BLK-BRD T/A

Z28tek

I am guessing your obviously using a drag setup for those times, so no need for a nice drag tire setup I presume.
What suspension mods do you have?

Two ways to add speed according to the laws of physics, since you don't want to add power you could remove weight.

HioSSilver

iTrader: (8)

What's your car have for set up now?

HCI2000SS

iTrader: (2)

With a 1.8-1.9 60ft you need a stickier tire

BLK-BRD T/A

Puck

iTrader: (17)

Too many variables to answer without knowing a lot more about how you are launching and what the car is doing. We don't even know if it is a manual or auto, although by the high 60' I am guessing manual. Stock gears? What tire are you running and at what psi? Is it bogging off the line or lighting up the tires? Off the top of my head no issue with traction w/ the DRs but still a high 60' could mean not enough power, not enough gear, or too low of a launch RPM.

Lowering a car is not good for its 60', but you have a lot of room for improvement still.

HioSSilver

iTrader: (8)

I mean **** dude....what's your mods? What's your car?

no one can answer this random question w/o knowing what you have goin on there.

BLK-BRD T/A

2000 Trans Am
Engine- cam, ls6 intake, headers, and tune
trans- 2600 stall converter and shift kit (probably need a higher stall)
Suspension- lower control arms, relocation brackets, lowered 1.5 in (bought it like that), air bags in rear springs @20 psi
3.73 gears
26x11 drag radials @25 psi

I can’t get the rpms over 2200 without rolling through the lights so I figure that probably an issue. It never really bogs down though it just takes off. Doesn’t spin or anything.
If you have any specific questions that may help let me know.

transamtom

iTrader: (8)

A 3600 will wake it up you also need an aftermarket adjustable torque arm.

Some drag springs and shocks will get the nose rising and the *** planted.

Have you removed the front sway bar yet?

BLK-BRD T/A

HioSSilver

iTrader: (8)

Sounds like a stall problem at this point. Because a auto fcar needs no mods to the suspension to get to 1.7 or better 60s.

98CayenneT/A

true story, 1.56 60's here on stock suspension.

What cam?
What shift points?
I would look at something more like a yank pt4000.
A yank pt4000 would put you well into the 11's.
maybe around 11.6

Chris25

iTrader: (1)

Id throw either a yank or circle d 4k in it Also id replace the factory flimsy TQ arm.

HioSSilver

iTrader: (8)

A decent upgrade for auto cars is to find a factory m6 tq arm. The m6 tq arm is reinforced.

gesto

Call Yank, FTI or Circle D (I'm sure there are other good places) and have them spec a converter for you. Have your dyno sheet and cam specs with you when you call. BTW, I'm planning on being out at RPR tomorrow night in my red GTO.

murphinator

iTrader: (2)

I agree it needs more convertor , but in the meantime you mentioned something about your approach that you can change and likely get better 60 foots... you said you cant get it over 2200 rpm without pushing the brakes , I have always gotten better et's by flashing the convertor up from idle , it will usually stall up higher that way which especially with a cam is going to be helpful and it also hooks better due to the abrupt transfer of weight vs. preloading the suspension . As mentioned removing the front sway will also help it to transfer weight and I even added weight in the trunk when I took my stalled auto to the track (street nights have terrible prep)

Roarin_8

iTrader: (5)

In case he doesn't know what that means, can you explain? I've always gotten better ET's preloading the suspension.