First time in 12's... and went deep
09-10-2016, 04:04 PM
#1
First time in 12's... and went deep Here is where I started and the steps I took to get me where I'm at.
Stock 2000 A4 with Lid and MagnaFflo muffler only on street tires.
5-21-16 - best of 2 runs was 2.054 60', 8.819 1/8th@82.55mph and 13.6@101.78mph.
5-22-16 - Got the fever and the adventure began.
Over the next month and a half I added Hooker BH true duals, SE 1 7/8 LT's, poly mounts, LS6 intake, ported TB, SSRA, MSD wires and tune. Also back seat, jack and spare removal, adding SFC and street rear tires at 25psi. These upgrades gave me the following:
7-9-16 - 2.05 60', 8.516 1/8th@86.43mph and 13.096@106.55mph.
Added a SS3600 and Toyo TQ's. Fronts at 40psi and rears at 18psi gave me these times:
DA was between 2300 and 2100 during the times that I ran.
1st run (no vid): backed into the water, pulled forward and lit em up for 5-6 seconds. Staged and dead hooked.
1.701 60', 7.833@88.64mph 1/8th and 12.282@110.02mph
2nd run: backed into water and did an insufficient burnout. Staged and spun off the line. I know now when this happens, I might as well baby it to the finish.
2.088 60', 8.520@87.47mph 1/8th and 13.018@109.26mph
3rd run: (vid below) no water, just power braked it forward of the water. Rear went sliding to the left and left a lot to be desired. Still good enough to match my first run dead hooking again.
1.710 60', 7.831@88.75mph 1/8th and 12.278@110.10mph
https://www.youtube.com/attribution_...m-upload_owner
My mph seems slow. I haven't had the car retuned after I installed the stall (but the tune made provisions for the stall). Car was tuned after I upgraded the intake and exhaust, but this was dyno tuned and not street tuned. Would having the car street tuned help?
Don't get me wrong, I'm ticked with how the car performed last night. Car has 193K on it but very well taken car of.
Stock 2000 A4 with Lid and MagnaFflo muffler only on street tires.
5-21-16 - best of 2 runs was 2.054 60', 8.819 1/8th@82.55mph and 13.6@101.78mph.
5-22-16 - Got the fever and the adventure began.
Over the next month and a half I added Hooker BH true duals, SE 1 7/8 LT's, poly mounts, LS6 intake, ported TB, SSRA, MSD wires and tune. Also back seat, jack and spare removal, adding SFC and street rear tires at 25psi. These upgrades gave me the following:
7-9-16 - 2.05 60', 8.516 1/8th@86.43mph and 13.096@106.55mph.
Added a SS3600 and Toyo TQ's. Fronts at 40psi and rears at 18psi gave me these times:
DA was between 2300 and 2100 during the times that I ran.
1st run (no vid): backed into the water, pulled forward and lit em up for 5-6 seconds. Staged and dead hooked.
1.701 60', 7.833@88.64mph 1/8th and 12.282@110.02mph
2nd run: backed into water and did an insufficient burnout. Staged and spun off the line. I know now when this happens, I might as well baby it to the finish.
2.088 60', 8.520@87.47mph 1/8th and 13.018@109.26mph
3rd run: (vid below) no water, just power braked it forward of the water. Rear went sliding to the left and left a lot to be desired. Still good enough to match my first run dead hooking again.
1.710 60', 7.831@88.75mph 1/8th and 12.278@110.10mph
https://www.youtube.com/attribution_...m-upload_owner
My mph seems slow. I haven't had the car retuned after I installed the stall (but the tune made provisions for the stall). Car was tuned after I upgraded the intake and exhaust, but this was dyno tuned and not street tuned. Would having the car street tuned help?
Don't get me wrong, I'm ticked with how the car performed last night. Car has 193K on it but very well taken car of.
Last edited by rybern; 10-30-2016 at 08:43 PM.
09-10-2016, 04:15 PM
#4
TECH Junkie
Damn nice bud 
How ya liking that converter?
Your trap speeds are definitely in the ball park for your mods. You will likely gain 2 tenths and 2 mph if you can get a da around 0 later this year.
Imo those are damn good times in that air.
How ya liking that converter?
Your trap speeds are definitely in the ball park for your mods. You will likely gain 2 tenths and 2 mph if you can get a da around 0 later this year.
Imo those are damn good times in that air.
09-10-2016, 04:36 PM
#5
BIG thanks to all you guys who have steered me in the right direction. This is a great accomplishment to me.
According to the previous owner who bought it from the original owner(they are friends) the motor has 193K. Trans was replaced at 170K.
