So how difficult is it to bleed brakes?
01-11-2008, 07:22 PM
#1
So how difficult is it to bleed brakes? So last month i went through the process of replacing my brake pads and rotors. Ever since then my brakes have felt, here comes the word, "Smushy," so i'm pretty sure i let air into the brakes. I did a quick search on the site and found many responses saying that people had to bleed their brakes up to 3 times to get the air out, so here is my question, should i just pay a mechanic to do this for me, or should i do it myself?
01-11-2008, 07:48 PM
#2
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well get one of your friends to help you out its really easy, shouldn't take more than a few pumps at each wheel, this is of course assuming your master cylinder isn't the cause, id say do it yourself its a piece of cake
my brakes have been this way for about 3-4 years now... hmmm so this could be the issue... oh well, i've lived with it this long 
01-11-2008, 07:57 PM
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The key is to start furthest away from the master and work your way up. Have someone pump the breaks and let the air out til its just fluid. Do it a couple times at each tire. And make sure the reservoir stays full or you'll just suck more air in.
01-11-2008, 11:02 PM
#6
I don't really see how you would get air in the system changing pads and rotors.. Done it many times without issues. Boiled the brake fluid on track days a few times and within days the spongly feeling would go away as the air exited the system.
Did you replace the brake pads with something cheap?
Did you replace the brake pads with something cheap?
01-12-2008, 02:52 AM
#7
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Yeah, unless you have a leak, air wouldn't get in from just changing pads. I never bleed when changing pads, I just push the piston back with c clamps and make sure my reservoir doesn't overflow.
If you opened a line for any reason though than you gotta bleed them. All above suggestions were dead on, but I would also suggest bleeding the abs unit under your hood also. There should be 2 male ends, one for front and one for rear calipers. Than bleed back right, back left, front right, and front left lines.
You def need a partner though, and *** the mechanic, why pay when you can do and learn on your own for free??
If you opened a line for any reason though than you gotta bleed them. All above suggestions were dead on, but I would also suggest bleeding the abs unit under your hood also. There should be 2 male ends, one for front and one for rear calipers. Than bleed back right, back left, front right, and front left lines.
You def need a partner though, and *** the mechanic, why pay when you can do and learn on your own for free??
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01-12-2008, 02:59 AM
#8
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I agree, air should be getting in just from changing pads, but its not going to hurt to bleed them a bit, but if you do it wrong you are just going to let more air in. I went out and bought what are called solo bleeders from Earl's Performance. They are bleeders with check valves in them. Makes bleeding them even easier and you can do it yourself, no friends required.
PS: I would think about getting some steel braided brake lines, helps out a bit and makes breaking more predictable.
PS: I would think about getting some steel braided brake lines, helps out a bit and makes breaking more predictable.
01-12-2008, 09:24 AM
#9
I don't really see how you would get air in the system changing pads and rotors.. Done it many times without issues. Boiled the brake fluid on track days a few times and within days the spongly feeling would go away as the air exited the system.
Did you replace the brake pads with something cheap?
Did you replace the brake pads with something cheap?
Yeah, unless you have a leak, air wouldn't get in from just changing pads. I never bleed when changing pads, I just push the piston back with c clamps and make sure my reservoir doesn't overflow.
If you opened a line for any reason though than you gotta bleed them. All above suggestions were dead on, but I would also suggest bleeding the abs unit under your hood also. There should be 2 male ends, one for front and one for rear calipers. Than bleed back right, back left, front right, and front left lines.
You def need a partner though, and *** the mechanic, why pay when you can do and learn on your own for free??
If you opened a line for any reason though than you gotta bleed them. All above suggestions were dead on, but I would also suggest bleeding the abs unit under your hood also. There should be 2 male ends, one for front and one for rear calipers. Than bleed back right, back left, front right, and front left lines.
You def need a partner though, and *** the mechanic, why pay when you can do and learn on your own for free??
I agree, air should be getting in just from changing pads, but its not going to hurt to bleed them a bit, but if you do it wrong you are just going to let more air in. I went out and bought what are called solo bleeders from Earl's Performance. They are bleeders with check valves in them. Makes bleeding them even easier and you can do it yourself, no friends required.
PS: I would think about getting some steel braided brake lines, helps out a bit and makes breaking more predictable.
PS: I would think about getting some steel braided brake lines, helps out a bit and makes breaking more predictable.
01-12-2008, 09:26 AM
#10
Yeah, unless you have a leak, air wouldn't get in from just changing pads. I never bleed when changing pads, I just push the piston back with c clamps and make sure my reservoir doesn't overflow.
If you opened a line for any reason though than you gotta bleed them. All above suggestions were dead on, but I would also suggest bleeding the abs unit under your hood also. There should be 2 male ends, one for front and one for rear calipers. Than bleed back right, back left, front right, and front left lines.
You def need a partner though, and *** the mechanic, why pay when you can do and learn on your own for free??
If you opened a line for any reason though than you gotta bleed them. All above suggestions were dead on, but I would also suggest bleeding the abs unit under your hood also. There should be 2 male ends, one for front and one for rear calipers. Than bleed back right, back left, front right, and front left lines.
You def need a partner though, and *** the mechanic, why pay when you can do and learn on your own for free??
01-12-2008, 12:09 PM
#11
That should work well. If you decide to go have a shop do it I would recommend Midas. They have a good pressure system that removes all the old fluid and fills it up with new fluid. Pushes out any air as well. Fairly cheap too but depends on the area. I went there once when my fluid got reaaally old and I thought it would be a good idea.
01-12-2008, 09:14 PM
#12
Yeah, unless you have a leak, air wouldn't get in from just changing pads. I never bleed when changing pads, I just push the piston back with c clamps and make sure my reservoir doesn't overflow.
If you opened a line for any reason though than you gotta bleed them. All above suggestions were dead on, but I would also suggest bleeding the abs unit under your hood also. There should be 2 male ends, one for front and one for rear calipers. Than bleed back right, back left, front right, and front left lines.
You def need a partner though, and *** the mechanic, why pay when you can do and learn on your own for free??
If you opened a line for any reason though than you gotta bleed them. All above suggestions were dead on, but I would also suggest bleeding the abs unit under your hood also. There should be 2 male ends, one for front and one for rear calipers. Than bleed back right, back left, front right, and front left lines.
You def need a partner though, and *** the mechanic, why pay when you can do and learn on your own for free??
thats what i do as well .....hope it turns out good for you 
