2002 Z/28 A4 t-top 58k miles, Virginia/Florida car
09-16-2016, 08:24 AM
#1
2002 Z/28 A4 t-top 58k miles, Virginia/Florida car Hi guys, I recently moved to Florida from Virginia and due to some lifestyle changes, I feel it's time to put my car on the chopping block.
It's a Red '02 Z/28 A4 with ~58k miles. Has the Y3F appearance package/ground effects. I'm the second owner and bought the car when it had 19k miles on it. Clean title, no accidents.
Car is really clean, interior is in mint condition and the exterior is in very good shape, still shines like new but there are a few small blemishes here and there. No roof bubbling. Mechanically, the car needs nothing, it's been very dependable and I change the oil every 3000 - 5000 miles with Pennzoil Platinum 5W30. Air cond. works great, trans shifts nicely, no leaks anywhere.
Has new brakes in the front (pads and rotors), new 18x9.5 chrome C5 deep dish wheels with new Nitto NT555G2 275/35R18 tires with approx. 3000 miles on them. I have the stock chrome 16" wheels but they're fairly worn/pitted.
Mods are light: Founders Performance adjustable panhard bar, Founders lower rear control arms, SLP lid, SLP bolt-on sub frame connectors, SLP Loud Mouth II catback, K&N panel filter, ported throttle body. 6LE seats and brackets. I do not have the stock seats. No engine mods, still has the stock shocks and springs.
I don't know how I'm going to sell it, I haven't sold a car in years. I'm thinking cars.com or autotrader.com or a local dealer who deals with used "specialty/sports" cars. Price-wise I'm thinking $10,000. Am I way off base? Thanks for any advice guys.
It's a Red '02 Z/28 A4 with ~58k miles. Has the Y3F appearance package/ground effects. I'm the second owner and bought the car when it had 19k miles on it. Clean title, no accidents.
Car is really clean, interior is in mint condition and the exterior is in very good shape, still shines like new but there are a few small blemishes here and there. No roof bubbling. Mechanically, the car needs nothing, it's been very dependable and I change the oil every 3000 - 5000 miles with Pennzoil Platinum 5W30. Air cond. works great, trans shifts nicely, no leaks anywhere.
Has new brakes in the front (pads and rotors), new 18x9.5 chrome C5 deep dish wheels with new Nitto NT555G2 275/35R18 tires with approx. 3000 miles on them. I have the stock chrome 16" wheels but they're fairly worn/pitted.
Mods are light: Founders Performance adjustable panhard bar, Founders lower rear control arms, SLP lid, SLP bolt-on sub frame connectors, SLP Loud Mouth II catback, K&N panel filter, ported throttle body. 6LE seats and brackets. I do not have the stock seats. No engine mods, still has the stock shocks and springs.
I don't know how I'm going to sell it, I haven't sold a car in years. I'm thinking cars.com or autotrader.com or a local dealer who deals with used "specialty/sports" cars. Price-wise I'm thinking $10,000. Am I way off base? Thanks for any advice guys.
Last edited by wav3form; 09-16-2016 at 09:20 AM.
09-16-2016, 09:26 AM
#2
TECH Junkie
I think everything you have written here is 'spot on'. My only suggestion is to start the price a bit higher to allow for negotiations, otherwise people will be offering $7500 which would be a joke for a 2002 LS1 car with those miles.
I like Autotrader the best but I've actually been lucky the last two times on ebay. I think what has triggered my success, with no aggravation from the 'kiddies' playing with the listing, is to set a fixed price with 'best offer'. If you want want $10,000, ask $12,500 OBO. I don't know what your dealings are with ebay but they let me list for free. I'm not sure if that's for everyone or because I've been a member with them since 2000. If I sell the car, it's $125 fee. If you sell the car 'off ebay' after the auction ends, then there is no fee obviously. I did that with my last car. The key with ebay is the large exposure you get even if you don't sell. People ask afterwards. It's getting close to the holiday season when sales lag, so don't wait too long. Being in Florida definitely helps though.
Best of luck with the sale.
I like Autotrader the best but I've actually been lucky the last two times on ebay. I think what has triggered my success, with no aggravation from the 'kiddies' playing with the listing, is to set a fixed price with 'best offer'. If you want want $10,000, ask $12,500 OBO. I don't know what your dealings are with ebay but they let me list for free. I'm not sure if that's for everyone or because I've been a member with them since 2000. If I sell the car, it's $125 fee. If you sell the car 'off ebay' after the auction ends, then there is no fee obviously. I did that with my last car. The key with ebay is the large exposure you get even if you don't sell. People ask afterwards. It's getting close to the holiday season when sales lag, so don't wait too long. Being in Florida definitely helps though.
Best of luck with the sale.
09-16-2016, 09:44 AM
#3
I think everything you have written here is 'spot on'. My only suggestion is to start the price a bit higher to allow for negotiations, otherwise people will be offering $7500 which would be a joke for a 2002 LS1 car with those miles.
I like Autotrader the best but I've actually been lucky the last two times on ebay. I think what has triggered my success, with no aggravation from the 'kiddies' playing with the listing, is to set a fixed price with 'best offer'. If you want want $10,000, ask $12,500 OBO. I don't know what your dealings are with ebay but they let me list for free. I'm not sure if that's for everyone or because I've been a member with them since 2000. If I sell the car, it's $125 fee. If you sell the car 'off ebay' after the auction ends, then there is no fee obviously. I did that with my last car. The key with ebay is the large exposure you get even if you don't sell. People ask afterwards. It's getting close to the holiday season when sales lag, so don't wait too long. Being in Florida definitely helps though.
Best of luck with the sale.
