edzsilverss

iTrader: (4)

I've been having a time with my new wheels. I've replaced all the front wheel studs with longer ones cause the stock studs are all stripped out and now the g/d wheel won't go on. I'm about to ruin my family's Christmas I'm so pissed. The wheels go on fine but the shank lugs will not twist on while the wheel is on the car. They go on fine without the wheel on the studs. I'm about to pull my freaking hair out. I've put wheels and tires on hundreds of times and never had this issue. WTF could be the issue? I haven't even started drinking yet so that's not it. There is no reason the lugs should not just go on. They go on so easy when the wheels are off the car. I don't get it. Brand new studs and shank lugs. Maybe I'm just a dumbass or I need someone to hold the wheel while I put the lugs on. This is a big bag of

l92

iTrader: (4)

take a die grinder and open the holes just a little so the shanks slid in and out easy the welds have some real tight clearences i had to do this when switching the same wheels to another f body

edzsilverss

iTrader: (4)

That could be it. I had to "waller" out one of the holes for the new lugs to even go in although they look the same. They are a bit bigger around I guess. It's a very fine line I suppose. They are touching but just not going on the threads. Waller is down south thing btw. lol Thanks for the input.

00SS4780

iTrader: (3)

I had to do the same on mine. But all I had was a grinding wheel so I took off alittle metal from the long shank lugs. They slid in then and had no problems

edzsilverss

iTrader: (4)

I'm taking a dewalt drill and a metal bit to them now. Already getting the shanks to go in much easier. I hope this is it. I'm beginning to rethink my trade for these damn wheels lol Nothing wrong with them but each car is different.

00SS4780

iTrader: (3)

Do they fit now?

edzsilverss

iTrader: (4)

I got the front left on and I had to wait til tomorrow to get the rest of studs and shank lugs because of Christmas. I know for sure each one is on right and not stripped. I'll be replacing all 10 rear studs tomorrow along with the other three front right ones. They only had 7 long studs in stock yesterday for the fronts. I wonder if I should put locktite on the studs? I've had new ones back out before. Can you get them back off if you use that stuff? I feel much better about the longer studs on the front. There is actually about 3/4 inch more threads on the new studs as well.

00SS4780

iTrader: (3)

Not sure if u need locktite. I have had no problems with the backing out yet. I change mine alot by putting the stock wheels back on and the back to the prostars.

wheelczar

I have a few questions: Can you give me the exact lug nut size and measurments? Diameter, shank length also stud size you have on the car. Is it 5x4.75 bolt circle?
And what is the wheel size and back space. I may be able to help you solve this issue without using a grinder.

tillery

iTrader: (4)

No dont use any locktite on lugnuts. On any wheel you should recheck torque after a few miles and like a week of driving. And grinding or making holes larger? You have the right lugnut? Or cheap lugnuts? you can mess up a wheel big time and it wont bolt up right. Give the wheel a out of roundness. Wheels are either lug or hub centric. I know this probley dont help you delima. Just want to prevent a accident on the road.

wheelczar

You are correct tillery, I would never modify any wheel from the original state. I think you have the wrong lugs as well. See if you can get the specs needed.

DopdBrd

iTrader: (25)

Agreed. Shanks have different outside diameters, being that the welds fit tighter than hell from the beginning, any slight difference would make them not fit. Get a dial caliper and find out what the OD of the shank is.

edzsilverss

iTrader: (4)

I'm talking just a very, very little bit needed to be grinded. Two or three would fit fine but a couple on each wheel would not. I bought the shank lugnuts at autozone. They are the 12x1.50 and the studs are the same size as stock but about 3/4 of a inck longer. I think they are 55 mm long and there is alot more thread than the stock ones. I have replaced all 20 with longer studs and used all 20 new lugnuts. I made the holes just big enough for the lugs to go in. There is no movement at all and everything is fine now. There just wasn't enough meat on the stock studs and two or three were stripped on every wheel by the time the tire shops got done. I used the blue loctite on the studs so they are easy to remove. I bought a tourqe wrench and tq'd them down to 90 ft lbs. I checked them after two days of driving and they are still in place. No vibration at all now. I think it was a combo of the stripped studs and the stock length being the issue. I put them all on by hand all the way down and then used the tourqe wrench. I didn't have to "waller" out the holes much at all for the lugst to fit. Just a few times round with a metal drill bit. The only reason I used locktite was several years ago I replaced the studs on my rustang and bought new lugnuts as well. By the time I got it home, all 20 were about to fall off.

wheelczar

I am glad you got this fixed, but what concerns me is the lugs you bought. Weld has a large concave washer with their lug nuts. These are used to give a bigger contact patch on the face of the wheel and to help maintain torque. I am assuming the washers with the lugs you bought are stamped washers and are not large enough and have sharp edges that may dig into the wheel causing it to loose torque over time. Keep an eye on your torqu specs for a while. If you start to loose it buy genuine Weld lugs, they are designed for their wheels.