Converter is great and these track slips are like trophies. 
Not sure what's next beside a mild drop and new LCA bushings.
According to the previous owner who bought it from the original owner(they are friends) the motor has 193K. Trans was replaced at 170K.
Not sure what's next beside a mild drop and new LCA bushings.
09-10-2016, 04:41 PM
#6
TECH Junkie
I hear ya, I'm in the same boat with about the same setup as you and was going to spray next season but now I can't get a drag pack setup out of my head lol
09-10-2016, 06:46 PM
#7
LOL, I've have had countless folks suggesting spray. I've always been a bit concerned about hurting my motor when considering NOS... mainly due to old school stories I've heard back in the day. I was thinking about lighter weight wheels(especially front) on my way home last night. But I really like that my car looks stock. Drag pack does look pretty awesome though. What kind of gains could we expect? I won't be doing that any time soon. I just bought the Toyo TQ's and they did an exceptional job with a decent burnout with my modest power level.
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09-10-2016, 06:50 PM
#8
TECH Senior Member
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There's so much worry and misinformation about nitrous lol. I've ran it 3 years now on my Camaro, and 4 years on my Mustang, and never had a single problem. Done right it's just as safe as anything else that adds an extra 100-150 hp
09-10-2016, 06:51 PM
#9
TECH Junkie
LOL, I've have had countless folks suggesting spray. I've always been a bit concerned about hurting my motor when considering NOS... mainly due to old school stories I've heard back in the day. I was thinking about lighter weight wheels(especially front) on my way home last night. But I really like that my car looks stock. Drag pack does look pretty awesome though. What kind of gains could we expect? I won't be doing that any time soon. I just bought the Toyo TQ's and they did an exceptional job with a decent burnout with my modest power level.
My best is 12.2@111 mph, this fall I will be throwing on my buddies drag pack and am hoping for a 11.99999999999@112-113 mph lol
09-10-2016, 06:52 PM
#10
TECH Junkie
09-10-2016, 08:37 PM
#11
Wow, we are very close. Add your buddy's drag pack and remove your front sway bar and I bet you'll be there. Wouldn't spray be cheaper than drag pack? I'm not too fond of running gas I cannot buy at the pump.
09-10-2016, 08:57 PM
#12
TECH Junkie
That's comforting to read. I'll do a bit of research when/if I get the itch.
Wow, we are very close. Add your buddy's drag pack and remove your front sway bar and I bet you'll be there. Wouldn't spray be cheaper than drag pack? I'm not too fond of running gas I cannot buy at the pump.
Wow, we are very close. Add your buddy's drag pack and remove your front sway bar and I bet you'll be there. Wouldn't spray be cheaper than drag pack? I'm not too fond of running gas I cannot buy at the pump.
And in a stand alone you don't go threw a ton of race fuel. It is a gallon tank that you mount under your hood.
So you would still run 93 in your big tank then you would pull 120 octane from the stand alone tank instead of off the fuel rail which would also be 93.
The reason for a stand alone is the higher the octane the slower the burn rate in turn is a very good safety feature but not a necessary one in preventing detonation.
You would only use the high octane in the stand alone when you hit the GO FAST button.
09-10-2016, 09:08 PM
#13
Eventually I would do both, just can't decide which one first.
And in a stand alone you don't go threw a ton of race fuel. It is a gallon tank that you mount under your hood.
So you would still run 93 in your big tank then you would pull 120 octane from the stand alone tank instead of off the fuel rail which would also be 93.
The reason for a stand alone is the higher the octane the slower the burn rate in turn is a very good safety feature but not a necessary one in preventing detonation.
You would only use the high octane in the stand alone when you hit the GO FAST button.
And in a stand alone you don't go threw a ton of race fuel. It is a gallon tank that you mount under your hood.
So you would still run 93 in your big tank then you would pull 120 octane from the stand alone tank instead of off the fuel rail which would also be 93.
The reason for a stand alone is the higher the octane the slower the burn rate in turn is a very good safety feature but not a necessary one in preventing detonation.
You would only use the high octane in the stand alone when you hit the GO FAST button.
10-22-2016, 08:54 PM
#14
OK, since I've posted on this thread, I have lowered the car by cutting 1 coil off stock springs, LCA's & relos. I've gone to the strip since then and ran a 12.23 @110.5 with a 1.701 60'. So lowering combined with LCA's didn't seem to hurt me.
Today I purchased a drag pack($500 seemed like a bargain) which will reduce my front wheel wight by 50lbs and rear wheel weight by 16lbs. Rear tires are 275x50-15 555r. I also plan to remove the front sway bar. Is it realistic that this will get me in the 11's? Weather is cooler too and DA is nearly 1000 points lower now, so that alone may get me close.
