how do you get traction??
03-29-2007, 07:48 PM
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how do you get traction?? i just got a 2002 WS6 w/ SLP airlid and GMMG cat-back and have 285's out back, and i can't get 'em to hook! i was looking at 17" C5's but 285 is the widest tire i can get, as far as i know (?). was looking into BFGoodrich gforces, or any tire that has good durability and grip. if i'm to get 285's, how am i supposed to hook up, even with my car in stock condition, much less when i mod it (including power adders)? i've been researching it like hell and somehow i'm unable to answer my questions (other than to get a different wheel style). also, i don't know how much it matters, but how much to fatter tires affect mileage?
03-29-2007, 08:04 PM
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I'm pretty much in the same boat as you are, and I've come to the conclusion that drag radials are pretty much mandatory for these cars. The compound of the tire is much more important that the width.
03-30-2007, 12:40 AM
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I had the same issues.....hell look at my license plate...
That's despite having all this stuff under the car....
That would be a Spohn adjustable body mounted torque arm with rod ends and longer bolts to hold it to the rear, SLP SFC's, BMR LCA's, and a UMI double adjustable rod ended panhard bar.
But despite that, I had no traction, at all! Engine has a few mods too: Stainless Works headers, QTP cutout, B&B Triflo exhaust, LS6 intake, Direct Flo lid, ported Throttle body, throttle body coolant bypass, NGK TR55IX plugs, Taylor 10.4 mm wires, LS6 ported oil pump, ASP Pulley, TR 224 .563 112LSA cam, 918 springs, hardened pushrods, and a few other things were the culprit, plus the age and condition of my Yokohama Tires.
(This is an older picture, doesn't show the panhard bar and cutout yet)
Anyways...last tuesday I mounted these:
No more traction issues!
My car's a 6 speed, stock gears, stock clutch.
Follow the recipe, you should be good to go!
That's despite having all this stuff under the car....
That would be a Spohn adjustable body mounted torque arm with rod ends and longer bolts to hold it to the rear, SLP SFC's, BMR LCA's, and a UMI double adjustable rod ended panhard bar.
But despite that, I had no traction, at all! Engine has a few mods too: Stainless Works headers, QTP cutout, B&B Triflo exhaust, LS6 intake, Direct Flo lid, ported Throttle body, throttle body coolant bypass, NGK TR55IX plugs, Taylor 10.4 mm wires, LS6 ported oil pump, ASP Pulley, TR 224 .563 112LSA cam, 918 springs, hardened pushrods, and a few other things were the culprit, plus the age and condition of my Yokohama Tires.
(This is an older picture, doesn't show the panhard bar and cutout yet)
Anyways...last tuesday I mounted these:
No more traction issues!
My car's a 6 speed, stock gears, stock clutch.
Follow the recipe, you should be good to go!
Last edited by MannyZ28; 03-30-2007 at 12:46 AM.
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03-30-2007, 05:41 PM
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don't floor it everywere. There, no more traction issues. These cars ffrom the factory would peel out from a stop, so once the mods start...forget it, just modulate the right foot with the pedal, you should do better that way.
03-30-2007, 05:50 PM
#9
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Originally Posted by SLPHawk300
don't floor it everywere. There, no more traction issues. These cars ffrom the factory would peel out from a stop, so once the mods start...forget it, just modulate the right foot with the pedal, you should do better that way.
03-30-2007, 11:43 PM
#12
Originally Posted by MannyZ28
I had the same issues.....hell look at my license plate...
That's despite having all this stuff under the car....
That would be a Spohn adjustable body mounted torque arm with rod ends and longer bolts to hold it to the rear, SLP SFC's, BMR LCA's, and a UMI double adjustable rod ended panhard bar.
