LM4 T56 Powered 2001 Miata Frankenstein
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
had to cut the f body pan even more with this subframe but engine fits nicely now.
some progress on both of our cars (buddy's Subaru)
Also Axle shafts have arrived from Moser. will assemble this weekend and install the Diff. should be interesting as we had to take all the measurements and I am really hoping this fits!!!!.
some progress on both of our cars (buddy's Subaru)
Also Axle shafts have arrived from Moser. will assemble this weekend and install the Diff. should be interesting as we had to take all the measurements and I am really hoping this fits!!!!.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
some progress on the rear end.
axles are assembled and diff placed under the car. Mounting is not permanent but 90% completed. This will only need 2 tabs to hold the diff in place and one mounting point in the front.
turned out to be better than I thought.
axles are assembled and diff placed under the car. Mounting is not permanent but 90% completed. This will only need 2 tabs to hold the diff in place and one mounting point in the front.
turned out to be better than I thought.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
Finally the Diff is in place.
All needed is the nose mounting to be welded up once transmission goes in and all is aligned.
Anybody know what bolts to use on the rear mounting???? The stock ones are too long as they bolt through the CTS subframe.
i just took some long rods for fitment now and put nuts on each end to hold in place until bolts sourced.
Pics Added.
All needed is the nose mounting to be welded up once transmission goes in and all is aligned.
Anybody know what bolts to use on the rear mounting???? The stock ones are too long as they bolt through the CTS subframe.
i just took some long rods for fitment now and put nuts on each end to hold in place until bolts sourced.
Pics Added.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
got some progress done this weekend.
motor mounting mockup complete just needs final welding.
clearances look good so far we'll see how it all fits once transmission is in.
took some pictures of top view from both sides, without mounts and with mounts.
motor mounting mockup complete just needs final welding.
clearances look good so far we'll see how it all fits once transmission is in.
took some pictures of top view from both sides, without mounts and with mounts.
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Staging Lane
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
Some Progress this weekend.
motor fits
Transmission fits
all mounts finished, had to pull it to weld tunnel and finish painting the engine bay.
By the way, this is a Mustang T56 shifter modified to fit my build.
I am not 100% sure how the mounting will work as I am debating to mount on tunnel or to cut tunnel and mount on transmission which will be ideal.
Anybody foresee mounting on tunnel issues?
left on the list:
Fuel,
clutch lines,
Front Accessories
Wiring
cooling
Motor build,- heads, cam, springs.....
Enjoy the pics
motor fits
Transmission fits
all mounts finished, had to pull it to weld tunnel and finish painting the engine bay.
By the way, this is a Mustang T56 shifter modified to fit my build.
I am not 100% sure how the mounting will work as I am debating to mount on tunnel or to cut tunnel and mount on transmission which will be ideal.
Anybody foresee mounting on tunnel issues?
left on the list:
Fuel,
clutch lines,
Front Accessories
Wiring
cooling
Motor build,- heads, cam, springs.....
Enjoy the pics
Launching!
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 205
Likes: 2
From: Mobile, Alabama
Looks really good! I might go with solid trans and motor mounts or some torque limiting straps because the shifter mounted to the floor pan could bind if the drive train moves/flexes differently than the floor. When you get on it hard the engine/trans could torque over.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
some more work done.
after consulting with my like minded friend, decided to make shifter mount rather than mount it on the tunnel. The purpose of this project is reliability and I started to cut corners which would have failed sooner or later.
Oil Pan welded up (not me this time)
Transmission mount pic
shifter mounting on the CTS-V trans.
clutch line made.
Anybody has a good cheap source for remote clutch bleeder line?
after consulting with my like minded friend, decided to make shifter mount rather than mount it on the tunnel. The purpose of this project is reliability and I started to cut corners which would have failed sooner or later.
Oil Pan welded up (not me this time)
Transmission mount pic
shifter mounting on the CTS-V trans.
clutch line made.
Anybody has a good cheap source for remote clutch bleeder line?
Launching!
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 205
Likes: 2
From: Mobile, Alabama
Wow, the welding on the pan looks great. A vendor here TICK sells a remote bleeder. I was looking to build my own, using this https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...rs-inside.html
but found it more expensive than one from Speedway Motors @ $29.00
Search Speedway for a T56 Release Bearing Bleeder. Maybe someone else has found a better one.
but found it more expensive than one from Speedway Motors @ $29.00
Search Speedway for a T56 Release Bearing Bleeder. Maybe someone else has found a better one.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
Wow, the welding on the pan looks great. A vendor here TICK sells a remote bleeder. I was looking to build my own, using this https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...rs-inside.html
but found it more expensive than one from Speedway Motors @ $29.00
Search Speedway for a T56 Release Bearing Bleeder. Maybe someone else has found a better one.
but found it more expensive than one from Speedway Motors @ $29.00
Search Speedway for a T56 Release Bearing Bleeder. Maybe someone else has found a better one.
The item number for anybody needing one is 5151399-36 from speedway
Got the longest one they sell, put the bleeder in the cabin lol
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
Decided to man up and put some real pistons in.
Going for the 1200 foot ponds of torque at 1500 RPM.
Thought I might share these as the size is pretty impressive.
For anybody that is wondering it is the Cummins N14. Old man had to change out the sleeves and do some TLC on Head #1.
Got the engine Bay finished and painted up.
One outstanding question is..... I need to drill out the dip stick hole. any suggestions on bit size? angle? another thought is that I am considering running of the sensor in the oil pan and wiring a simple on off light if oil ever gets low.....
This would not be a reliable solution.
Going for the 1200 foot ponds of torque at 1500 RPM.
Thought I might share these as the size is pretty impressive.
