allout06

iTrader: (11)

Car in my sig plus these parts i just ordered...

MWC 9" Fabricated Rear End

35 spline lightened spool from Strange
Strange nodular center section
Daytona pinion support
Oil fill and drain plugs
1/2'' x 2'' Wheel studs
Back brace
35 Spline Strange axles
3.89 Motive gear
3ch ABS
Powder coated black
Swaybar mounts
Lower control arm relocation brackets
PST 3.5" drive shaft w/ forged slip-yokes and beefier 1350 series U-joints

Suspension..
MWC Sub Frame connectors (weld in)
MWC adjustable panhard bar
MWC adjustable lower control arms
MWC adjustable short torque arm
MWC cross member w/ driveshaft safety loop and relocation bracket for torque arm
Strano sway bars
Strano springs
bilstein shocks (maybe single adjustable konis)
Founders performance strut tower brace

MSD 2-step
SLP Line lock


Im an M6 car with a diamond stage 2 clutch, stock T56 internally. What do you guys think? Itll be the first time at the track. Not sure what size tires to run yet though.

thanks!

Prorac1

iTrader: (4)

IMHO, with 571 RWHP you should be able to break 10s without a problem. As long as you can put it down and get through the gears. Again, IMHO, the stock T56 will be the next link in the chain to break. Best of luck. Eric L

allout06

iTrader: (11)

I hope so. Hopefully the trnny will hold for awhile. Ill probably run a 28" slick and launch it at like 5000k rpm or so... i would like it to run a 10.6x or better.

BrianSF-GA

From what I have read, as long as you don't power shift and treat the T-56 with some respect, it will hold together. I am at 500/500 with a stock T-56 and I am hoping it will hold together until next year and then I am planning a Tick build and bellhousing. Without a bellhousing right now, I am not planning any 5000 launches and am starting with a 27" Hoosier QTP then graduate to a 28" ET Drag if need be.

BayAreaSS

iTrader: (10)

That setup should run a 10.6 on a shake down pass. Bottom 10s shouldn't be very hard

dodson55

iTrader: (18)

mid to low 10s easily

allout06

iTrader: (11)

Low 10's would be sweet. I went a different route with the shocks though... Decided to get strange DA Front coil overs and strange SA rear coil overs.

TurboStangJON

iTrader: (27)

Should run very low 10's. What's it weigh? I went 10.20's while at 3000 pounds with 420hp.

allout06

iTrader: (11)

im not sure what it weighs, never had it weighed. but its def a full weight car and i weigh 190

BrianSF-GA

FYI ... I have read that the truck scales at the truck stops (Cat Scale) are within 20# or so of being accurate. With that said, my 2002 SS with a 402 LS2, M6, S60, leather, no TC and hardtop (no t-tops) at a local truck stop came in at (no driver) ...

... 3,460# (1,940# front, 1,520# rear) with 9.5/11 17" ZR1's w/275/315 Nitto 555's

and

... 3,380# (1,900# front, 1,480# rear) with 4/10 15" RT-S's w/26x7.50 M/T Sportsman 8-ply's/27x11.5 Hoosier QTP's

TurboStangJON

iTrader: (27)

Landfills have certified scales which are very accurate. It would be nice to know the weight just to get some idea of what kind of power your making down the track plus a baseline if you (the car) ever decide to lose weight.

allout06

iTrader: (11)

im up for losing weight! lol. my fat *** is gonna start running. looking to b around 170 so thats 20lbs....haha. thought about getting rid of the rear seats since i dont use em and no one can sit back there anyway cuz my tires will rub. but its a street car, i dont wanna gut it completely. ill try to find a scale soon and see what her big *** weighs. i have 18x10.5's and 18x8's z06 deep dishes right now, with nto1 315 and 275's...soo that probably doent help....gotta find a cheap set of drag wheels and tires

BrianSF-GA

Actually, I called a local scrap metal yard that weighs in and out similar to a landfill and they told me their scales were certified down to 20#.

BrianSF-GA

Watch those "cheap" sets of drag wheels .... most of them require grinding of an fbody's "big" calipers to fit. Also be careful buying used drag tires ... they have a four year service life so be sure to check the manufacture date (last four digits of the TIN ... two-digit week & two-digit year). The last thing you want to do is get taken buying a set of used or NOS (new old stock) slicks or street slicks that will never hook.