lt1 head gasket.
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From: _Nor caL_ (Bay areA)
lt1 head gasket. What is the dificulty level? I've done heads and cam swap on an ls1. But ls1s are a lot easier to work on. Is there any special tools I would need. Or heads up? I'm thinking about tackling it myself and saving some cash. Anybody have a good write up? Any and all help Is greatly appreciated.
It's not hard. About the only specialty tool you need is a set of fuel line disconnects.
Disconnect the fuel lines, remove the intake/intake manifold, disconnect all of the electrical connections and lay the harness out of the way, pull off the valve covers, rocker arms, pushrods, disconnect the exhaust/headers, plug wires, remove the rear crossover coolant line (or cut it), remove the 17 head bolts, and pop off the heads. The removal is very straightforward and easy.
Once they are off, have them checked for straightness and milled if need be.
Installation is a bit trickier. This page will be invaluable: http://shbox.com/1/how_tos.html
Disconnect the fuel lines, remove the intake/intake manifold, disconnect all of the electrical connections and lay the harness out of the way, pull off the valve covers, rocker arms, pushrods, disconnect the exhaust/headers, plug wires, remove the rear crossover coolant line (or cut it), remove the 17 head bolts, and pop off the heads. The removal is very straightforward and easy.
Once they are off, have them checked for straightness and milled if need be.
Installation is a bit trickier. This page will be invaluable: http://shbox.com/1/how_tos.html
It's more for figuring out where stuff goes, and how to set the valve lash once you have the heads back on. But there is TONS of info you can gather by searching this forum.
Probably wouldn't hurt to pick up a $20 Haynes manual while you're at it.
Probably wouldn't hurt to pick up a $20 Haynes manual while you're at it.
There are two bolts behind the steering pump that will have to come off that bolt into the pass. side head. You remove the steering pump by aligning the opening in the pulley. One of the bolts which goes into the head is deep in the accessory bracket and the best way to get it is using an offset 9/16" wrench.
Everything else is straight forward. If it has LT headers you can get away w/ keeping the drivers side header where it is to reach all head bolts, however the passenger header will most likely have to be removed. Because the heater boxes in these cars are getting old and brittle you will want to remove the engine mount bolt on the passenger side, jack up the motor to get sufficient clearance to remove the header. This can prove quite difficult if the engine has a Canton or any wider-than-stock oil pan.
Drain the block if possible or you'll have a real mess on your hands when taking head bolts out.
Don't forcefully pry the heads off the block. Wiggle them. If they don't come out most likely there is still a bolt fastened. Just remember the head bolts are different sizes. Very easy to remember though... the two med. length ones go on the outsides of the middle row. Longest go on top and middle row. Shortest go on bottom row.
You only have to keep track of three studs for the manifold- The longest stud is for the alt. brace. Any other stud can be used for both EGR solenoid (if so equipped) and coolant return pipe on pass. side.
Everything else is straight forward. If it has LT headers you can get away w/ keeping the drivers side header where it is to reach all head bolts, however the passenger header will most likely have to be removed. Because the heater boxes in these cars are getting old and brittle you will want to remove the engine mount bolt on the passenger side, jack up the motor to get sufficient clearance to remove the header. This can prove quite difficult if the engine has a Canton or any wider-than-stock oil pan.
Drain the block if possible or you'll have a real mess on your hands when taking head bolts out.
Don't forcefully pry the heads off the block. Wiggle them. If they don't come out most likely there is still a bolt fastened. Just remember the head bolts are different sizes. Very easy to remember though... the two med. length ones go on the outsides of the middle row. Longest go on top and middle row. Shortest go on bottom row.
You only have to keep track of three studs for the manifold- The longest stud is for the alt. brace. Any other stud can be used for both EGR solenoid (if so equipped) and coolant return pipe on pass. side.
Last edited by SS RRR; Jan 4, 2011 at 05:40 AM.
