HELP:ZR1 on Camaro
01-09-2009, 05:03 PM
#1
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
HELP:ZR1 on Camaro Hey guys..
I just got a set of rims and tires zr1 17 9/11 from ebay..
they said that they are mounted and balanced.. would they fit my 2000 camaro or do i need to do some mods for them?
I just got a set of rims and tires zr1 17 9/11 from ebay..
they said that they are mounted and balanced.. would they fit my 2000 camaro or do i need to do some mods for them?
01-09-2009, 05:25 PM
#2
Teching In
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Selfoss, Iceland
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
01-11-2009, 05:37 PM
#6
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
hey guys yesterday i tried to put them on and i started with the rear (because i know they're big problem) so i saw that the bump stop gonna rub with the tire (actually it will rip it apart) .....
i want to make them fit the easiest way and cheapest .... for the panhard bar i think i need to wait to buy it ...
if i wanna run a spacer what is the smallest size and will do the job or if i wanna grind the bump stop how much i will do?
i want to make them fit the easiest way and cheapest .... for the panhard bar i think i need to wait to buy it ...
if i wanna run a spacer what is the smallest size and will do the job or if i wanna grind the bump stop how much i will do?
Trending Topics
01-11-2009, 06:01 PM
#8
hey guys yesterday i tried to put them on and i started with the rear (because i know they're big problem) so i saw that the bump stop gonna rub with the tire (actually it will rip it apart) .....
i want to make them fit the easiest way and cheapest .... for the panhard bar i think i need to wait to buy it ...
if i wanna run a spacer what is the smallest size and will do the job or if i wanna grind the bump stop how much i will do?
i want to make them fit the easiest way and cheapest .... for the panhard bar i think i need to wait to buy it ...
if i wanna run a spacer what is the smallest size and will do the job or if i wanna grind the bump stop how much i will do?
I would get the panhard NOW.
01-11-2009, 06:16 PM
#9
I bought my ss with 315's on the back and my car's been lowered so it's not unusual for my tires to rub. However, I would never consider "rolling" my fenders in, not my baby. I've considered getting a set of the 1" spacers but I have no idea how to install them, i guess I just need to check into it a little more.
01-11-2009, 10:27 PM
#10
I bought my ss with 315's on the back and my car's been lowered so it's not unusual for my tires to rub. However, I would never consider "rolling" my fenders in, not my baby. I've considered getting a set of the 1" spacers but I have no idea how to install them, i guess I just need to check into it a little more.
01-12-2009, 06:23 AM
#11
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Pearland, TX
Posts: 3,779
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Wow! This thread is chock full of bad information.
Don't cut off your bumpstops. Don't grind down your bumpstops. Yes, your car needs them. In your case, your car needs replacements. Get the Z28 bumpstops, not the SS/WS6 style. They're more tapered.
When you run 11" rear wheels, you pretty much have to learn to jack the rear up by the differential, not from the side. This will keep the bumpstops from interfering when you're mounting/dismounting the wheels.
Get an adjustable panhard bar to make sure the rearend is centered. That part was good advice.
Unless you're doing some Dukes of Hazard-style jumps, or your rearend is off-center, your bumpstops won't be a problem.
After you mount them, go for a short drive. Make sure you have both left and right turns on the drive. If they rub the inner fender wells, get out the hammer. I used a 3lb drilling hammer, because it has a large, flat face. You will see the spots where they rubbed. Hit there.
If the outer sidewalls have any marks or cuts in them, you'll need to roll your fender lips. Rent a heat gun and fender roller (search this section, there are a couple people who have them for rent) and take a little at a time. You don't have to roll the lips flat, just angle them up and "curl" the leading edge, to present a rounded surface to the sidewall, rather than an edge.
-Mike
Don't cut off your bumpstops. Don't grind down your bumpstops. Yes, your car needs them. In your case, your car needs replacements. Get the Z28 bumpstops, not the SS/WS6 style. They're more tapered.
When you run 11" rear wheels, you pretty much have to learn to jack the rear up by the differential, not from the side. This will keep the bumpstops from interfering when you're mounting/dismounting the wheels.
Get an adjustable panhard bar to make sure the rearend is centered. That part was good advice.
Unless you're doing some Dukes of Hazard-style jumps, or your rearend is off-center, your bumpstops won't be a problem.
After you mount them, go for a short drive. Make sure you have both left and right turns on the drive. If they rub the inner fender wells, get out the hammer. I used a 3lb drilling hammer, because it has a large, flat face. You will see the spots where they rubbed. Hit there.
If the outer sidewalls have any marks or cuts in them, you'll need to roll your fender lips. Rent a heat gun and fender roller (search this section, there are a couple people who have them for rent) and take a little at a time. You don't have to roll the lips flat, just angle them up and "curl" the leading edge, to present a rounded surface to the sidewall, rather than an edge.
-Mike
Last edited by chupr0kabra; 01-12-2009 at 09:52 AM.
01-12-2009, 12:03 PM
#13
Wow! This thread is chock full of bad information.
