Shimmy that doesnt make any sense...ideas please
04-21-2011, 06:08 PM
#1
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Shimmy that doesnt make any sense...ideas please I just swapped wheels with a buddy. I gave him my ten spokes and he traded me his staggered (non bent) zr1s 17x9.5/17x11. I had 275/40/17s on my ten spokes and when we traded he kept his tires and I kept mine (I obviously got 315s for the 11s). I used 2 tires that I had on the front ten spokes before for the front zr1s and the new 315s for the rear.
When I left his shop I noticed a wheel shimmy at speeds of around 50+mph. Being that he did me the favor and didnt charge me anything to do the mount and balance I figured I wouldnt bother him and ask him to fix it. So I brought the wheels and tires to another shop to have them re-balance the wheels thinking that everything would be dandy....wrong
The shimmy is still there at 50+mph
So my question is, how could I get a shimmy using the same tires I was using on my front 10 spokes mounting and balancing them on non bent zr1 wheels? If anyone has any advice or anything it would be greatly appreciated. Shimmys and little gremlins like this drive me insane.
When I left his shop I noticed a wheel shimmy at speeds of around 50+mph. Being that he did me the favor and didnt charge me anything to do the mount and balance I figured I wouldnt bother him and ask him to fix it. So I brought the wheels and tires to another shop to have them re-balance the wheels thinking that everything would be dandy....wrong
The shimmy is still there at 50+mph
So my question is, how could I get a shimmy using the same tires I was using on my front 10 spokes mounting and balancing them on non bent zr1 wheels? If anyone has any advice or anything it would be greatly appreciated. Shimmys and little gremlins like this drive me insane.
04-22-2011, 06:21 AM
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I was thinking that...but literally within an hours time? I drove to the shop with no shimmy, we took the ten spokes off, unmounted the tires and remounted them on the zr1s...is that a possibility from unmounting?
Last edited by silversrtman; 04-22-2011 at 06:29 AM.
04-22-2011, 06:32 AM
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I just swapped wheels with a buddy. I gave him my ten spokes and he traded me his staggered (non bent) zr1s 17x9.5/17x11. I had 275/40/17s on my ten spokes and when we traded he kept his tires and I kept mine (I obviously got 315s for the 11s). I used 2 tires that I had on the front ten spokes before for the front zr1s and the new 315s for the rear.
When I left his shop I noticed a wheel shimmy at speeds of around 50+mph. Being that he did me the favor and didnt charge me anything to do the mount and balance I figured I wouldnt bother him and ask him to fix it. So I brought the wheels and tires to another shop to have them re-balance the wheels thinking that everything would be dandy....wrong
The shimmy is still there at 50+mph
So my question is, how could I get a shimmy using the same tires I was using on my front 10 spokes mounting and balancing them on non bent zr1 wheels? If anyone has any advice or anything it would be greatly appreciated. Shimmys and little gremlins like this drive me insane.
When I left his shop I noticed a wheel shimmy at speeds of around 50+mph. Being that he did me the favor and didnt charge me anything to do the mount and balance I figured I wouldnt bother him and ask him to fix it. So I brought the wheels and tires to another shop to have them re-balance the wheels thinking that everything would be dandy....wrong
The shimmy is still there at 50+mph
So my question is, how could I get a shimmy using the same tires I was using on my front 10 spokes mounting and balancing them on non bent zr1 wheels? If anyone has any advice or anything it would be greatly appreciated. Shimmys and little gremlins like this drive me insane.
04-22-2011, 02:13 PM
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Im sure theyre not bent....I saw him balance them, and the second shop i brought them too didnt mention it at all either. The tires have about 5k miles on them....
04-22-2011, 04:45 PM
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Try and do a little diagnostic to narrow it down: do you feel the shimmy in the steering wheel (front wheels), or in the seat (rear wheels). then get on a long straight stretch(preferably with no traffic) and hold the car in a gentle, long side to side sway, does the shimmy change when going from one side to the other? is there any noise that goes along with or changes with the shimmy. Did any of the tires take a large amount of weight to balance? if one did you might need to break it down and rotate it 90 degrees and remount it. You can break a belt in a tire mounting and dismounting it, it will usually show up in a little wiggle in the tread when you spin it, usually doesn't look like much but under pressure it will vibrate. A road force balancer will usually show this up.
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05-21-2011, 10:50 PM
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ok well heres a little update, please give me some opinions. After my car had been sitting for a day and a half, I decided to jack it up and inspect the tires. I spun the front tires as fast as i could by hand and let it drag on the palm of my hand. In doing so I felt a huge flat spot, and when i spun the tire and looked closer its very visible.....this happened on both sides. Should I have flat spots on basically brand new tires that sat for a day and a half? Wtf? I could definitely see this as my problem....any input? Opinions?
05-22-2011, 02:18 PM
#10
Determine the cause of the flat spots first. Is there a difference in tread depth difference? That would indicate that you locked up the brakes at high speeds and scrubbed the flat spot into the tread. If there is not depth difference, the flat spot is from sitting for an extended period of time, deforming the tire.
Also, what do you mean "basically brand new"? How many miles are on the times since the initial install, not just since this confusing wheel tire swap thing you've got going.
