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What tools are you guys using to Gasket match?

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Old 11-05-2007, 03:07 PM   #1
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Default What tools are you guys using to Gasket match?

What tools are needed to gasket match heads? I have a really nice dremel set up. Can I get away with that or will I need something more heavy duty. I don't want to do lots of sets, just want to gasket match my L92 heads to the GM carb intake. POSSIBLY smooth out some stuff in the intake path of the heads. Thanks guys!
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Old 11-05-2007, 03:38 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by 508Stroker View Post
What tools are needed to gasket match heads? I have a really nice dremel set up. Can I get away with that or will I need something more heavy duty. I don't want to do lots of sets, just want to gasket match my L92 heads to the GM carb intake. POSSIBLY smooth out some stuff in the intake path of the heads. Thanks guys!
I should also mention I read the thread a few down from mine. Some good info there.
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Old 11-09-2007, 01:06 PM   #3
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J&L industrial sells carbide burrs meant specifically for aluminum and have an 1/8" shank that will work in a dremel. For just a pair of heads a dremel should be adequate. When I get to work I'll edit this post with a part number for J&L's aluminum burrs. You can also use a double or single cut standard carbide burr available at most hardware stores if you use grease/parrafin to lube the flutes to keep them from getting packed full of aluminum. Then just some simple sandpaper flap wheels to get it super smooth.
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Old 11-09-2007, 04:20 PM   #4
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The only carbide burrs I could find in my catalog are 1/4 shank. I'm almost 100% sure you can't get a 1/4" collet for a dremel but I could be wrong. Either way J&L part number BUA-10310L should be a good bit for gasket matching if you need to remove a lot of material, if not check out Standard Abrasives, they have cylinder head porting kits that come with all the flap wheels and sanding rolls needed.
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Old 11-09-2007, 05:21 PM   #5
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I find the $71 pricetag of the SA kit pretty hefty, although its the most complete in terms of the bits you get. I know jegs also has a kit I was looking at ordering for doing that, and considerably cheaper - it also comes with the 1/8 in mandrels you can use in a dremel.

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...0002_758018_-1

Click the image to open in full size.

You can use the stone bit (that you'd usually have anyways if you have a dremel) for basic material removal and then the sand bits for smoothing/polishing it out
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Old 11-09-2007, 05:47 PM   #6
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DO NOT use a stone bit for non ferrous materials (brass, aluminum, etc) as the metal will build up on the stone and could potentially build up to the point that its far enough out of ballance to come apart. This is why no one should grind aluminum on a bench grinder and whatnot. I'm sure the risk of it happening with a small grinding stone is much smaller but I value my fingers too much to try it.
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Old 11-28-2007, 12:10 AM   #7
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The only carbide burrs I could find in my catalog are 1/4 shank. I'm almost 100% sure you can't get a 1/4" collet for a dremel but I could be wrong. Either way J&L part number BUA-10310L should be a good bit for gasket matching if you need to remove a lot of material, if not check out Standard Abrasives, they have cylinder head porting kits that come with all the flap wheels and sanding rolls needed.

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Last edited by VIP1; 11-28-2007 at 09:48 AM..
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Old 11-30-2007, 04:49 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steelwire View Post
The only carbide burrs I could find in my catalog are 1/4 shank. I'm almost 100% sure you can't get a 1/4" collet for a dremel but I could be wrong. Either way J&L part number BUA-10310L should be a good bit for gasket matching if you need to remove a lot of material, if not check out Standard Abrasives, they have cylinder head porting kits that come with all the flap wheels and sanding rolls needed.

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Could you PM me the removed link? Thanks.
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Old 11-30-2007, 04:51 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drew04GTO View Post
DO NOT use a stone bit for non ferrous materials (brass, aluminum, etc) as the metal will build up on the stone and could potentially build up to the point that its far enough out of ballance to come apart. This is why no one should grind aluminum on a bench grinder and whatnot. I'm sure the risk of it happening with a small grinding stone is much smaller but I value my fingers too much to try it.
Interesting. I guess I won't be doing that! I think I am going to be grinding quite a bit on the intake I am looking at to gasket match it. If I can't get the original tools you were speaking of, the typical sanding drums should be ok to remove what I need? Thanks for the help so far!
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Old 11-30-2007, 04:51 AM
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