Are bias ply ET streets what I need?
#1
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Are bias ply ET streets what I need?
I am currently running a set of MT DR's on my ride. What I am looking for is more consistancy. When they do hook, its great. But I will nail a 1.65 60' one run, do the same starting procedure, and get a 1.75 - 1.85 with tire spin the next time. It may repeat this for the 3rd, and sometimes 4th run and then, pow! another dead hook w/a 1.65 60'. Mods are in sig, allthough I am putting a different nitrous kit in the car as we speak, and will be spraying a 100 rwhp shot this time out. The MT DR's are not getting it done for me reliably. And, from speaking with a few others at the track, I am not alone.
Are the bias ply ET streets the answer to my needs? I am looking at a set of 26" tires to put on a set of Weld 15" rims. I am running stock suspension. What I am looking for is to be able to stage the car, load the suspension with around 1500 rpm's, and nail the throttle at the last amber, leaving w/o any wheelspin. Maybe I am asking to much?
What do you guys think?
Are the bias ply ET streets the answer to my needs? I am looking at a set of 26" tires to put on a set of Weld 15" rims. I am running stock suspension. What I am looking for is to be able to stage the car, load the suspension with around 1500 rpm's, and nail the throttle at the last amber, leaving w/o any wheelspin. Maybe I am asking to much?
What do you guys think?
#2
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I had pretty good luck with et streets on my m6 car, times in sig. The thing i do not like about them are they have a really soft sidewall and are not stable on topend they "walk" around to much for me. They do hook though i launch my car at 7000 on motor. Im actually going away from mt im trying a set of hoosier 26X8.5 stiffwall slicks but ive heard alot of good things out the hoosier dr and the qtp. Being your stock suspension i would go with a hoosier qtp i dont think youll have any problem hooking on those. How wide a wheel u runnng?
#6
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#8
I am currently running a set of MT DR's on my ride. What I am looking for is more consistancy. When they do hook, its great. But I will nail a 1.65 60' one run, do the same starting procedure, and get a 1.75 - 1.85 with tire spin the next time. It may repeat this for the 3rd, and sometimes 4th run and then, pow! another dead hook w/a 1.65 60'. Mods are in sig, allthough I am putting a different nitrous kit in the car as we speak, and will be spraying a 100 rwhp shot this time out. The MT DR's are not getting it done for me reliably. And, from speaking with a few others at the track, I am not alone.
Are the bias ply ET streets the answer to my needs? I am looking at a set of 26" tires to put on a set of Weld 15" rims. I am running stock suspension. What I am looking for is to be able to stage the car, load the suspension with around 1500 rpm's, and nail the throttle at the last amber, leaving w/o any wheelspin. Maybe I am asking to much?
What do you guys think?
Are the bias ply ET streets the answer to my needs? I am looking at a set of 26" tires to put on a set of Weld 15" rims. I am running stock suspension. What I am looking for is to be able to stage the car, load the suspension with around 1500 rpm's, and nail the throttle at the last amber, leaving w/o any wheelspin. Maybe I am asking to much?
What do you guys think?
#9
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Wow. what a surprise seeing this old thread come up again.
Going back to drag radials, but stepping up to 28"s.
The bias ply weren't any quicker, in fact about a .10 slower, but they were pretty consistant.
1.75-1.81 just about every time.
Different tire pressure didn't seem to help at all, 13psi-18psi.
I am going to try the 28" mt dr's along with shocks to see if that will get me into the 1.50-1.55 range.
Going back to drag radials, but stepping up to 28"s.
The bias ply weren't any quicker, in fact about a .10 slower, but they were pretty consistant.
1.75-1.81 just about every time.
Different tire pressure didn't seem to help at all, 13psi-18psi.
I am going to try the 28" mt dr's along with shocks to see if that will get me into the 1.50-1.55 range.
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My best 60s on ET Streets were at 12psi. I'm not running tubes or wheel screws. If I were, I'd run them about a couple pounds lower than that.
What rear gear ratio are you running?
What rear gear ratio are you running?
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I don't think going to a taller tire is necessary for you to improve your 60' times and consistency. In fact, I think you'll end up with worse overall ETs with a 28" tire, because, in effect, you're reducing your rear ratio to less than a 3.23, and you probably are already a little tall geared. 3.73s with an automatic and nitrous just sounds like a marriage made in heaven to me.
Obviously there's some things that can be done with the suspension (i.e. shocks like you said), but there's some pretty quick cars out there on bone stock suspensions too.