Also, what do you mean "basically brand new"? How many miles are on the times since the initial install, not just since this confusing wheel tire swap thing you've got going.
05-22-2011, 08:55 PM
#11
is the vibration only at 50mph? if its a tire/wheel it usually has the most vibrations when dividing that in half or multiplying it by 2. so see if theres a vibration at 25 and at 100. if so then its defiinitely in the wheel/tires/ balance.
I run an auto shop. custom wheels can be hard to balance perfectly sometimes. the guys in my shop are used to balancing everyday driver type wheels. I had balancing problems in the past with custom wheels and solved them by balancing them myself and really paying attn to balancing them. make sure the wheel hub and the brake rotor is perfectly clean. some wheels ive had to torque with a torque wrench to make them ride perfect.
It seems to me that when you get a really wide wheel with that much backspacing, it really makes it critical to have them balanced perfect.
also, make sure they arent static balancing them (weights only on the inside). on a rim with that much backspacing it will never be perfect. the most critical area to balance is perpendicular with the mounting surface of the hub.
I run an auto shop. custom wheels can be hard to balance perfectly sometimes. the guys in my shop are used to balancing everyday driver type wheels. I had balancing problems in the past with custom wheels and solved them by balancing them myself and really paying attn to balancing them. make sure the wheel hub and the brake rotor is perfectly clean. some wheels ive had to torque with a torque wrench to make them ride perfect.
It seems to me that when you get a really wide wheel with that much backspacing, it really makes it critical to have them balanced perfect.
also, make sure they arent static balancing them (weights only on the inside). on a rim with that much backspacing it will never be perfect. the most critical area to balance is perpendicular with the mounting surface of the hub.
05-23-2011, 06:44 AM
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Determine the cause of the flat spots first. Is there a difference in tread depth difference? That would indicate that you locked up the brakes at high speeds and scrubbed the flat spot into the tread. If there is not depth difference, the flat spot is from sitting for an extended period of time, deforming the tire.
Also, what do you mean "basically brand new"? How many miles are on the times since the initial install, not just since this confusing wheel tire swap thing you've got going.
Also, what do you mean "basically brand new"? How many miles are on the times since the initial install, not just since this confusing wheel tire swap thing you've got going.
is the vibration only at 50mph? if its a tire/wheel it usually has the most vibrations when dividing that in half or multiplying it by 2. so see if theres a vibration at 25 and at 100. if so then its defiinitely in the wheel/tires/ balance.
I run an auto shop. custom wheels can be hard to balance perfectly sometimes. the guys in my shop are used to balancing everyday driver type wheels. I had balancing problems in the past with custom wheels and solved them by balancing them myself and really paying attn to balancing them. make sure the wheel hub and the brake rotor is perfectly clean. some wheels ive had to torque with a torque wrench to make them ride perfect.
It seems to me that when you get a really wide wheel with that much backspacing, it really makes it critical to have them balanced perfect.
also, make sure they arent static balancing them (weights only on the inside). on a rim with that much backspacing it will never be perfect. the most critical area to balance is perpendicular with the mounting surface of the hub.
I run an auto shop. custom wheels can be hard to balance perfectly sometimes. the guys in my shop are used to balancing everyday driver type wheels. I had balancing problems in the past with custom wheels and solved them by balancing them myself and really paying attn to balancing them. make sure the wheel hub and the brake rotor is perfectly clean. some wheels ive had to torque with a torque wrench to make them ride perfect.
It seems to me that when you get a really wide wheel with that much backspacing, it really makes it critical to have them balanced perfect.
also, make sure they arent static balancing them (weights only on the inside). on a rim with that much backspacing it will never be perfect. the most critical area to balance is perpendicular with the mounting surface of the hub.
05-23-2011, 12:45 PM
#13
Balancing cannot overcome excessive tire runout. You either need to get the tire back into round or replace it. Usually dropping the pressure down to the low 20s and driving at high speed for 20-30 miles will do the trick. A burnout will do it too. Sometimes, it's there for good - welcome to the modern high performance radial tire!
05-23-2011, 02:10 PM
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A Hunter 9700 will inform the tech of a flat-spotted tire and will instruct the tech to replace the "defective" tire. So if they didn't tell you that you needed new tires, then you either got ripped off, and/or all 3 shops have idiots for techs.
Balancing cannot overcome excessive tire runout. You either need to get the tire back into round or replace it. Usually dropping the pressure down to the low 20s and driving at high speed for 20-30 miles will do the trick. A burnout will do it too. Sometimes, it's there for good - welcome to the modern high performance radial tire!
Balancing cannot overcome excessive tire runout. You either need to get the tire back into round or replace it. Usually dropping the pressure down to the low 20s and driving at high speed for 20-30 miles will do the trick. A burnout will do it too. Sometimes, it's there for good - welcome to the modern high performance radial tire!
Thanks for your informative reply! I am going to try swapping the front wheels with my buddy and take it down the road to see if its defintely a problem with the wheels and not the car, and if it is with the wheels/tires, looks like ill either try your driving down the road/burnout trick, or I will be buying new tires....
