Chassis mods for 11's
 

I have a '99 WS-6 'vert with an A4 (Yank 3200) and a pretty well worked motor (383, AFR 205's, Comp 224/230, LS6 intake, FAST 78mm T/B). I've only had one run in the car. It was a 12.70 @ 112. Major wheelspin, 2.1 60-foot. Suspension is stock. I am running 26-inch ET Streets. I figure I've got the power for 11's (especially if I do something with the stock exhaust, which was hooked up during the pass). But something needs to happen with the suspension and tires. I'd really like to run 11's. What chassis mods do you suggest?

How the fuck are you only running 12.7's with an auto w/AFR 205's?

I think the shorty headers and otherwise stock exhaust is the main reason I'm not making maximum power. But the 112 mph trap indicates a lot more potential if I can get it to hook.

You need an adjustable torque arm, Lower control arms & some good tires to get a good 60'. I run the 16" ET Street Drag Radial. You might need a bigger stall. I went 11.91@111.94 with a 1.56 60'ft with 335 rwhp in my 98 T/A. Seems like you have the power.

I looked on the BMR site and saw I have different options for lower control arms. Do I need the adjustable arms, or are the non-adjustable arms the right length to get the chassis working right?

I reccomend purchasing all adjustable suspension products. An adjustable panhard bar if your car is lowered will center your rearend, adjustable lower control arms will also help center your rear, and an adjustable torque arm will dial in the pinion angle. The M/T drag radials are an excellent street/track tire.

Also, if your car is lowered or plan to be lowered it is reccomended to have the weld in lower control arm relocation brackets.

Something is wrong.. I had wore out ET streets on BONE stock 100+K miles suspension (less front sway bar) and was over power my tires spinning out of the hole w/ 1.6s... Was running 7.2s @ 95 or so..

Even running the correct ET for that mph you should be able to dead hook on a set of ET streets as long as they aren't shot. Hell 112mph is bolt on traps.

I would DEFINITELY try different tires (brand new ones) before I started on the suspension. Like Is said you should be able to dead hook with 26" full radials and/or slicks. Most cars with slicks or full radials are able to run at least mid-high 11s before they start spinning.

I agree, spend some money on tires 1st..That will set you back close to $400

I would try tires and unbolt your front sway bar. My suspension is stock except for nonadjustable lower control arms and I was able to run 11's. Don't just go throwing 1k or more at it yet.

If you unbolt it just take it off... Save a few extra #s on the front end at the same time.

11s is simple on stock suspension... Bottom 11s you have to have a 28" slicks... Anything quicker and you need suspension.

why do you guys recomend un bolting the front sway bar?

It just loosens up the front end so the rear tires plant & transfers weight to the rear..I took mine completely out like 5 years ago. I don't even notice.

Good to know thanks

Don't be an idiot and you have NOTHING to worry about. People say they can tell. The only way you can tell is if you are going to AutoX the car. Other than that it is the same as driving any other car.

Also, if you take the sway bar off, make sure to get the brackets off too... Will just save a few more #s.

Not trying to get off topic, but the only way you wouldn't be able to tell is if you had a rear anti-sway.

That front swaybar is a mjor piece and drives like total crap without it.

Made my car scary as all hell.

I guess all cars are different. None of my ls1s have had them and I have noticed much difference at all without them. Slightly? Sure. But not nearly enough to not take them out.