15x3.5 Welds - LT1 ?
07-19-2005, 10:05 PM
#1
15x3.5 Welds - LT1 ? Ignore the sig pic, photoshop makes things happen the easy way.....Got my front skinnies today, went to put them on without a spacer....bolted them up, and they were so close to the caliper i couldnt even rotate the wheel. is running the 5/16" spacer gonna be enough to clear, or am I going to have to grind. and with the spacer, do I have to run longer studs, which i dont want to do.
thanks
thanks
07-19-2005, 10:11 PM
#2
it's not only the caliper that is an issue. It is the brake spring clips that get in the way. Do not cut them off...your going to be stuck running a spacer or getting wheels that don't need clearancing.
Good luck,
Steve
Good luck,
Steve
07-20-2005, 11:42 AM
#5
the calipers float not to mention tolorances vary. Depending on how new the pads are or what brand will affect clearance issues. LT1, when you put new pads on, verify they still clear. Generally, LT1's need to shave the cooling fins off the rears.
Steve
Steve
07-20-2005, 04:21 PM
#7
Good luck. Don't forget that you NEED long studs in the front and back. Especially when you add a spacer. It is not safe to run it without longer studs. Technically, even with the 2.5 ARP studs, it won't pass tech. The center section where the bolts go through is very wide...this is what causes an issue especially when your adding spacers.
The weld prostar/draglight series wheel provides a good ecomony-minded choice for an LT1/LS1 F-body. LS1 cars have to do a bit more additional work to make them fit.
For the folks whom want a high-end lighter no fitment issue choice, our Bogarts are a great choice.
Steve
The weld prostar/draglight series wheel provides a good ecomony-minded choice for an LT1/LS1 F-body. LS1 cars have to do a bit more additional work to make them fit.
For the folks whom want a high-end lighter no fitment issue choice, our Bogarts are a great choice.
Steve
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07-20-2005, 06:43 PM
#9
The stick on lead weight work well.. just be certain they don't put them near the caliper where it is tight. A tip for you is to run a very thin bead of rtv around the lead weight afterwards so that it doesn't fall off under heat if they are sitting and the car isn't being used.
Also clean the wheel with degreaser before you take it to them so that there is no coating on the inside where they stick them on. On our wheels, many times there is polishing compound residue that can be removed with wax and grease remover...just part of the process when a wheel is highly polished. The welds may be different.
Steve
Also clean the wheel with degreaser before you take it to them so that there is no coating on the inside where they stick them on. On our wheels, many times there is polishing compound residue that can be removed with wax and grease remover...just part of the process when a wheel is highly polished. The welds may be different.
Steve
07-20-2005, 06:49 PM
#10
Originally Posted by steve10
The stick on lead weight work well.. just be certain they don't put them near the caliper where it is tight.
07-20-2005, 07:06 PM
#11
that sucks...can they put them back on for you?...or maybe if you see the marks, you can put them on yourself and be close.
It's ok...at some point, if you decide to change over to our Bogarts, I'll help you out. They aren't for everyone's budget. We receive many orders which are a change over from the welds prostar/draglite combos over time. Pro-stock John finally changed over...he's been thinking about them for some time, he should have his set by now or the next few days (he bought them used).
It's ok...at some point, if you decide to change over to our Bogarts, I'll help you out. They aren't for everyone's budget. We receive many orders which are a change over from the welds prostar/draglite combos over time. Pro-stock John finally changed over...he's been thinking about them for some time, he should have his set by now or the next few days (he bought them used).