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11.27 on 26" radial

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Old 07-14-2014, 06:57 PM
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Default 11.27 on 26" radial

My last visit to the track I was able to pull off an 11.27 @ 120 with a 1.55 60ft in 1900 DA. I'm still on the stock rear with 3.23 gears and 26" Mickey ET street radials. Just thought I'd share with the people that don't visit the dyno section.
Attached Thumbnails 11.27 on 26" radial-scan_20140706.jpg  
Old 07-15-2014, 03:04 AM
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Congrats, what's the raceweight of the car? Better DA and you'll be knocking on 10's.
Old 07-15-2014, 02:09 PM
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Nice pass! I've been following your posts and build in the other sections and its impressive. Very similar to the build I'm planning. How hard were you launching the car?
Old 07-15-2014, 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by LS1rob00
Congrats, what's the raceweight of the car? Better DA and you'll be knocking on 10's.
I'm not sure of the exact weight but I pulled about 150lbs out of the car. I weigh 230lbs and had a half tank of gas in the car.
Old 07-15-2014, 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by SoonerBrad88
Nice pass! I've been following your posts and build in the other sections and its impressive. Very similar to the build I'm planning. How hard were you launching the car?
I tried launching it a few different ways but the best pass of the day I stalled it to 1500 before giving it full throttle.
Old 07-15-2014, 09:12 PM
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Man get a built rear with a gear and there and launch the **** out of it! I bet you cut a 1.3 or 1.4 60', 1.55 is still pretty darn good.
Old 07-15-2014, 09:44 PM
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To be honest, I was just glad that the rear held together. I want to get a 12 bolt over this winter and possibly a 4.11 gear. With that I hope that I could cut a 1.4X 60ft.
Old 07-16-2014, 02:30 AM
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I've got an S60 in mine and its great piece of mind. On a side not how much did you mill your heads? And what kind of compression did you see from it?
Old 07-16-2014, 06:48 AM
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I had them milled to 61cc and I'm running .040 gaskets. Using the calculators it comes in right around 11.3:1 with subtracting for the flycuts.
Old 07-16-2014, 09:53 AM
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Gotcha! Well keep us updated if you get that built rear and new times. And I hope I can get my build to put out at well as yours did.
Old 07-19-2014, 07:32 AM
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Originally Posted by SoonerBrad88
Man get a built rear with a gear and there and launch the **** out of it! I bet you cut a 1.3 or 1.4 60', 1.55 is still pretty darn good.
Uh, no. If you know of another way to launch an auto car any harder, please tell....not including a trans brake or a neutral drop. A bigger rear end (gears staying the same) will slow any car down due to the possibly added weight and definitely added drivetrain loss.
Old 07-19-2014, 03:58 PM
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He said he only launched it at 1500.... thats pretty low in my book. With a built rearend and a lower gear and that 4500 stall he's got I would say that car has more in it. Even with a little added extra weight of the rear. I would assume the car makes more torque at 4kish rpms than 1500. Therefore the car will leave harder.
Old 07-19-2014, 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by SoonerBrad88
He said he only launched it at 1500.... thats pretty low in my book. With a built rearend and a lower gear and that 4500 stall he's got I would say that car has more in it. Even with a little added extra weight of the rear. I would assume the car makes more torque at 4kish rpms than 1500. Therefore the car will leave harder.
This is not always true. Some torque converters will hit harder when "flashed" vs. braked to near or full stall. A torque converter builder could probably explain the dynamics of what is going on inside the converter, but I can tell you from decades of drag racing that you just have to experiment to see what the car likes.
Old 07-19-2014, 07:15 PM
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to expand on what speedtigger is saying some stalled setups like to be preloaded a bit others will take the full flash from an idle and hook hard , I am making the assumption that the poster is taking advantage of his stall convertor but is preloading to around 1500 rpm at the tree and flashing the stall up to its rating from there.

Tires , suspension , suspension setup , front rear weight bias all come into play when trying to get a car to 60 foot .
Old 07-20-2014, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by speedtigger
This is not always true. Some torque converters will hit harder when "flashed" vs. braked to near or full stall. A torque converter builder could probably explain the dynamics of what is going on inside the converter, but I can tell you from decades of drag racing that you just have to experiment to see what the car likes.
This, and you just don't magically drop from a 1.55 to a 1.3x. Sorry but that's a HUGE drop, not something that just happens with a dead hooking auto car.
Old 07-20-2014, 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by murphinator
to expand on what speedtigger is saying some stalled setups like to be preloaded a bit others will take the full flash from an idle and hook hard , I am making the assumption that the poster is taking advantage of his stall convertor but is preloading to around 1500 rpm at the tree and flashing the stall up to its rating from there.

Tires , suspension , suspension setup , front rear weight bias all come into play when trying to get a car to 60 foot .
This is correct. I wasn't launching the car at 1500rpm. 1500rpm is where I was holding it before stabbing the gas (flashing the converter). Sorry for any confusion.
Old 09-01-2014, 10:46 AM
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Any new times on the car?? I have a similar build coming up in Oct and was curious if you lowered the ET. I'm in the process of changing to 4.10s and a 28" tire before the car goes to Tick. Larry
Old 09-01-2014, 11:03 AM
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Those are some strong dyno numbers and track times for your mods and weight! Nice job!
Old 09-01-2014, 01:44 PM
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Yep, solid run man! You will def be close to 10s in some better weather.
Old 09-06-2014, 01:46 PM
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Congrats. Any pics?


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