, anything less would be a toy and anything more would be for more options that most people never use and for bigger amperage machines.
02-20-2006, 06:56 PM
#10
The HF start was an issue that miller knows about. I have 2 dynasty 200s, one older one, and one newer one with the new board. It has HF issues and needs to go back 
The oldie goldie had a 2 year warranty and never an issue.
http://www.millermotorsports.com/mbo...ead.php?t=4814 for your HF problem
The oldie goldie had a 2 year warranty and never an issue.
http://www.millermotorsports.com/mbo...ead.php?t=4814 for your HF problem
02-20-2006, 07:02 PM
#11
http://www.millermotorsports.com/mbo...UMINUM+PROBLEM
Andy, the motorsports guy at Miller states that they had an issue with caps in some of their boards, may be related.
Andy, the motorsports guy at Miller states that they had an issue with caps in some of their boards, may be related.
02-21-2006, 12:17 AM
#12
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It's good to know about the HF issue on the Dynasty 200. I was building an Aluminum intake this evening(using AC, of course) , and I noticed the starting problem... I still think that the HF start problems, at least on my machine, are from slag on the tip. I could always scratch the electrode to the workpiece just before I started the arc, and I would get a crisp start. Otherwise the arc would sputter for a few seconds before stabilizing.
Do you notice the starting problems on AC and/or DC?
Does "scratch start" eliminate this problem?
Do you notice the starting problems on AC and/or DC?
Does "scratch start" eliminate this problem?
02-21-2006, 01:29 AM
#13
Louis, thank you very much for the link, hopefully I can get this machine fixed ASAP. GenIIINova...I have the starting problem on AC and DC...even on a freshly ground tip. Scratching it before I try to start an arc doesn't seem to have any effect on it other than to dull my tip when welding steel.
02-21-2006, 08:25 PM
#14
On AC for welding aluminum, the HF should be on continuous. Ive been researching to see what welders have that capability of switching from start to cont. I guess the new miller synrowave have HF and dont have a switch for it, it automatically switchs to continuous when you switch it to AC.
If your having probs with HF start, adjust the HF intensity. you can turn it up some to overcome the hard start.
If your having probs with HF start, adjust the HF intensity. you can turn it up some to overcome the hard start.
03-19-2006, 01:09 AM
#16
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i've been looking at the maxstar 150 cause it's for 115v but i hear you can't weld aluminum well with it. so i also considered the econotig but it runs off a 230. what other options do i have this mainly for home projects.
