PATC now says they sent me the wrong crossmember. Not so Painless LY6 harness won't hook up to my alternator or map sensor. They say they'll resolve it. I guess I won't be running the oil cooler. I am going to try a vette block of plate because it has a mount for an oil pressure sender. I hope 5.5 quarts is really enough. Oh, and I crushed my transmission dip stick tube while dropping the motor in. Gm never offered a 4L80e in a car, but Bentley did! I think I need a Bentley transmission dip stick.

All things considered, I don't have to much to complain about. I'll get these worked out.

 

About three inches between the booster and valve cover and the closest the center link gets to the pan is about and inch at lock. I'll try to get pics. The pan fits very nicely and is flush with the subframe crossmember at the bottom. If you are mounting your engine forward, you should be adding clearance here. I hope with all that baffling, it can properly feed the motor with 5.5 quarts.

 

I think 5qts. should get it done. I don't think the factory 1998-2002 Camaros held but 5-5.5qts and they are still running to this day. No worries! As far as a dip stick is concerned, have you considered a Lokar. Speedway Motors sells them at a reasonable price. Might even be cheaper than a Bentley dip stick.

 

Thank you for checking into that! I am going 1" up and 1/4" forward from where you have yours. Hopefully it works out.

The 5.5 quarts isn't phenominal, but being able to reuse the full windage tray and have the baffling in the sump makes up for it in my opinion. You can add an Accusump if you want added protection. That combination seems to be the next best thing to a dry sump system for road course / autocross.

 

Passenger side, full lock:



Drivers side full lock. There is an inch at the closest:



It looks like the motor can come straight up and almost miss the booster entirely.

 

Cut that tab off of the steering column. I see you had an issue like I did. I did the same thing and beat it back. I went ahead after I pulled the engine back out to cut it off flush. You will be up and away before long, great job!

 

Yeah, I figured I would have to remove the header or engine to remove the tab. It's hard to beleive the car survived 42 years, never had a column shift with noone cutting it off. I think I'm just going to leave it, but the oil cooler is gone.

 

Only the 2 long ones work. The shorter ones are way to long to be truck manifold bolts. What gives? These are what shipped with my used LS3 manifold.



I know everyone's seen this a million times, but I think it's going to look worse with the sheetmetal back on.

 

Do the header clear power steering?are u using autokraft adapter plates??

 

What are you talking about, that's a thing of beauty! Everything looks great. Thank you for taking the detailed pictures of clearances. What's next?

 

Dynatech header, autokraft pan, autokraft plate, yes they clear.

 

No problem. I appreciate your help too. Next will be fuel system and accesories. I am sorry to report that I will be using quik brackets if they work. I considered your argument about the ac loading up the other acc's but I think I'll just turn it off when I hammer it. Plus that's a used underdrive pulley I picked up. 'hope I don't have problems with that little thing.

 

[QUOTE=futureuser;14480540]Only the 2 long ones work. The shorter ones are way to long to be truck manifold bolts. What gives? These are what shipped with my used LS3 manifold.



I thought you had the intake bolted down. I am not sure but the two back bolts on the intake I believe were longer to make up for the black brackets to cover the fuel rails. So what you are saying is the other bolts are too short to fit your LS3 intake? What about the truck manifold? I am a little confused, not hard to do.

 

I am puzzled as well. I think I did something wrong. The long bolts are holding the manifold in place. The short bolts don't quite thread into the cylinder head. They seem to be about a quarter inch too short. What I was thinking was that the sellor shipped the wrong bolts, like maybe ls2 bolts. They are still way too long to be truck manifold bolts. It doesn't make sense. Maybe the metal inserts backed out of the manifold a bit and I need to press them back in.

 

Look at my thread and there are some pics of the LS3 intake bolted down. Maybe that will help, maybe it wont. If there is something I can do to help you out let me know.

 

I had to get bolts for my ls3 intake manifold and they are supposed to be 114mm long. How long are yours? Pretty sure all 10 bolts are the same length also.

 

Make sure your throttle body isn't contacting the water pump outlet before you torque things down. Also check that nothing on the valley cover is contact the underside of the manifold. Does it look like the intake is fully seated on the heads? I don't recall the bolts on mine being different lengths, but I can check if you need me to.

My primary reason for the low mount compressor was to clean things up. I just don't like the look of the high mount stuff. The dedicated belt is an added bonus of the arrangement I'm going for, but loook at all the other compromises I'm making to get that to happen: my engine is a planned 1" higher, 1/4" further forward and I have to notch the frame. That's a lot of work and compromise just to make things look pretty! I haven't heard too many reports of belt squeel with the Kwik setup so really I think you're making a good choice. I see from the hole in your firewall that yours isn't a factory a/c car. Are you adding an aftermarket system?

 

Great build keep on the good work !!
Is the LS3 intake taller than the LS1 ??
I`m getting ready to swap in my LY6 with LS3 intake into my ******, and height is crucial.
Any info ??

 

It turns out that 8 of the 10 bolts shipped with my ls3 intake are just a little too short and incorrect. I am just guessing they came off an ls1 or something else. I am not sure if I am going to have to grind my water pump with my ly6 throttle body, it is very close.

Vintage ac is on the way. I know this is supposed to be a cheap build, but I have realized that to do it right, it's really not that cheap. So what's a little extra for a/c to make the car more usable year round.

Let's see

1150 donor van including tow
300 ls3 intake
316 spectra tank
287 quik
400 pan
430 headers
150 fuel system
175 adaptor plates/mounts
260 cross member with mods
150 used underdrive pulley
90 dipsticks
150 shift works shifter mod
1500 harness, ecm, tcm, pedal, maf (this should only have been 400 since I had the parts, but they were stolen)
200 set of ls2 coil packs, valvecover
125 throwing money away shipping crap back and forth I don't need, breaking tranny dipstick
still need to buy battery relcation kit, fans, cold air intake stuff, maybe a radiator


options:
1600 total new front end, steering and suspension
300 new brakes/master
1400 vintage ac w/ quick ac bracket
736 dakota digital gauges (the new analogue style)
Vengeance racing upgrades incl. chassis tune $2300


-2000 sales of old motor/trans and van/parts

I expect to be in it about 10 grand when I'm done, but it will basically be a new rusty car.

Update:

I got the crossmember in and bolted. PATC initially sent me the wrong crossmember. I got the new one today and it was much closer, but still not quite. I reversed the frame mount brackets redrilled the frame mounts and elongated all of the bolt holes. Here it's bolted in and since the dynatech longtubes hang pretty low, there is no clearance issue with the crossmember.

 

I really don't know for sure, but the ls3 intake is way shorter than the ly6. Good luck with ******!