A few weekends ago, I was out at Bremerton and watched a white SBC powered Fox body Mustang on spray run mid 8s in the quarter on Hoosier 26x8.5R15 slicks. That car 60s in the 1.2-1.3s and the driver showed me the marks where he had it on the back bumper at Pacific Raceway the weekend before that. It's just an example of what a car with a well set up suspension can do on a really small tire.
The MT ET Streets you're currently running are a medium compound tire (it's actually a harder compound than their drag radials), so I'm thinking a softer compound and staying with a 26" tire is your way to go.
Do you run any kind of progressive nitrous control, or are you hitting it with the 100 shot right off the line?
Obviously there's some things that can be done with the suspension (i.e. shocks like you said), but there's some pretty quick cars out there on bone stock suspensions too.
A few weekends ago, I was out at Bremerton and watched a white SBC powered Fox body Mustang on spray run mid 8s in the quarter on Hoosier 26x8.5R15 slicks. That car 60s in the 1.2-1.3s and the driver showed me the marks where he had it on the back bumper at Pacific Raceway the weekend before that. It's just an example of what a car with a well set up suspension can do on a really small tire.
The MT ET Streets you're currently running are a medium compound tire (it's actually a harder compound than their drag radials), so I'm thinking a softer compound and staying with a 26" tire is your way to go.
Do you run any kind of progressive nitrous control, or are you hitting it with the 100 shot right off the line?
#13
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I don't think going to a taller tire is necessary for you to improve your 60' times and consistency. In fact, I think you'll end up with worse overall ETs with a 28" tire, because, in effect, you're reducing your rear ratio to less than a 3.23, and you probably are already a little tall geared. 3.73s with an automatic and nitrous just sounds like a marriage made in heaven to me.
Obviously there's some things that can be done with the suspension (i.e. shocks like you said), but there's some pretty quick cars out there on bone stock suspensions too.
A few weekends ago, I was out at Bremerton and watched a white SBC powered Fox body Mustang on spray run mid 8s in the quarter on Hoosier 26x8.5R15 slicks. That car 60s in the 1.2-1.3s and the driver showed me the marks where he had it on the back bumper at Pacific Raceway the weekend before that. It's just an example of what a car with a well set up suspension can do on a really small tire.
The MT ET Streets you're currently running are a medium compound tire (it's actually a harder compound than their drag radials), so I'm thinking a softer compound and staying with a 26" tire is your way to go.
Do you run any kind of progressive nitrous control, or are you hitting it with the 100 shot right off the line?
Obviously there's some things that can be done with the suspension (i.e. shocks like you said), but there's some pretty quick cars out there on bone stock suspensions too.
A few weekends ago, I was out at Bremerton and watched a white SBC powered Fox body Mustang on spray run mid 8s in the quarter on Hoosier 26x8.5R15 slicks. That car 60s in the 1.2-1.3s and the driver showed me the marks where he had it on the back bumper at Pacific Raceway the weekend before that. It's just an example of what a car with a well set up suspension can do on a really small tire.
The MT ET Streets you're currently running are a medium compound tire (it's actually a harder compound than their drag radials), so I'm thinking a softer compound and staying with a 26" tire is your way to go.
Do you run any kind of progressive nitrous control, or are you hitting it with the 100 shot right off the line?
The rubber on the dr's is quite a bit softer, R2 vs M5.
I had a set of MT/DR's before and thats what got me my 1.65 60'.
But the inconsistant nature of that tire is what made me go to the bias ply.
Now I am much more consistant, but almost a full tenth slower on the short time.
I want to be able to spray out of the hole and dead hook.
I cannot do this on either the dr's or the bias plys.
My issue is that I have to "pedal" the car on launch, no nitrous untill 4100 rpms which puts me about 3/4 way to the 60' mark.
So I am leaving a lot of time on the table.
MT has a dr [ ET Street 2 ] that is 27.7 dia that I am looking at.
I will put some comp/eng 3 ways on the rear set at 50/50 and give that a try.
Or the other option is going with a set of dedicated ET Drags and swap out at the track.
#14
Be careful if you mix radial and bias ply on the same vehicle. I've seen Quick/fast cars go into walls because of how they sway/squirm and counter steering being a delayed effect.
Also, is the track you're running at allowing street tire and slick tire cars to run the same events and/or not re prepping the track between the cycles? On run-days, they don't re prep here and the street tire cars tear up the groove. So we have to launch out side of the groove just to have "good" rubber.
Also, is the track you're running at allowing street tire and slick tire cars to run the same events and/or not re prepping the track between the cycles? On run-days, they don't re prep here and the street tire cars tear up the groove. So we have to launch out side of the groove just to have "good" rubber.