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rim widening??

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Old 06-26-2005, 12:13 AM
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Default rim widening??

i like the WS6 rims and i was wondering what could be done as to haveing the made wider in the rear instead of buying new rims? I want 315 555r's on the rear for the street..

thanks a lot..
Old 06-26-2005, 01:11 AM
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I've seen it done before, but I'm not sure who does it.
Old 06-26-2005, 10:22 AM
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I've just within the past week bought a set of 18X8 inch HP Racing HPR5's off of Ebay, and I sent them to this place in Michigan called Weldcraft Wheels. Had the fronts widened to 18X9.5, and the rears to 18X10.5. The cost of the operation was $800+ $55 for shipping. They did good work and the turnaround time was 5 days. (They initially told me between 7 to 10 days.) As far as the cost goes, they had asked me if the wheels were either chromed or painted, so I'm guessing that if you have a set of rims that are chromed, the price goes up because they'll have to strip the chrome off in order to weld the aluminum in.

I'm now in the process of stripping the hypersilver finish off the wheels so I can show polish them. I'll be sure to post some pics of them on the car when I'm done.

Here's the link to their site:

www.weldcraftwheels.com
Old 06-26-2005, 10:28 AM
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did you add the 2 1/2" to the back of the rim or split it between front and back. If only in the back are you going to need a 1" spacer?
I think the stock TA and SS wheels can only be split in the back.
Old 06-26-2005, 06:21 PM
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thanks a lot guys i appreciate it..
Old 06-27-2005, 08:10 AM
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These rims were split in the back only. But the difference is, at 8 inches wide these rims were already at a +38mm offset, so with the added width this put them in around the +54mm to +56mm offset range, so a spacer won't be necessary. With the stock rim, at 8 inches wide the offset is +55mm, so depending on how wide you wanna go you're looking at being in the +70mm to +80mm offset range, which will put the wheel too far inside the fenderwell. So on a stock rim, widening will definitely require a spacer. (Probably even the BFH mod as well.)
Old 06-27-2005, 02:09 PM
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Hey "thesoundandthefury" i have a question for you.... with a +38mm offset even on the fron tires you are adding 1.5 inches = which is about 38.09999999mm... now if you add that to your existing 38mm you have about + 66.1 mm offset. So i dont understand how your going to fit your tires/rims on your car, if your just going to split the rims in the back..... I Have Evo's on my car with the same offset as you but mine are 18X9 all around, and i dont think that i can even widen the rims 1 inch, as i have showed you....
Old 06-27-2005, 05:25 PM
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anybody?
Old 06-29-2005, 07:59 PM
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FLAWLS1: I've already test fitted my wheels, and I'm going to have to use the BFH mod and remove the bump stops, but they fit. You should have no problems widening your wheels 1 inch, since with a 9 inch wide wheel at the same offset as mine, your wheels are actually out a little further than mine are. (Like, a half inch.) So you actually have about a half inch more play towards the inside of the fenderwell on your wheel than I do. I know it looks deceiving, but the BFH mod is really what makes the difference. (Ask anybody in this forum who's running 17X11 ZR1's...)
Old 07-01-2005, 07:03 AM
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If you take a stock SS 9" 56mm offset 7" backspace rim and go 1 more inch in the back it makes it 8" backspacing and 69mm offset.
If you go 1 1/2", 8 1/2" backspace is 75mm offset.
Im almost sure.
Im making a chart for all this stuff, Ill post it later.
The chart will show how to fit 12" rims in the back. w/ just a fender lip roll and a bfh. Also all the typ. rim's and offsets.
Old 07-01-2005, 02:07 PM
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That dosent make sence thesoundandthefury

First of all how can you test fit your wheels when where not done yet?

Second, With your rear wheels, you just going to widen them in the rear by 2.5 inches?? Thats not going to work... i dont think that you remember that the guys with 17X11's are running a 56ish offset, your not going to have that if you widend your rims, youll have like over a 100+ offset.... hahah ya not going to work...