I like Autotrader the best but I've actually been lucky the last two times on ebay. I think what has triggered my success, with no aggravation from the 'kiddies' playing with the listing, is to set a fixed price with 'best offer'. If you want want $10,000, ask $12,500 OBO. I don't know what your dealings are with ebay but they let me list for free. I'm not sure if that's for everyone or because I've been a member with them since 2000. If I sell the car, it's $125 fee. If you sell the car 'off ebay' after the auction ends, then there is no fee obviously. I did that with my last car. The key with ebay is the large exposure you get even if you don't sell. People ask afterwards. It's getting close to the holiday season when sales lag, so don't wait too long. Being in Florida definitely helps though.
Best of luck with the sale.
My main hangup is doing a local sale, I'm paranoid about getting robbed or getting non-serious joy riders but I'm a worry-wart by nature.
09-16-2016, 09:53 AM
#4
TECH Junkie
I'm sure you know about cashier's checks too so don't turn over any title until verified, especially if you can't see the micro-print on the signature line. I worked several cases like that way back in my working days (also in FL) and I'm still haunted by a $25,000 Corvette sale that ended with the seller losing everything. Absolutely no leads and the car was never recovered. Probably shipped overseas. It's awful stuff.
09-16-2016, 11:00 AM
#5
Well you are smart! Local ads can bring trouble. CL has so many bad situations arise it isn't even worth mentioning anymore. You better have a CCW permit if you proceed with one of those.
I'm sure you know about cashier's checks too so don't turn over any title until verified, especially if you can't see the micro-print on the signature line. I worked several cases like that way back in my working days (also in FL) and I'm still haunted by a $25,000 Corvette sale that ended with the seller losing everything. Absolutely no leads and the car was never recovered. Probably shipped overseas. It's awful stuff.
I'm sure you know about cashier's checks too so don't turn over any title until verified, especially if you can't see the micro-print on the signature line. I worked several cases like that way back in my working days (also in FL) and I'm still haunted by a $25,000 Corvette sale that ended with the seller losing everything. Absolutely no leads and the car was never recovered. Probably shipped overseas. It's awful stuff.
I prefer cash and if the buyer wants to use some bank drawn instrument, I'd rather go to the bank with him/her and have them do it then and there.
Thanks for the tips! I think ebay might be the way to go for right now.
09-16-2016, 02:57 PM
#6
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No need to worry about being robbed or getting some sort of funny money, once the deal has been struck you can do the entire title/cash exchange at a bank if those are your concerns - watch them withdraw the cash from a teller before they put it in your hand. Then sign the title and bill of sale, after which you can drive straight to your bank for the deposit. No worries at all this way.
09-16-2016, 04:03 PM
#7
TECH Enthusiast
$10K-$11,000 seems pretty reasonable. Your target of $10K may be what you end of getting. The first car I considered buying back in 2011 was a 2001 A4 SS SOM with 44K miles in upstate NY. Selling price was $10,500. It was a good deal at the time. Just couldn't work out the logistics of going to see it 6-8 hours away. That was probably the bottom of the LS1 car market for a couple of years.
I noted a 6 speed, 55K mile, 2001 Firehawk anniv car selling on ebay for $12,500. Check out the other WIW threads of the past few weeks or months and you'll get a better flavor of what's worth what. Check out Ebay for completed auctions, sold cars, and high bids on cars similar to yours....that didn't meet reserve. Fwiw, my 1999 SS M6 with 18K miles I would figure is worth $12,000-$12,500 right now...while 3 model years older, the 40K mile difference + M6 probably makes it worth a bit more imo.
I noted a 6 speed, 55K mile, 2001 Firehawk anniv car selling on ebay for $12,500. Check out the other WIW threads of the past few weeks or months and you'll get a better flavor of what's worth what. Check out Ebay for completed auctions, sold cars, and high bids on cars similar to yours....that didn't meet reserve. Fwiw, my 1999 SS M6 with 18K miles I would figure is worth $12,000-$12,500 right now...while 3 model years older, the 40K mile difference + M6 probably makes it worth a bit more imo.
Last edited by Firebrian; 09-16-2016 at 04:11 PM.
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09-16-2016, 08:31 PM
#8
$10K-$11,000 seems pretty reasonable. Your target of $10K may be what you end of getting. The first car I considered buying back in 2011 was a 2001 A4 SS SOM with 44K miles in upstate NY. Selling price was $10,500. It was a good deal at the time. Just couldn't work out the logistics of going to see it 6-8 hours away. That was probably the bottom of the LS1 car market for a couple of years.
I noted a 6 speed, 55K mile, 2001 Firehawk anniv car selling on ebay for $12,500. Check out the other WIW threads of the past few weeks or months and you'll get a better flavor of what's worth what. Check out Ebay for completed auctions, sold cars, and high bids on cars similar to yours....that didn't meet reserve. Fwiw, my 1999 SS M6 with 18K miles I would figure is worth $12,000-$12,500 right now...while 3 model years older, the 40K mile difference + M6 probably makes it worth a bit more imo.
I noted a 6 speed, 55K mile, 2001 Firehawk anniv car selling on ebay for $12,500. Check out the other WIW threads of the past few weeks or months and you'll get a better flavor of what's worth what. Check out Ebay for completed auctions, sold cars, and high bids on cars similar to yours....that didn't meet reserve. Fwiw, my 1999 SS M6 with 18K miles I would figure is worth $12,000-$12,500 right now...while 3 model years older, the 40K mile difference + M6 probably makes it worth a bit more imo.
I used to have a M6 2000 SS and it sold in a day when I lost my job but that was probably 15 years ago. I'm fairly impressed at how these cars haven't depreciated too terribly over the years... depending on mileage and condition obviously.