Spacer in back for prostars or just grind?
04-09-2007, 06:24 AM
#1
Spacer in back for prostars or just grind? Just looking for everyones opinions, i started grinding to run no spacer and DAMN it takes a lot off 
Would i be better off to throw a 5/16 spacer in there and grind less? Or are spacers no good..i have 2.5" hardened arp studs. Thanks all 
Would i be better off to throw a 5/16 spacer in there and grind less? Or are spacers no good..i have 2.5" hardened arp studs. Thanks all 
04-09-2007, 07:41 AM
#3
Thats what i was thinking, and it appears even bumped out i shouldn't have an issue w/the fender lip.. i just thought i always remembered people saying not to run spacers they were no good.. i was looking at the nice billet ones though. Thanks!
any longer and my street rims will look like sh$t
04-09-2007, 11:55 AM
#6
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The grinding should not compromise anything on the brakes system unless you over do it. Its mostly just contouring the caliper to the shape of the wheel. If you feel like you are getting into the body of the caliper, you're probably grinding the wrong areas. Just take your time and it'll look stock when you're finished.
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04-09-2007, 12:21 PM
#8
well i started doing one side and it ended up going all the way through the caliper in two top spots so i got nervous and stopped...actually ordered a new caliper even. A few people posted pictures i found and stated this is normal? I already ordered a new caliper and put it on, but it looks like i'll put the old one back on..
Did you all go through the caliper when you were grinding?
And yes the aluminum dust SUCKS i was picking it out of everywhere
Did you all go through the caliper when you were grinding?
And yes the aluminum dust SUCKS i was picking it out of everywhere
04-09-2007, 02:05 PM
#11
Originally Posted by nikon1999
well your running a spacer..thats why..i was trying to grind it w/no spacer, i'll post pics up when i get home
04-09-2007, 08:03 PM
#15
The 2 dimples should be gone, you need to grind more towards the face. I don't really have an opinion with the way you've already done it. If you don't feel safe, then stop grinding and start on another caliper.
The dimples were LONG gone on mine before I was able to stop grinding.
04-09-2007, 11:00 PM
#17
Calipers can and do crack from excessive material removed. There was a member on here (can't recall the name) but his did crack and he totaled his car.
The safest route is to start over, there appears to be too much material removed. Use spacers front/rear, there is too much material needed to be removed to run them without spacers. You will compromise the strength of the calipers…even with spacers; you do as well…but are the lesser of two evils.
You're wheel choices may be valid, and hopefully you are happy with your setup. I respect your decision with the wheels you chose. The reasons why I consistently post differences between our Bogart wheels and economy wheels are for the exact issues that you are having. I post quite often with my comments, not to sound like a broken record or tell folks our wheels are the best thing next to sliced bread…I post my re-post comments since many folks still are not aware of our setups and many do not really understand why our wheels make more sense and show concrete benefits over an economy style wheel.
You may think this way now as well seeing that you invested in new calipers and appear to have quite a mess on your hands now. The time and money you’ve now spent may have brought you closer to the cost of our wheels…in the end, you’ll still have a comparably heavy wheel and not of show quality. Many folks really do not know how vastly different our wheels are in comparison to an economy weld or centerline wheel...I know hindsight is 20/20, our Bogart wheels which are made for your car. Using our wheels also would have helped you reduce about 50lbs of converted static weight over your current prostar wheels.
As another member mentioned, 3.25" studs are necessary for the car especially if you're using spacers, he is correct. Even without the spacers, you're not legal with 2.5” studs like you currently use. You need a MIN of 3" studs to pass tech with the prostar/draglite combo. Our wheels relieve the super long stud issues as well. ...You only need ~1/4-3/8" longer then stock to pass tech with our wheels (LS1 design). Studs length varies with how we build the wheels. LT1 F-bodies should just pass tech with stock studs. A drag brake setup passes with flying colors using the stock studs!
Hopefully, you get everything ironed out and you’re satisfied with your choices. I do wish you luck.
The safest route is to start over, there appears to be too much material removed. Use spacers front/rear, there is too much material needed to be removed to run them without spacers. You will compromise the strength of the calipers…even with spacers; you do as well…but are the lesser of two evils.
You're wheel choices may be valid, and hopefully you are happy with your setup. I respect your decision with the wheels you chose. The reasons why I consistently post differences between our Bogart wheels and economy wheels are for the exact issues that you are having. I post quite often with my comments, not to sound like a broken record or tell folks our wheels are the best thing next to sliced bread…I post my re-post comments since many folks still are not aware of our setups and many do not really understand why our wheels make more sense and show concrete benefits over an economy style wheel.
You may think this way now as well seeing that you invested in new calipers and appear to have quite a mess on your hands now. The time and money you’ve now spent may have brought you closer to the cost of our wheels…in the end, you’ll still have a comparably heavy wheel and not of show quality. Many folks really do not know how vastly different our wheels are in comparison to an economy weld or centerline wheel...I know hindsight is 20/20, our Bogart wheels which are made for your car. Using our wheels also would have helped you reduce about 50lbs of converted static weight over your current prostar wheels.
As another member mentioned, 3.25" studs are necessary for the car especially if you're using spacers, he is correct. Even without the spacers, you're not legal with 2.5” studs like you currently use. You need a MIN of 3" studs to pass tech with the prostar/draglite combo. Our wheels relieve the super long stud issues as well. ...You only need ~1/4-3/8" longer then stock to pass tech with our wheels (LS1 design). Studs length varies with how we build the wheels. LT1 F-bodies should just pass tech with stock studs. A drag brake setup passes with flying colors using the stock studs!
Hopefully, you get everything ironed out and you’re satisfied with your choices. I do wish you luck.
04-10-2007, 06:10 AM
#20
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You don't have to pull your rear end apart. On the backing plate there is the abs sensor. just remove this and line the stud up with the hole. I used an air wrench to pull the stud through. Was a piece of cake.