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I need your help Wise Rim God's!!!

Old 03-24-2006, 02:36 AM
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Unhappy I need your help Wise Rim God's!!!

Will BMW rims with a bolt pattern 5X120 with a Center Bore of 72.6 MM fit my 1998 SS? The fronts are 19X8.5 with a 1.5" lip & the rears are 19X9.5 with a 2.5" lip. They say the offset is 38. I have old school 18X9.5 ZO6's right now and I want a new look. I don't want to spend the cash on some rims that are not going to fit right and end off flying off the car when I'm on the highway. I read something in the past about BMW rims, but I tried the search and nothing. Any of your info would be great. Thank you for reading this and LS1Tech.com
Old 03-24-2006, 08:09 AM
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https://ls1tech.com/forums/wheels-tires/470144-camaro-firebird-bolt-pattern.html

will they "bolt up"...yes

will they stay on and/or cause unneeded stress on your studs.....maybe, maybe not

is it recommended....no

would I do it....hell no

Last edited by JR HAWK 9; 03-24-2006 at 08:43 AM.
Old 03-24-2006, 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by MasterOfPuppets
Will BMW rims with a bolt pattern 5X120 with a Center Bore of 72.6 MM fit my 1998 SS? The fronts are 19X8.5 with a 1.5" lip & the rears are 19X9.5 with a 2.5" lip. They say the offset is 38. I have old school 18X9.5 ZO6's right now and I want a new look. I don't want to spend the cash on some rims that are not going to fit right and end off flying off the car when I'm on the highway. I read something in the past about BMW rims, but I tried the search and nothing. Any of your info would be great. Thank you for reading this and LS1Tech.com
HP Evo's have these exact same specs. There are TONS of people running them. In fact, they're probably one of the top 10 most popular wheels in 4th gen history. So far, nobody who's owned them has reported experiencing the catastrophic scenario of one of their wheels flying off while going down the highway that some people like to claim is destined to happen. Don't believe the hype. Get some hubcentric rings and you'll be fine.
Old 03-24-2006, 09:30 AM
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more power to the people that run a 5x120 bolt pattern, I guess I don't like taking chances with stuff like that. I would also think w/o hubcentric rings that you would increase your chances of having a vibration due to the improper bolt pattern. As soon as you would tighten one of the lugs you would introduce 0.33mm of runout. This would also leave the lug 180 out to not seat properly by 0.65mm and cause uneeded lateral stress on the studs.
Old 03-24-2006, 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by thesoundandthefury
There are TONS of people running them.
And that makes it acceptable? Safe? . . . There are TONS of people who drink and drive . . .?

So far, nobody who's owned them has reported experiencing the catastrophic scenario of one of their wheels flying off while going down the highway that some people like to claim is destined to happen.
Guess you don't read the forums . . .

Don't believe the hype. Get some hubcentric rings and you'll be fine.
Uh huh . . .

Your wheels and tires are the ONLY 4 things keeping your car shiney side up.
Old 03-24-2006, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by JR HAWK 9
I would also think w/o hubcentric rings that you would increase your chances of having a vibration due to the improper bolt pattern.
It does.

Originally Posted by JR HAWK 9
As soon as you would tighten one of the lugs you would introduce 0.33mm of runout. This would also leave the lug 180 out to not seat properly by 0.65mm and cause uneeded lateral stress on the studs.
By using hubcentric rings, this allows you to divide the 0.65mm bolt spacing difference in half since all the bolt holes will be evenly aligned with all the lugs in reference to wheel center. 0.33mm calculates to 0.012 inches. I would venture to say that with only 1/100th of an inch worth of "pressure" being applied to the outermost edge of each bolt hole, the brunt of this is probably softened by the threads inside of each hole collapsing. (Thread depth at 1/100th of an inch seems about right.) Something else to keep in mind is that even though there is .65mm less tolerance to work with in fitment, a 120mm spaced wheel will still slip on and off a 120.65mm hub without force being required. This is the most important aspect to consider because it indicates that there is very little if any preload introduced to the wheel studs. If hubcentric rings were not used then this would be a different scenario since the "lopsided" movement of the wheel would increase lateral g's, (probably exponentially), on 4 of the studs. So, hubcentric rings are key in making that bolt pattern work.
Old 03-24-2006, 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Xsta Z28
And that makes it acceptable? Safe? . . . There are TONS of people who drink and drive . . .?
Apples and oranges. You can scientifically prove how something mechanical will break when it is introduced to certain forces/conditions. You CAN'T however scientifically prove which people out of a random selection of 100 will make it home safely after drinking. WAYYY too many other variables to consider.