For anybody that is wondering it is the Cummins N14. Old man had to change out the sleeves and do some TLC on Head #1.
Got the engine Bay finished and painted up.
One outstanding question is..... I need to drill out the dip stick hole. any suggestions on bit size? angle? another thought is that I am considering running of the sensor in the oil pan and wiring a simple on off light if oil ever gets low.....
This would not be a reliable solution.
I applaud the work and the speed you are getting it done at. My swap was with the entire Boss Frog kit and it went together very well. I have had ZERO issues with the car since I put it on the road last April.
Mine is a stock '98 LS-1, F-body T-56, Cobra 8.8 IRS. The rear diff gave me fits with the exhaust but I will rework it soon. You may want to extend the rack side of the steering coupler an inch or so to get around the headers. Makes a clear shot to the colom.
As for electronics.... I used a painless harness and had I known how easy it made the swap I never would have cut a single wire from the Miata, just bundled what I wasnt using until later. Painless has you connect one wire to the starter, one to the block and one to a hot in on/start of the fuse block and the car runs.
I used Speedhut gauges for the tach and speedo because they were easier and cheeper than running a converter box or adapting F-body stuff. The speedo is GPS driven and aquires a satallite within 2 seconds of ignition.
You are going to have a blast with this car! 0-60 is 4.80 seconds in 280.3 feet. Quarter with bauld tires and a rough tune in the computer was 13.4@109 (GPS speedo for both, it has the functions) but now that the ECU has a good flash and I have 205/50/15 R1R's it should come down on both counts.
Mine is a stock '98 LS-1, F-body T-56, Cobra 8.8 IRS. The rear diff gave me fits with the exhaust but I will rework it soon. You may want to extend the rack side of the steering coupler an inch or so to get around the headers. Makes a clear shot to the colom.
As for electronics.... I used a painless harness and had I known how easy it made the swap I never would have cut a single wire from the Miata, just bundled what I wasnt using until later. Painless has you connect one wire to the starter, one to the block and one to a hot in on/start of the fuse block and the car runs.
I used Speedhut gauges for the tach and speedo because they were easier and cheeper than running a converter box or adapting F-body stuff. The speedo is GPS driven and aquires a satallite within 2 seconds of ignition.
You are going to have a blast with this car! 0-60 is 4.80 seconds in 280.3 feet. Quarter with bauld tires and a rough tune in the computer was 13.4@109 (GPS speedo for both, it has the functions) but now that the ECU has a good flash and I have 205/50/15 R1R's it should come down on both counts.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
Appreciate the support.
My buddy is good with electronics and hope he will get the wiring squared out.
Hope to provide a good write up for others thinking about doing the swap.
Got any pics of your build?
My buddy is good with electronics and hope he will get the wiring squared out.
Hope to provide a good write up for others thinking about doing the swap.
Got any pics of your build?
I applaud the work and the speed you are getting it done at. My swap was with the entire Boss Frog kit and it went together very well. I have had ZERO issues with the car since I put it on the road last April.
Mine is a stock '98 LS-1, F-body T-56, Cobra 8.8 IRS. The rear diff gave me fits with the exhaust but I will rework it soon. You may want to extend the rack side of the steering coupler an inch or so to get around the headers. Makes a clear shot to the colom.
As for electronics.... I used a painless harness and had I known how easy it made the swap I never would have cut a single wire from the Miata, just bundled what I wasnt using until later. Painless has you connect one wire to the starter, one to the block and one to a hot in on/start of the fuse block and the car runs.
I used Speedhut gauges for the tach and speedo because they were easier and cheeper than running a converter box or adapting F-body stuff. The speedo is GPS driven and aquires a satallite within 2 seconds of ignition.
You are going to have a blast with this car! 0-60 is 4.80 seconds in 280.3 feet. Quarter with bauld tires and a rough tune in the computer was 13.4@109 (GPS speedo for both, it has the functions) but now that the ECU has a good flash and I have 205/50/15 R1R's it should come down on both counts.
Mine is a stock '98 LS-1, F-body T-56, Cobra 8.8 IRS. The rear diff gave me fits with the exhaust but I will rework it soon. You may want to extend the rack side of the steering coupler an inch or so to get around the headers. Makes a clear shot to the colom.
As for electronics.... I used a painless harness and had I known how easy it made the swap I never would have cut a single wire from the Miata, just bundled what I wasnt using until later. Painless has you connect one wire to the starter, one to the block and one to a hot in on/start of the fuse block and the car runs.
I used Speedhut gauges for the tach and speedo because they were easier and cheeper than running a converter box or adapting F-body stuff. The speedo is GPS driven and aquires a satallite within 2 seconds of ignition.
You are going to have a blast with this car! 0-60 is 4.80 seconds in 280.3 feet. Quarter with bauld tires and a rough tune in the computer was 13.4@109 (GPS speedo for both, it has the functions) but now that the ECU has a good flash and I have 205/50/15 R1R's it should come down on both counts.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
Almost there Winter is coming and I am scrambling to get it done.
here are some update:
Engine and Transmission are finally in permanently. No more removal
Dipstick hole drilled
the mystery is going to be in the push rod length. I had them calculate best i could with the measuring tool. once they arrived, and I installed them, I can feel a little slack. in other words, I can fit a .022mm feeler gauge between rocker and top of valve. how much of a problem will this be? I am planning on starting it and than ordering new push rod if needed.
here are some update:
Engine and Transmission are finally in permanently. No more removal
Dipstick hole drilled
the mystery is going to be in the push rod length. I had them calculate best i could with the measuring tool. once they arrived, and I installed them, I can feel a little slack. in other words, I can fit a .022mm feeler gauge between rocker and top of valve. how much of a problem will this be? I am planning on starting it and than ordering new push rod if needed.