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Real differences in wheel weights(for acceleration)?

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Old 03-01-2010, 07:22 PM
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Default Real differences in wheel weights(for acceleration)?

I'm debating between getting something along the lines of 18" c6(non-z06) DD wheels, or a prostar type wheel. This is on a purely street car. occasional(rarely) roll racing, and spirited driving will be my focus. Is the weight savings from the lighter wheels going to make that big of a difference on the highway/general acceleration? Also, I have a steel driveshaft, and an ls7 flywheel on my car, which already has more rotating weight.. how much are those two things hurting me?

Is there any hard numbers or close to that someone can explain to me?
Old 03-02-2010, 04:07 PM
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I'm sure someone has some experience with this, or some dyno numbers?
Old 03-02-2010, 05:15 PM
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From what I've heard, going from more or less stock wheel and tire size in front (17's with a 275, maybe a 21lb wheel or so) to a 15in skinny is good for about a 10th. Some people have reported big losses going to heavier wheels and tires, but most to ignore DA, track conditions, etc.

In my opinion, unless there is a huge weight difference, (10lbs+ per wheel) its not going to make a significant difference.
Old 03-03-2010, 12:25 PM
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It is all related to rolling mass. Example: if you have 40 lb wheel and tire combo and you change tires and wheels to 45 lbs. The extra 5 lbs of rolling mass calculates to 7 times the weight. So the car feels as though it has to move an additional 35 lbs. per wheel, or 140 extra lbs. The less they weigh the better the car performs in every situation, acceleration, braking, cornering ect. So keep this in mind, if you change tires and wheels and they are heavier than what you have on there now, expect to see and feel the difference.
Old 03-04-2010, 04:13 PM
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To further complicate things, how close to the axle centerline the weight is makes a difference in inertia too..
Old 03-05-2010, 03:36 PM
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If it is really a huge difference, I might actually consider going with a smaller lightweight wheel. I wanted to pay in the 500ish range for wheels(not including tires), so not sure what kinda light options I have. I see prostars and such go for around that amount.

Though, I'm wondering if the huge(not just width, but height) of tires on those prostars would add enough weight to make the lighter wheels pointless.

Does a hard hook on the highway(2nd gear going 50-60(I have 3:23 in a 6spd) break rear ends like a dead launch does? Looking at about 530 rwhp(with spray)
Old 03-05-2010, 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Daez
If it is really a huge difference, I might actually consider going with a smaller lightweight wheel. I wanted to pay in the 500ish range for wheels(not including tires), so not sure what kinda light options I have. I see prostars and such go for around that amount.
Well opn that small of a budget your only gonna find used drag wheels & heavy cheap aftermarket wheels.

If you want nice light wheels get ready to drop more like $2500+

Plus with drag wheels you'd be wise to slow down for corners, those front skinnies dont like sharp turns at speed.
Old 03-05-2010, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Daez
Does a hard hook on the highway(2nd gear going 50-60(I have 3:23 in a 6spd) break rear ends like a dead launch does? Looking at about 530 rwhp(with spray)
Yes, you can definetly break a **** 10-bolt this way. Especially with the torque spike from the juice hitting. If your worried about the rear stay away from slicks in a 6-speed.
Old 03-07-2010, 05:28 PM
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i went from stock 16s too polishe zr1s 17x11 in the back and felt heavy as ****! lol but looks damn good , I also have some draglights wich will make up for it
Old 03-07-2010, 05:42 PM
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If you're looking for something that will handle and take turns at high speed do not get drag rims like prostars they are not made for that
Old 03-07-2010, 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by blacksnake
From what I've heard, going from more or less stock wheel and tire size in front (17's with a 275, maybe a 21lb wheel or so) to a 15in skinny is good for about a 10th. Some people have reported big losses going to heavier wheels and tires, but most to ignore DA, track conditions, etc.

In my opinion, unless there is a huge weight difference, (10lbs+ per wheel) its not going to make a significant difference.
You must also take into account the width of the tires. The wider the tires, the more friction (rolling resistance). Both the width and the weight must be taken into consideration.

Originally Posted by wheelczar
It is all related to rolling mass. Example: if you have 40 lb wheel and tire combo and you change tires and wheels to 45 lbs. The extra 5 lbs of rolling mass calculates to 7 times the weight. So the car feels as though it has to move an additional 35 lbs. per wheel, or 140 extra lbs. The less they weigh the better the car performs in every situation, acceleration, braking, cornering ect. So keep this in mind, if you change tires and wheels and they are heavier than what you have on there now, expect to see and feel the difference.
Is this true for the front wheels during acceleration. At no point in time during a 1/4 mile run should a vehicle have 100% of its regular weight (ie. weight on each wheel while standing still) on the front wheels (save for if it lifts them then returns to the ground). That being said, I find it difficult to see how this equation holds true for this.

Without a doubt though, you will not see anything positive come from a heavier wheel.




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