wvaboy

iTrader: (3)

few questions.

1st car is a 6sp and i know not to mix the two. car is putting down a little over 500rwhp and is approx. 3600lbs without me in it.
2nd i will not be towing the car, i have to drive it to the track. one track is about 12 miles away, second is about 40 miles away.
3rd setup i'm looking at is 16x10 rears

is there a reason to go with bias over radials? good friend said radials wouldn't be bad considering m@h makes a 275 drag radial.

is there a reason to go one way or the other?
any pros or cons of each?

thanks
rob

99corvette

iTrader: (12)

+1 on wanting to know this

wvaboy

iTrader: (3)

any help? has to be a million peeps on here that has tried radials then switched to bias ply, vice versa, for one reason or another.

will the bias ply be unstable at high speeds? (boat motion)
why go with bias ply over drag radials......60ft times only?

94lt1m6

iTrader: (9)

I'm wondering this as well. Someone chime in.

SJM Manufacturing Inc

iTrader: (5)

radials you can get rather good results but you'll have to heat them up quite a bit. Bias ply, tires are lighter which is a definite plus. Do a search, I know people discuss this stuff all the time.

wvaboy

iTrader: (3)

searched 6 pages bias ply vs drag radial, no answer

searched 4 pages bias ply, no answer

most were radial vs radial or which tire to put on rim. i did find one post that said this wasn't discussed much.

was trying to find someone who had both and could help with pros and cons of each. i didn't know bias ply was lighter

if i go bias ply should i put a tube in it? can i take it down the interstate at 130 or 140 without fear of swaying and wrecking?
i don't think these are bad questions to ask before buying and then hating them.

obviously i'm not the only one wanting to know a few answers.

021less

iTrader: (28)

i would not even attempt those speeds on the street on a bias ply slick. It will be all over the place and at those speeds correcting could be dangerous. Mine is a 6 speed and i run m/t et streets. Last pass i made on the spray it nearly put me in the wall when i hit 4th, but lifted a little and straightened out. I was running my normal 285's up front. Just got my skinny's with m/t bias ply tires for the front, hopefully that helps a little. Driving them on the street to and from the track isn't bad just pump them up around 30 psi, but it still will sway a bit around turns, just be careful on them. i haven't run any of the radials so i can't help you there. Just be prepared to fight it a little in the 6 speed.

ndfrsd6

iTrader: (5)

ok been there done that .......i went low 1.5's ave 60ft on the 275 mt radial and went through 2 12 bolt ! the slick will be much easier than the radial on your drivetrain and it will be much much easier to get the 60 ft dialed in TRUST me .
go with the slick you will not regret it and get another set of street rims to drive to the track with

ndfrsd6

iTrader: (5)

also your car will be much more consistent on the slick over the radial

wvaboy

iTrader: (3)

it would have a skinny up front, but it will also be going to 1/4 mile track where the car "should" run 128 to 138 mph. so i just wasn't for sure what to expect.

SJM Manufacturing Inc

iTrader: (5)

Tires are consumables. If you've never tried either style, pick one and choose another the next time. You'll get a season out of each type...this way you can make you're own best choice for what works best for you.

I wouldn't go those speeds on any highway fwiw. Leave those type of speeds for the track where there is more control from outside stimuli...even something like a rabbit crossing the road could be bad.

ATLSS

iTrader: (7)

Sorry, but this thread is just bad... no straight answers and no straight explanation as to why a car will almost hit the wall on bias ply slicks...

1. Okay, if you're running a bias ply on the rear and radial on the front you're a dumbass.

If there is ONE thing that a bias ply rear needs is a skinny bias ply on the front....

2. Bias ply tires are NOT intended for roll racing on the highway.... and they're not designed to make turns at high speed. They are designed to go straight for short distances, i.e. 1/4 mile.

If you want to make a local cruise on on your drag pack, no problem.

3. A stick car is violent due to the sudden clutch engagement. Therefore, a DR is not going to provide the best launch, a bias ply will. M&H is probably the best tire for a stick car as they seem to soak up some of this energy so the suspension isn't shocked quite as bad...

There are guys that were cutting 1.5s on a MT that changed to a M&H and are now cutting 1.4s....

4. I'm also running a 16" rear as I was NOT going to grind my calipers... dangerous if you ask me, especially on a street... I went with a 26x11.5x16 M&H Cheater Slick... which is the same compound as their drag slick, but it has grooves and is DOT approved...

So, the cops can't send me home for driving on public roads with them...

I hope this helps actually answer some of your questions. And yes, the SEARCH FEATURE SUCKS for some reason... I don't know what they changed with it, but there is definately be MANY more redundant threads now... Thanks ls1tech!

Good luck.

wvaboy

iTrader: (3)

thank you! by far the most helpful!!!!!!!!!!

bigdsz

iTrader: (1)

I'm 524/501, and had MT DR's on my M6. The MT's are great for an A4, but forget it on a M6. I would continually bang the rev limiter. I put on Hoosier QTPs. which hook much much much better, but are really squirelly up top. I do have radials up front which could be contributing to the rear instability. My buddy who has run straight Hoosier slicks for some time claims that you get used to it.