taws6

iTrader: (2)

Just wondering, my wheels sit quiet a way in the wheel well.
I know they won't improve the handeling, but is it okay to do?

Thanks for the advise

69camaross

iTrader: (4)

Are talking about your stock Ws6 17x9 wheels? If so, they sit inside the wheel well like a 17x9 wheel should. Do you want them to stick out like one of those ricers or ghetto cruisers that run around with the wrong offset wheels?

If you want more tire under your rear fenders get some 17x11in wheels with proper backspacing. You can the run a 315 tire vs. the 275 you're running now.

Never ever ever run spacers unless you're running some front skinny drag wheels that are supposed to use them.

taws6

iTrader: (2)

Yea, got stock 17 ws6 wheels. I know what you mean about the ghetto cruisers, and agree, they can stick out too far. Mine just seem set in a long way, and would like them out a bit more...

I'm tempted by 315 f + r, but the cost of tires puts me off a bit, and I don't really need wheels that big for a street car, so I'm sticking with my 17"s.

So how come spacers shouldn't be used with stock rims?

Any other reasons for not using spacers than the assosiated 'ghetto' connection?

TireSm0ke

iTrader: (1)

Well the ghetto cruisers dont run spacers, they just run the wrong offset rim. If you get a good hubcentric spacer and some longer ARP wheel studs, I dont see a problem. I wouldnt run the car at the track with them though

taws6

iTrader: (2)

I'm not likely to take it to the track many times (circit type), but there's loads of bendy roads where I live.
Do you think I might have problems with that?
Why can they be problems, and will my calipers still fit if I have them?

Sorry for all the questions, and thanks again for the advise.

Nimitz87

iTrader: (17)

get longer wheel studs and you shouldn't have a problem.

there is no reason your calipers will not fit...your pushing the wheel out.

don't use the universal "mr. gasket" spacers however.

Chad

Tommyv8

iTrader: (8)

Newb question: what's the difference between those gaskets and other ones?

taws6

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the help guys.

How come they're not recommended for the track?
(what type of track, circit or drag?)
Is it drifting/sliding the back end out that's bad for them?

Tommy, I guess the Mr gasket ones are a inferior quality.

Nimitz87

iTrader: (17)

they fit very sloppy and move around...not what you want in a spacer.

they aren't recommended for the track because it puts more strain on the studs...you also need longer studs if your going to run spacers, I run 3" ARP studs I run a spacer in the front instead of drag brakes.

I would think drifting and sliding around would put alot of stress on them...up to you people do it.

here is a hub centric spacer vs the universal style.





Chad

taws6

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the replys.

I wouldn't need the longer studs if I get the hub centric spacer, do I ?

(BTW, I'm not drifting round bends), so on my street car I should be okay to use them IYHO?

Thanks again for all the help

BobDoLe

iTrader: (11)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/wheels-ti...acers-bad.html

^ that thread covers a few angles on it.
basically the spacer is going to put stress on the studs. hub centric spacer takes a lot of that worry into consideration.

taws6

iTrader: (2)

Great, thanks for the help

Tommyv8

iTrader: (8)

Thanks for the clarification Chad, I may look into that hubcentric spacer.

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

taWS6

the way your question should have been answered initially is this, no do not run spacers, spacers are bad, spacers are bad because they push the wheel out and leave very little of the stud threads for the lug nut to thread onto therefore make it a lot more likely for the wheel to come off. the other thing is pushing the wheel further out puts added stress on the studs making them more likely to break

the other things the guys said are great too though, like they said if you really really wanna run spacers you can either get the kind that are a spacer with studs in them or the just piece of metal with holes in it kind, the ones with studs in them... those mount to your studs with nuts and provide new studs for the wheel to mount to. Even then you are creating more leverage on your stock studs so I would be a little iffy of doing that myself. Probably the best way is to run high strength/longer studs such as the ARP's, so that you add a stronger stud into the mix, with the just piece of metal with holes kind ( sorry for the crappy description but its for lack of having a better one lol )


edit: wasnt trying to come off as a dick if I did, just wanted to make sure you got the basic answer you needed to hear.

DriftR

iTrader: (4)

From what I was told the max thickness "spacer" that is safe to use is 5/16", more than that puts excess leverage on the studs and they can break.
The ones that bolt on to the hubs are called "adapters". They need to be thick enough to clear your stock studs (1.25" without any grinding). These are safe up to 2". They are the same as bolting on a wheel with a more positive offset. Your wheels would then bolt to them.

taws6

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for clarifiying that guys, it's always great to get lots of opinions.

I will get the 'adaptor' kind with new studs, as I can see how 'spacers' will put additional stress on the studs, and I'd like around 1" further out.
And thanks for pointing out that the 'adaptors' need to be 1.25" to clear the studs, I guessed there'd be a minimum, so thanks for the info.

01Blk*SS*

iTrader: (4)

hey man, howd the adapters end up looking?

Eskimo

iTrader: (9)

on my 9.5" wheels, 56mm offset, adding a 20mm adapter pushed them out flush with the fender, and it looks GREAT. Not an ounce of "ghetto cruiser" at all.

blacksnake

Where did you get the 20mm adapter if you don't mind me asking?

tekno66

if you do add spacers make sure you get longer studs or the ET style lug nuts