Today I purchased a drag pack($500 seemed like a bargain) which will reduce my front wheel wight by 50lbs and rear wheel weight by 16lbs. Rear tires are 275x50-15 555r. I also plan to remove the front sway bar. Is it realistic that this will get me in the 11's? Weather is cooler too and DA is nearly 1000 points lower now, so that alone may get me close.
Last edited by rybern; 10-23-2016 at 08:30 PM.
10-23-2016, 11:36 AM
#15
10 Second Club
I'd say you have a pretty realistic shot at it. Lower weight all around, better weight transfer, and lower rolling resistance are all better. I personally never had any luck with the 555r's, but then again it was on a manual car.
10-23-2016, 06:52 PM
#16
Here is where I started and the steps I took to get me where I'm at.
Stock 2000 A4 with Lid and MagnaFflo muffler only on street tires.
5-21-16 - best of 2 runs was 2.054 60', 8.819 1/8th@82.55mph and 13.6@101.78mph.
5-22-16 - Got the fever and the adventure began.
Over the next month and a half I added Hooker BH true duals, SE 1 7/8 LT's, poly mounts, LS6 intake, ported TB, SSRA, MSD wires and tune. Street tires at 25lbs. These upgrades gave me the following:
7-9-16 - 2.05 60', 8.516 1/8th@86.43mph and 13.096@106.55mph.
Current setup included the above in addition to back seat, jack and spare removal, adding SFC, SS3600 and Toyo TQ's. Fronts at 40psi and rears at 18psi
DA was between 2300 and 2100 during the times that I ran.
1st run (no vid): backed into the water, pulled forward and lit em up for 5-6 seconds. Staged and dead hooked.
1.701 60', 7.833@88.64mph 1/8th and 12.282@110.02mph
2nd run: backed into water and did an insufficient burnout. Staged and spun off the line. I know now when this happens, I might as well baby it to the finish.
2.088 60', 8.520@87.47mph 1/8th and 13.018@109.26mph
3rd run: (vid below) no water, just power braked it forward of the water. Rear went sliding to the left and left a lot to be desired. Still good enough to match my first run dead hooking again.
1.710 60', 7.831@88.75mph 1/8th and 12.278@110.10mph
https://www.youtube.com/attribution_...m-upload_owner
My mph seems slow. I haven't had the car retuned after I installed the stall (but the tune made provisions for the stall). Car was tuned after I upgraded the intake and exhaust, but this was dyno tuned and not street tuned. Would having the car street tuned help?
Don't get me wrong, I'm ticked with how the car performed last night. Car has 193K on it but very well taken car of.
Stock 2000 A4 with Lid and MagnaFflo muffler only on street tires.
5-21-16 - best of 2 runs was 2.054 60', 8.819 1/8th@82.55mph and 13.6@101.78mph.
5-22-16 - Got the fever and the adventure began.
Over the next month and a half I added Hooker BH true duals, SE 1 7/8 LT's, poly mounts, LS6 intake, ported TB, SSRA, MSD wires and tune. Street tires at 25lbs. These upgrades gave me the following:
7-9-16 - 2.05 60', 8.516 1/8th@86.43mph and 13.096@106.55mph.
Current setup included the above in addition to back seat, jack and spare removal, adding SFC, SS3600 and Toyo TQ's. Fronts at 40psi and rears at 18psi
DA was between 2300 and 2100 during the times that I ran.
1st run (no vid): backed into the water, pulled forward and lit em up for 5-6 seconds. Staged and dead hooked.
1.701 60', 7.833@88.64mph 1/8th and 12.282@110.02mph
2nd run: backed into water and did an insufficient burnout. Staged and spun off the line. I know now when this happens, I might as well baby it to the finish.
2.088 60', 8.520@87.47mph 1/8th and 13.018@109.26mph
3rd run: (vid below) no water, just power braked it forward of the water. Rear went sliding to the left and left a lot to be desired. Still good enough to match my first run dead hooking again.
1.710 60', 7.831@88.75mph 1/8th and 12.278@110.10mph
https://www.youtube.com/attribution_...m-upload_owner
My mph seems slow. I haven't had the car retuned after I installed the stall (but the tune made provisions for the stall). Car was tuned after I upgraded the intake and exhaust, but this was dyno tuned and not street tuned. Would having the car street tuned help?
Don't get me wrong, I'm ticked with how the car performed last night. Car has 193K on it but very well taken car of.
This should be a sticky somewhere for someone planning progressive performance mods.