But despite that, I had no traction, at all! Engine has a few mods too: Stainless Works headers, QTP cutout, B&B Triflo exhaust, LS6 intake, Direct Flo lid, ported Throttle body, throttle body coolant bypass, NGK TR55IX plugs, Taylor 10.4 mm wires, LS6 ported oil pump, ASP Pulley, TR 224 .563 112LSA cam, 918 springs, hardened pushrods, and a few other things were the culprit, plus the age and condition of my Yokohama Tires.
(This is an older picture, doesn't show the panhard bar and cutout yet)
Anyways...last tuesday I mounted these:
No more traction issues!
My car's a 6 speed, stock gears, stock clutch.
Follow the recipe, you should be good to go!
That's despite having all this stuff under the car....
That would be a Spohn adjustable body mounted torque arm with rod ends and longer bolts to hold it to the rear, SLP SFC's, BMR LCA's, and a UMI double adjustable rod ended panhard bar.
But despite that, I had no traction, at all! Engine has a few mods too: Stainless Works headers, QTP cutout, B&B Triflo exhaust, LS6 intake, Direct Flo lid, ported Throttle body, throttle body coolant bypass, NGK TR55IX plugs, Taylor 10.4 mm wires, LS6 ported oil pump, ASP Pulley, TR 224 .563 112LSA cam, 918 springs, hardened pushrods, and a few other things were the culprit, plus the age and condition of my Yokohama Tires.
(This is an older picture, doesn't show the panhard bar and cutout yet)
Anyways...last tuesday I mounted these:
No more traction issues!
My car's a 6 speed, stock gears, stock clutch.
Follow the recipe, you should be good to go!
You can have all that stuff and not make a difference.
The things i see wrong with your's:
No LCA relocation brackets
Non-adjustable LCAs
Stock anti-roll bar.
Change those things out and it will be a world of difference. Non-adjustable LCAs aren't worth much, and without a nice upward slope on the LCA, you won't feel much either.
03-31-2007, 12:14 AM
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Originally Posted by SiL3NtXWS6
You can have all that stuff and not make a difference.
The things i see wrong with your's:
No LCA relocation brackets
Non-adjustable LCAs
Stock anti-roll bar.
Change those things out and it will be a world of difference. Non-adjustable LCAs aren't worth much, and without a nice upward slope on the LCA, you won't feel much either.
The things i see wrong with your's:
No LCA relocation brackets
Non-adjustable LCAs
Stock anti-roll bar.
Change those things out and it will be a world of difference. Non-adjustable LCAs aren't worth much, and without a nice upward slope on the LCA, you won't feel much either.
But those are certainly things I may upgrade when I am bored. For now, I am very happy with how the car handles and with how much traction I get.
03-31-2007, 10:41 AM
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perhaps this Holy Grail of 285-305 [durable] street tires getting good traction with stiff suspension and big power is unattainable? i'm not a drag racer so maybe i'm just asking too much. and while i'm at it, could C5 or C6 wheels be stretched a bit to accomodate wider tires (i know nothing about it)?
Last edited by whitedevilWS6; 03-31-2007 at 10:53 AM.
03-31-2007, 11:10 AM
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Keep in mind that too much traction will most likely result in making the stock rear to take a ****. Although from what I hear some stock rears will hold up better than others. I rebuilt mine at 45000 miles. I now have 60000 miles on it and when I put my eibach springs in last week I noticed the rear was leaking 
. I wish a had 2 grand to buy something better!
. I wish a had 2 grand to buy something better! 
04-06-2007, 09:16 AM
#17
Suspension is key. If i tighten up the front and rear of my car, i will spin my 325 DRs from an 80 hit. If i set it up for weight transfer, i can dead hook from any speed.
04-06-2007, 09:58 AM
#19
If ur car is lowered, then relocation brackets are a must. I had the same issue and then installed them and they worked great. i changed my rims from 17s to 19s. alot of ppl have problems with traction with the 19s. i still get great traction. the owner b4 me for the 19s sold them just because he wasnt gettin any traction. u might want to look into those. they are not that expensive(compared to a new set of tires) and they bolt on or weld on pretty easy.