Guess you don't read the forums . . .
I guess I don't. Would you mind posting some threads about 120mm bolt spacing wheels breaking off please?

Uh huh . . .

Your wheels and tires are the ONLY 4 things keeping your car shiney side up.
Couldn't agree more. And it would seem that if this were as high of a risk as some people would be willing to believe, it would seem logical that wheel vendors would wanna avoid selling wheels with this bolt spacing to f-body owners like the plague. But here is a short list of vendors who do:

www.wheelmax.com
http://stores.ebay.com/The-Speed-Depot
www.fbodymotorsports.com
www.hawksthirdgenparts.com
www.camarosource.com

Seems like with as many lawsuit happy people roaming around these days, selling this pattern of wheel to F-body owners with that much "liability" would have put alot of people out of business don'tcha think?

Last edited by thesoundandthefury; 03-24-2006 at 12:40 PM.
Old 03-25-2006, 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by thesoundandthefury
It does.



By using hubcentric rings, this allows you to divide the 0.65mm bolt spacing difference in half since all the bolt holes will be evenly aligned with all the lugs in reference to wheel center. 0.33mm calculates to 0.012 inches. I would venture to say that with only 1/100th of an inch worth of "pressure" being applied to the outermost edge of each bolt hole, the brunt of this is probably softened by the threads inside of each hole collapsing. (Thread depth at 1/100th of an inch seems about right.) Something else to keep in mind is that even though there is .65mm less tolerance to work with in fitment, a 120mm spaced wheel will still slip on and off a 120.65mm hub without force being required. This is the most important aspect to consider because it indicates that there is very little if any preload introduced to the wheel studs. If hubcentric rings were not used then this would be a different scenario since the "lopsided" movement of the wheel would increase lateral g's, (probably exponentially), on 4 of the studs. So, hubcentric rings are key in making that bolt pattern work.
I did a search on these hubcentric rings.1) Which ones are better, billet/metal rings or the plastic rings. 2) where can I buy these rings? 3) What size ring do I need for the hub? The rims are 19's and pretty much look like HPR5's. here is the info on the rims again.

:19X8.5 With 1.5" Lip & 19X9.5 With 2.5" Lip

:38 Offset

:Bolt Pattern: 5X120

:Center Bore: 72.6MM

I want to thank everyone and keep the info coming. Post pictures of your set up your running on your car and maybe on the rings too. I hope I'm not the only person going through this right now.
Old 03-25-2006, 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by thesoundandthefury
Apples and oranges. You can scientifically prove how something mechanical will break when it is introduced to certain forces/conditions. You CAN'T however scientifically prove which people out of a random selection of 100 will make it home safely after drinking. WAYYY too many other variables to consider.
The idea I got is that the numbers of people who engage in a practice is not an indication of whether that practice is safe. And even when testing mechanical items, especially devices involving multiple components, there are variables that must be considered.
Old 03-25-2006, 01:38 PM
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Personally I have used the 5x120 pattern, and I will use it again. The reason that the 5x120 pattern is used so often is because of this. The only reasonable priced wheels in the 120.65 pattern are wayyyy played out (C5, Z06, ZR1, etc.) Unless you have a small fortune to spend on wheels in hopes of being different (iforged, Fikse, HRE, CCW, etc) You are almost forced to go with the 120 pattern. And the average car guy is not going to spend $3K+ on a set of wheels. Its just out of our budget, plain and simple.

Last edited by slayer6x6; 03-25-2006 at 03:14 PM.
Old 03-25-2006, 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Deep Blue
The idea I got is that the numbers of people who engage in a practice is not an indication of whether that practice is safe. And even when testing mechanical items, especially devices involving multiple components, there are variables that must be considered.
The number 100 I used is arbitrary. You could use 1,000, you could use 1 million: it doesn't matter. The point here is that with a wheel, you can conduct a controlled experiment where all the variables introduced to that wheel are decided upon and calculated by the person performing the testing.

