General Description

The small ventilation hole in the driver’s-side windshield pillar molding is the perfect spot for a Raptor shift light. This location provides excellent visibility while preserving convenient access to the RPM switches. The little round grille pops out. I found a large rubber grommet at a local hardware store that fit both the hole and the Raptor. To make room for the Raptor, you need to cut away a bit of plastic tube behind the vent hole. The tube is accessible from below if the adjustable ventilation grille is removed. You then need to connect three wires. I prefer soldered connections to crimped connections.

Engine Speed Signal from PCM C2 (Red) pin 10

I didn’t want to tamper with the PCM connector so I looked for a downstream point to connect to the Engine Speed signal. The ultimate destination of this signal is not the tachometer, but rather the Automatic Brake System on cars with Traction Control. I discovered that the Engine Speed Signal from the PCM is not present at EBCM C1-11 on cars such as mine without Traction Control. It is present however, at C105 which is the middle connector in a group of three above the passenger-side wheel well. The wire can be cut from pin G of connector 105 and extended through the firewall grommet beneath the PCM into “Raptor Junction”, the space behind the radio. Be aware that there are two white wires at connector C105 and make sure that you identify the correct one. The Engine Speed signal from C105-G is spliced to the Raptor’s green wire.

(Switched) Power and (PCM) Ground

Power and ground for the Raptor can come from the unused (in non-TCS cars) Traction Control Switch. I cut off the TCS switch connector and spliced the pink switched power wire to the Raptor’s red wire. Similarly, the switch’s black/white ground wire is spliced to the Raptor’s black wire.

The above connection points are shown in the schematic on page 5-114 of the 2002 Camaro/Firebird Service Manual.

Because the LS1 PCM generates a two-pulse-per-revolution Engine Speed signal, the Raptor configuration switch needs to be set to four cylinder mode.


Step by Step Instructions:

1) Disconnect the Battery.
2) Remove the PCM and its mounting tray.
3) Remove the glove compartment door.
4) Remove the passenger-side door (hinge pillar) molding.
5) Remove (unsnap) the accessory trim bezel at the center of the instrument panel.
6) Remove the radio. (the Raptor wiring junction will be behind the radio)
7) Remove the adjustable ventilation grille below the driver-side windshield pillar.
8) Install and connect your Raptor following the general description above.
9) Reinstall the radio.
10) Reinstall the PCM.
11) Reconnect the battery and test your Raptor.
12) Reinstall panels and trim.

 

Excellent write up. Sticky worthy I think.

 

Excellent write up!!!

I don't have TCS. It would've been cool to use the open port in the opposite end of the C105 connector. We ended up splicing it in solid.

The TCS wires worked great!!!

 

Does this cause problems with your defogger?
Windows fog up more when it rains?

 

could you mount it and still put the defrost grille back in?

 

Where did you get the raptor shiftlight and how much???

 

I got it from Raptor, but I found out Speed Inc sells it for the same price, but it includes shipping.

The window, might fog up in the rain. I try not to drive my car in the rain so it should be minimal inconvenience.

I used a champagne cork and clean shop rag and pluged the hole for the vent and left it intact behind the dash.

 

I have a proform adjustable shiftlight, do I need to set it to 4 cylinder mode as well?

 

I think so.

 

Install write-up worked great!

Thanks!!!

 

yes...

 

Bump from the grave.

I am completing the raptor shift light install on my 2001 Trans Am and I wanted to include some differences and tidbits I learned in the process.

1) It is best to start by removing the windshield A-pillar inner molding when installing this shift light. You do this quite simply by removing the T-tops to reveal 2 phillips head screws. Then grab the a-pillar molding approximately mid-body and pull inward (towards the center of the car, not downward) to release the spring tension clip. Then once this releases you simply slide the molding up along the a-pillar about an inch or two so that the base comes loose from where it connects to the dashboard. Re-installation is the reverse, except I recommend pinching the base slightly with one hand as you slide it down over the a-pillar in order to help it seat into it's groove at the base of the dashboard.

2) Once this is out you can install your shift light with hardware store rubber grommet as usual into the defrost vent hole. The vent tubing can simply be tucked down into the dashboard opening now that the A-pillar molding is removed, and does not need to be cutup as was suggested by OP. There is also no need to remove the adjustable ventilation grille, which I find are quite fragile on these 20 year old cars.

3) Next remove the fuse box cover in the door jam and fish the shift light wires down through there.

4) Then remove the drivers-side under-dash panel (the one below the steering wheel where your trunk release button is mounted), it is held in by 2 phillips screws and 2 7mm bolts. You will want to fish the wiring from the fuse box opening you just pulled it through down to the now open space revealed by removing this panel. I did this by getting a wire coat hanger which I cut open into a long wire with a tight hook on the end. I fished the coat hanger up to the fuse box opening from below and secured the shift light wires to the coat hanger and pulled them through. The wires will end up tucking in behind the fuse box.

5) For Pontiacs the traction control switch is located down just ahead of the shifter on the center console, therefore "Raptor Junction" does not apply to us, so don't pull your radio. If you do not have traction control (as was the case for me) you will have a handy little storage compartment for loose change instead. There you will find the wiring connector for the traction control tucked behind this little storage compartment, unused and waiting for you. Easiest way to find this wiring connector is to crawl down under the dash and put your head where the gas pedal is and look towards the back of the little storage compartment with a good flashlight. You should hopefully be able to see the connector, mine was taped up to some other wires tucked up next to the back-drivers-side wall of the little storage compartment. I had to reach in there using my coat hanger to pull the wires closer to me, then cut the little piece of white tape that was securing the traction control connector with a razor blade. This allowed me to pull it out from behind the center console. There isn't much slack, but there is enough.

6) I also used C105 to tap into the engine speed signal found under the hood, located on top of the passenger side wheel well. I pulled my PCM completely out to give me room to fish the wire through the rubber grommet found below the PCM and into the passenger side under-dash cabin area. Install-university describes this fairly well in their Mathew Harlan's shift light install guide. You'll have to remove the plastic tray located below your glove box in order to see where the wire comes through the rubber grommet. Again, the coat hanger is your friend here. I then used the coat hanger again to fish the engine speed wire from the passenger side footwell over to the driver side. My Pontiac "raptor junction" if you will, is located right there where I dug out the traction control switch from behind the center/shifter console.

I put this all down into one location, as I had to piece this together from various sources. It was helpful googling images of connectors so I could more easily identify them myself on my car and feel confident in what I was doing.

Good luck and happy modding.