yikes...
Old 07-02-2005, 11:52 AM
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FLAWLS1T/A: It's really hard to explain how this works without the use of a picture to demonstrate what I'm talking about, and I'm not computer savvy enough to create a chart with visual comparisons, so I'll just do the best I can to explain this. When you have a rim with any given width with any given offset, the reason that rim has that offset is because it was measured from the wheel's centerline. (Widthwise.) When you widen a wheel, the wheel now has a NEW centerline from which to measure offset. This is where it becomes tricky. You don't just measure the width of the strip of aluminum being welded in, convert that to millimeters, and then just tack that measurement onto the wheel's original offset measurement, because the wheel's centerline is now in a new position in relation to old centerline of the original width of the wheel. So basically how it works is, the new wheel's centerline in relation to the old centerline falls somewhere in the middle of the strip of aluminum that was used to widen the wheel. The only way you'd ever add THE ENTIRE AMOUNT of the widening strip's measurement to the offset of the wheel was if you started off with a wheel that had ZERO offset, (a wheel who's hub lines up directly with the centerline of the wheel), and cut the rim directly on the centerline and welded the widening strip behind that point. I took the liberty of taking some measurements of my wheels for you. On the 9.5's, the distance from the wheel's hub and the wheel's centerline is now at 1 7/8ths, which calculates to 47.8mm. (Round that to +48mm.) On the 10.5's, the distance from the hub to the centerline measures 2 3/8ths, which calculates to 55.6mm. (Round that to +56mm.) If you look at the "What Will Fit?" section of this forum, I'm sure you'll see that these offsets and widths fall perfectly into the acceptable range. And if you STILL don't believe me, stay tuned for the pics I'll be posting soon after the polishing job's finished.

P.S.- I'm thinking that this might be something that needs to be added to the "What Will Fit?" section, because it seems like there are alot of people interested in doing this.
Old 07-03-2005, 01:53 PM
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wow....thats a lot of info to take in, i wonder if it would hold just as strong as they were before the cut...
Old 07-03-2005, 06:27 PM
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Bingo... thanks i got it... that was a good explination. I just needed someting like this....



I was just a bit confused, but now that i understand how it works, im REALLY going to lookinto getting my rims done....

again thanks a lot...
Old 07-03-2005, 06:41 PM
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I cant seem to post my chart////
Attached Thumbnails rim widening??-backspaceoffset-copy.jpg  
Old 07-03-2005, 06:51 PM
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check mine out... i just made it....
Old 07-03-2005, 06:51 PM
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Old 07-04-2005, 08:06 PM
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the left side is the inner wheel well
Attached Thumbnails rim widening??-offsetbackspace3.jpg  
Old 09-29-2005, 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by thesoundandthefury
FLAWLS1T/A: It's really hard to explain how this works without the use of a picture to demonstrate what I'm talking about, and I'm not computer savvy enough to create a chart with visual comparisons, so I'll just do the best I can to explain this. When you have a rim with any given width with any given offset, the reason that rim has that offset is because it was measured from the wheel's centerline. (Widthwise.) When you widen a wheel, the wheel now has a NEW centerline from which to measure offset. This is where it becomes tricky. You don't just measure the width of the strip of aluminum being welded in, convert that to millimeters, and then just tack that measurement onto the wheel's original offset measurement, because the wheel's centerline is now in a new position in relation to old centerline of the original width of the wheel. So basically how it works is, the new wheel's centerline in relation to the old centerline falls somewhere in the middle of the strip of aluminum that was used to widen the wheel. The only way you'd ever add THE ENTIRE AMOUNT of the widening strip's measurement to the offset of the wheel was if you started off with a wheel that had ZERO offset, (a wheel who's hub lines up directly with the centerline of the wheel), and cut the rim directly on the centerline and welded the widening strip behind that point. I took the liberty of taking some measurements of my wheels for you. On the 9.5's, the distance from the wheel's hub and the wheel's centerline is now at 1 7/8ths, which calculates to 47.8mm. (Round that to +48mm.) On the 10.5's, the distance from the hub to the centerline measures 2 3/8ths, which calculates to 55.6mm. (Round that to +56mm.) If you look at the "What Will Fit?" section of this forum, I'm sure you'll see that these offsets and widths fall perfectly into the acceptable range. And if you STILL don't believe me, stay tuned for the pics I'll be posting soon after the polishing job's finished.

P.S.- I'm thinking that this might be something that needs to be added to the "What Will Fit?" section, because it seems like there are alot of people interested in doing this.

Wrong you new offset is going to be 70mm! How did they fit?
Old 09-30-2005, 09:18 AM
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Mathmatically:

The reworked front wheels will have a 57.1 mm offset (38mm + 50% 1.5")

The reworked rear wheels will have a 69.9 mm offset. (38 mm + 50% 2.5")

Both wheels for "ideal" appearance will need spacers, but the rear will definitely need a spacer to fit.




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