People are not wheels however. If you could somehow come up with a way to decipher the physiological differences and how each were impacted by alchohol to be found in any random sampling of humans, you'd then have to contend with the infinitely random conditions/circumstances that any person could be confronted with during any driving session. If by some miracle you were able to quantify all of those variables and apply the scientific method to them, you would then be left with accounting for the human mind and how it would interact with/be affected by any of the other variables in the whole experiment. (I'm sure I'm still leaving alot out of the equation, but you get the idea.) The bottom line is, in order to come up with any useful data that would actually prove anything, you'd have to figure out a way to control a random sampling of humans' reality, which unless you're God is kind've hard to do.
Old 03-25-2006, 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by MasterOfPuppets
I did a search on these hubcentric rings.1) Which ones are better, billet/metal rings or the plastic rings. 2) where can I buy these rings? 3) What size ring do I need for the hub? The rims are 19's and pretty much look like HPR5's. here is the info on the rims again.

:19X8.5 With 1.5" Lip & 19X9.5 With 2.5" Lip

:38 Offset

:Bolt Pattern: 5X120

:Center Bore: 72.6MM

I want to thank everyone and keep the info coming. Post pictures of your set up your running on your car and maybe on the rings too. I hope I'm not the only person going through this right now.
The ones you need are here:

http://www.ezaccessory.com/Hub_Centr...p/hcr110-4.htm

I haven't performed any comparison tests between the two, but common sense would dictate that polycarbon is going to absorb vibration/shock a little better than aluminum.
Old 03-25-2006, 10:17 PM
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Running Evos here with those same specifications you just posted. No problems whatsoever. I'm running hubcentrics rings also. No vibrations. Of course for the love of God use common sense and check your wheel lugs from time to time!

Old 03-25-2006, 11:57 PM
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Originally Posted by thesoundandthefury
The ones you need are here:

http://www.ezaccessory.com/Hub_Centr...p/hcr110-4.htm

I haven't performed any comparison tests between the two, but common sense would dictate that polycarbon is going to absorb vibration/shock a little better than aluminum.
Thanks S&F!!!
Old 03-26-2006, 04:12 AM
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Originally Posted by slayer6x6
Personally I have used the 5x120 pattern, and I will use it again. The reason that the 5x120 pattern is used so often is because of this. The only reasonable priced wheels in the 120.65 pattern are wayyyy played out (C5, Z06, ZR1, etc.) Unless you have a small fortune to spend on wheels in hopes of being different (iforged, Fikse, HRE, CCW, etc) You are almost forced to go with the 120 pattern. And the average car guy is not going to spend $3K+ on a set of wheels. Its just out of our budget, plain and simple.
Slayer read my mind. The set of rims I'm looking at look like HPR5's, but they come in chrome. The best part is they only cost $935 for the set out the door! Every other set I like in 19's are around the $2000-$3000 dollar range. So, I'm stuck with the 5X120 pattern.
Old 03-26-2006, 04:31 AM
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Originally Posted by MasterOfPuppets
Slayer read my mind. The set of rims I'm looking at look like HPR5's, but they come in chrome. The best part is they only cost $935 for the set out the door! Every other set I like in 19's are around the $2000-$3000 dollar range. So, I'm stuck with the 5X120 pattern.
What wheel is it?
Old 03-26-2006, 08:49 AM
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Yea, Slayer is right. I'm selling my CBR600RR just so I can afford the wheels of my dreams. God only knows how much I love my car. Somebody pinch me, did I just say I'm selling my motorcycle for a set of wheels. Man I'm loosin' my mind.


Yea, iForged Aeros WILL BE MINE!!!!!
Old 03-27-2006, 11:28 PM
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is there really not anything between 1k and 3k for the F-bodies?

it just seems like there should be some options for wheels in the 4 to 5 hundred a wheel category, as well as some in the 3 hundreds or 6 hundreds
Old 03-28-2006, 02:27 AM
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Originally Posted by thesoundandthefury
What wheel is it?
I saw them on Ebay. I forgot the item number, but just do a search under (19 5X120 rims) with the Search title and description box checked and the you'll see the rims that looks like a HPR5, but in chrome. Hope this helps.
Old 03-28-2006, 03:46 AM
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Those look sweet, I wish they came in 18's. I think 19's are a bit too big for F-bodies.

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