Don't cut off your bumpstops. Don't grind down your bumpstops. Yes, your car needs them. In your case, your car needs replacements. Get the Z28 bumpstops, not the SS/WS6 style. They're more tapered.
When you run 11" rear wheels, you pretty much have to learn to jack the rear up by the differential, not from the side. This will keep the bumpstops from interfering when you're mounting/dismounting the wheels.
Get an adjustable panhard bar to make sure the rearend is centered. That part was good advice.
Unless you're doing some Dukes of Hazard-style jumps, or your rearend is off-center, your bumpstops won't be a problem.
After you mount them, go for a short drive. Make sure you have both left and right turns on the drive. If they rub the inner fender wells, get out the hammer. I used a 3lb drilling hammer, because it has a large, flat face. You will see the spots where they rubbed. Hit there.
If the outer sidewalls have any marks or cuts in them, you'll need to roll your fender lips. Rent a heat gun and fender roller (search this section, there are a couple people who have them for rent) and take a little at a time. You don't have to roll the lips flat, just angle them up and "curl" the leading edge, to present a rounded surface to the sidewall, rather than an edge.
-Mike
Don't cut off your bumpstops. Don't grind down your bumpstops. Yes, your car needs them. In your case, your car needs replacements. Get the Z28 bumpstops, not the SS/WS6 style. They're more tapered.
When you run 11" rear wheels, you pretty much have to learn to jack the rear up by the differential, not from the side. This will keep the bumpstops from interfering when you're mounting/dismounting the wheels.
Get an adjustable panhard bar to make sure the rearend is centered. That part was good advice.
Unless you're doing some Dukes of Hazard-style jumps, or your rearend is off-center, your bumpstops won't be a problem.
After you mount them, go for a short drive. Make sure you have both left and right turns on the drive. If they rub the inner fender wells, get out the hammer. I used a 3lb drilling hammer, because it has a large, flat face. You will see the spots where they rubbed. Hit there.
If the outer sidewalls have any marks or cuts in them, you'll need to roll your fender lips. Rent a heat gun and fender roller (search this section, there are a couple people who have them for rent) and take a little at a time. You don't have to roll the lips flat, just angle them up and "curl" the leading edge, to present a rounded surface to the sidewall, rather than an edge.
-Mike
It doesn't matter if you are jumping bridges or not, your wheels or tires should never, EVER come in contact with an part of the chassis!!
What do you think happens when you take a turn? Hmm, one wheel will be higher than the other!! So therefor you need to cut down the sides of the bump stop!
Remember that the rear suspension will have a small amount of play so do not do the bare minimum when clearancing!
01-12-2009, 03:18 PM
#14
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Pearland, TX
Posts: 3,779
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Bad info??
It doesn't matter if you are jumping bridges or not, your wheels or tires should never, EVER come in contact with an part of the chassis!!
What do you think happens when you take a turn? Hmm, one wheel will be higher than the other!! So therefor you need to cut down the sides of the bump stop!
Remember that the rear suspension will have a small amount of play so do not do the bare minimum when clearancing!
It doesn't matter if you are jumping bridges or not, your wheels or tires should never, EVER come in contact with an part of the chassis!!
What do you think happens when you take a turn? Hmm, one wheel will be higher than the other!! So therefor you need to cut down the sides of the bump stop!
Remember that the rear suspension will have a small amount of play so do not do the bare minimum when clearancing!
-Mike
01-12-2009, 03:26 PM
#16
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Pearland, TX
Posts: 3,779
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Do what you will. It's the internet. Everyone has their advice.
-Mike
01-12-2009, 03:40 PM
#17
The only way I could see one rubbing on the bumpstops is on the stock springs at stock hieght. Just look at where it sits when the car is on the ground, it sits underneith the upper lip of the wheel, out of the way.
01-12-2009, 03:55 PM
#18
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (64)
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 3,612
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Why?
I bought my ss with 315's on the back and my car's been lowered so it's not unusual for my tires to rub. However, I would never consider "rolling" my fenders in, not my baby. I've considered getting a set of the 1" spacers but I have no idea how to install them, i guess I just need to check into it a little more.
Damn it, I was scrolling down and answering every wront post, but you beat me to it
01-12-2009, 03:58 PM
#19
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (64)
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 3,612
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I ran 17x11 ZR1s too. If you let the wheels hang by the bump stop mounts, they will catch. Under normal driving circumstances (even under cornering, when the axle is skewed), the chances of there being that much extension in the suspension are pretty slim. If you're talking about autocrossing and such, that's another matter, but in the year+ I ran 17x11's, the only time my bump stops ever came into contact with my wheels was when I jacked the car up from the side or forgot to take the wheels off before raising the rearend that far.
Do what you will. It's the internet. Everyone has their advice.
-Mike
Do what you will. It's the internet. Everyone has their advice.
-Mike
01-12-2009, 04:01 PM
#20
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (64)
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 3,612
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Also, if you need to do the BFH mod(which is when you hammer the areas in the wheel well that the tire is hitting). Make sure that your back seats are up. I have heard of issues with the backseats when left down while doing the BFH.