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alignment specs
06-16-2009, 04:16 PM
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alignment specs hey guys im going to take my car to alignment today, i wanted to do a little toe out, since i want to take corners a little faster, is there some specs for caster, camber and toe? i dont want to wear out the tires crazy because this is my daily driver, i would like just something thats better then stock
06-16-2009, 04:22 PM
#2
hey guys im going to take my car to alignment today, i wanted to do a little toe out, since i want to take corners a little faster, is there some specs for caster, camber and toe? i dont want to wear out the tires crazy because this is my daily driver, i would like just something thats better then stock
Originally Posted by FTV6
Camber:
For street use, anything from -.5 to -1.5 camber is acceptable. Meaning, no evil handling characteristics, just progressively more grip as you head towards the -1.5 number (not all cars can get that high, I ran out of adjustment at -1.3). So, for street use (mild) we usually recommend -.5 to -.7 camber (as high as -1.0 for an "aggressive" street setup, people autocross on -1.3). We suggest a -.7 as a very good compromise for even better tire wear.
Toe:
For street use, 0 toe is good. Toe out makes the car more responsive (it wants to turn), because toe out makes it slightly unstable (not bad at all, think of balancing a ruler, standing straight up on your hand, it naturally wants to fall over, my car naturally wants to turn). 0 toe is a good compromise for street use. It makes the car slightly more responsive than it is now and it is still extremely stable.
Castor:
For street use we recommend +4.5, it keeps the steering from being too heavy and allows for a decent amount of negative camber while turning (go turn your wheels all the way to one side, notice that they are both "tilted" the same way, that's castor at work). We would not advise going lower than 4.3 nor higher than 5.0 and we really prefer 4.5 (as do many people). At 4.5 you'll have a stock steering feel, not too light and not heavier.
Mild Street Alignment:
0 Toe
-.5 Camber
+4.5 Castor
Slightly More Aggressive:
0 Toe
-.7 Camber
+4.5 Castor
Even More Aggressive:
0 Toe
-1.0 Camber
4.5 Castor
The Full Race Setup
1/32" to 3/32" Toe Out
-1.3 to -1.5 Camber (whatever max is after the castor is set at 4.5)
+4.5 Castor
Each step will be slightly worse on tire wear and will be slightly more responsive and make more total grip than the one before it. For street use, any of the first 3 work great. If you really like to beat on it around cloverleaf type exit ramps, we suggest that you go with the 3rd setup. If you are just looking for something for a cruiser and weekend driver, the 1st or 2nd are both good setup. The 4th setup will make the car very responsive, but it may hunt on uneven pavement and be "darty" at times.
For street use, anything from -.5 to -1.5 camber is acceptable. Meaning, no evil handling characteristics, just progressively more grip as you head towards the -1.5 number (not all cars can get that high, I ran out of adjustment at -1.3). So, for street use (mild) we usually recommend -.5 to -.7 camber (as high as -1.0 for an "aggressive" street setup, people autocross on -1.3). We suggest a -.7 as a very good compromise for even better tire wear.
Toe:
For street use, 0 toe is good. Toe out makes the car more responsive (it wants to turn), because toe out makes it slightly unstable (not bad at all, think of balancing a ruler, standing straight up on your hand, it naturally wants to fall over, my car naturally wants to turn). 0 toe is a good compromise for street use. It makes the car slightly more responsive than it is now and it is still extremely stable.
Castor:
For street use we recommend +4.5, it keeps the steering from being too heavy and allows for a decent amount of negative camber while turning (go turn your wheels all the way to one side, notice that they are both "tilted" the same way, that's castor at work). We would not advise going lower than 4.3 nor higher than 5.0 and we really prefer 4.5 (as do many people). At 4.5 you'll have a stock steering feel, not too light and not heavier.
Mild Street Alignment:
0 Toe
-.5 Camber
+4.5 Castor
Slightly More Aggressive:
0 Toe
-.7 Camber
+4.5 Castor
Even More Aggressive:
0 Toe
-1.0 Camber
4.5 Castor
The Full Race Setup
1/32" to 3/32" Toe Out
-1.3 to -1.5 Camber (whatever max is after the castor is set at 4.5)
+4.5 Castor
Each step will be slightly worse on tire wear and will be slightly more responsive and make more total grip than the one before it. For street use, any of the first 3 work great. If you really like to beat on it around cloverleaf type exit ramps, we suggest that you go with the 3rd setup. If you are just looking for something for a cruiser and weekend driver, the 1st or 2nd are both good setup. The 4th setup will make the car very responsive, but it may hunt on uneven pavement and be "darty" at times.
Last edited by ZexGX; 06-16-2009 at 04:28 PM.
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Matt Miller (07-01-2023)
06-16-2009, 05:44 PM
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hey Zex thanks so much dude, i looked at the stickies but i guess not hard enough. i just came back from the alignment shop, i literally printed the info you posted and i took it with me. seems like they wanted extra just because i have a camaro for some reason? so im gonna go find another shop. thanks 4 da info tho
06-16-2009, 07:38 PM
#4
hey Zex thanks so much dude, i looked at the stickies but i guess not hard enough. i just came back from the alignment shop, i literally printed the info you posted and i took it with me. seems like they wanted extra just because i have a camaro for some reason? so im gonna go find another shop. thanks 4 da info tho
I recently installed a new rack to replace my bad one with lots of free play, so I needed an alignment.
He adjusted both chamber and toe. I told him I wanted ~1* negative camber. Car drives great so far. I'm not used to having the steering wheel straight and not having the car pull to one direction.
06-16-2009, 08:53 PM
#6
I'm not sure what the GM alignment specs are but you'll want to stick with the three numbers listed (0 toe. x camber, 4.5 caster). Since you DD the car and are worried about tire wear you should use one of the first two least aggressive settings...
I'm going to be raising the nose up on mine a little bit since it's adjustable ride height, and taking it back to get it realigned for free. SOB is scraping everywhere. Can't pull into Vatozone even at an angle without scraping the SFCs!
06-16-2009, 10:59 PM
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I have a spec sheet for mine. It was a little off after the lowering spring install, toe was messed up, etc. so it shows when they first put it on the rack, and after they're finished. Make sure to ask for one.
I'm not sure what the GM alignment specs are but you'll want to stick with the three numbers listed (0 toe. x camber, 4.5 caster). Since you DD the car and are worried about tire wear you should use one of the first two least aggressive settings...
I'm going to be raising the nose up on mine a little bit since it's adjustable ride height, and taking it back to get it realigned for free. SOB is scraping everywhere. Can't pull into Vatozone even at an angle without scraping the SFCs!
I'm not sure what the GM alignment specs are but you'll want to stick with the three numbers listed (0 toe. x camber, 4.5 caster). Since you DD the car and are worried about tire wear you should use one of the first two least aggressive settings...
I'm going to be raising the nose up on mine a little bit since it's adjustable ride height, and taking it back to get it realigned for free. SOB is scraping everywhere. Can't pull into Vatozone even at an angle without scraping the SFCs!
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06-17-2009, 01:04 AM
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06-17-2009, 04:05 AM
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damm pretty low, well im gonna have to post mine up now, i think mine is lower hahaha, seems like your SFC's are low, well its better to have that scrape then something like the exhaust.
here are mine i dont have much of a scraping problem tho, except the wind deflector
here are mine i dont have much of a scraping problem tho, except the wind deflector
Last edited by ae13291; 06-17-2009 at 04:11 AM.
